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Hi Ken,
Were you able to adjust the vent windows to close the gap to the windshield frame per your previous thread? If your door panel is still off and you remove the metal access panel, you should be able to see inside the door and get a good look at the rear channel. As I mentioned in your other thread, I had to shim one of my rear channels with a couple washers to tweak the angle in order to snug the door glass in the track. If I remember correctly, there are two screws that secure the rear channel which are accessible from the side of the door. I think you just remove those screws and carefully lift the channel out of the door. The bottom of the glass should be glued/taped to the regulator track, so there shouldn't be any issue keeping the glass in while you replace the felt and then reinstall the track. You can probably do the job alone, but it would be wise to have a helper in case you need to roll the window up or down while removing and reinstalling the rear track.
I did adjust the vent window on the drivers side and I was able to remove the rear channel. I replaced the felt and reinstalled it and all is well. I decided to remove the passenger door rear channel and that one does not want to come out. Today I will try loosening the vent window assembly and see if I can move the window enough to get the channel out.
Ken,
Before you mess with the passenger door vent window, did you try rolling the window all the way or part way up (closed)? That would release pressure from the track since most of the glass would be above it. Try that first if you haven't already.
Roger
I just noticed the picture of your vette. It looks like mine, red, black interior, side pipes, knock off wheels, whitewalls.
Looks great.
I wouldn't change a thing if it was ordered new! I'm going to head out soon for a morning cruise and then get back in time for NFL football. It should be a perfect Sunday!
Roger, I am all done. I did not remove the window. I loosened the front lower channel nut and that allowed the window to move a little toward the front. I was then able to get the rear window channel out. I cleaned up the channel with a steel brush attached to a drill and then attached the felt with a weatherstrip sealant. reinstalled the rear channel and put door panel back on. Looks good.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Ken,
I'm glad to hear your project worked out well and you are back on the road . My rear channel felts are original and in pretty good shape, so it might be a project in the future. At least the rear channel removal and replacement job will be a lot easier than the vent window project!
I want to replace the felt on the rear window channels on my 65 roadster.
how do I remove the channels? Can I do it without removing the window?
Thanks
Ken
Ken, Just ran across you thread. I also had my vent frames re-chromed, put in new rubber, etc. But when I close the door I have about a 1 1/2" gap between the frame and the door seal by the windshield.
I see you had a similar problem. How did you fix it?
Mike
Mike,
With the door panel removed, you will be able to adjust the vent window frame and shift it forward toward the windshield. Loosen the bolts a bit, give it a bump or two, and then tighten them down for a test fit. It's a trial & error installation as you have to check not only the windshield gap, but also make sure that windows rolls up & down properly without too much slop. There is also a bolt with an adjustment screw head that will tilt the vent window frame in and out. Check that when you close the door to get it aligned with the windshield as well. You may have to live with a compromise between the gaps and alignment since the "perfect" fit usually doesn't exist on these cars. When you get it adjusted to your liking, tighten down all of the bolts and then install the moisture/noise barrier, door panel, and handles.
Mike,
With the door panel removed, you will be able to adjust the vent window frame and shift it forward toward the windshield. Loosen the bolts a bit, give it a bump or two, and then tighten them down for a test fit. It's a trial & error installation as you have to check not only the windshield gap, but also make sure that windows rolls up & down properly without too much slop. There is also a bolt with an adjustment screw head that will tilt the vent window frame in and out. Check that when you close the door to get it aligned with the windshield as well. You may have to live with a compromise between the gaps and alignment since the "perfect" fit usually doesn't exist on these cars. When you get it adjusted to your liking, tighten down all of the bolts and then install the moisture/noise barrier, door panel, and handles.
Good luck, Roger
What a beach. Looked great when I took it out. You'd think they would go back the same way. Thanks. Mike
What a beach. Looked great when I took it out. You'd think they would go back the same way. Thanks. Mike
You're right... it's a real PITA! Once I got the front gap the way I liked it (about 3/8" - which is smaller than most cars that I've seen), I had to shim the rear window track forward on one door to tighten the window slop. That created a small issue with the soft top weatherstrip along the back edge of the window glass, so I had to shim that, too, to get a good fit all around. Shimming the vertical weatherstrip was the hardest part of the job! I had to MacGyver a thin piece of black foam rubber between the vinyl top and rigid weatherstrip, and then get the short screws (that are integral with the rigid weatherstrip) through the foam rubber piece and the metal soft top frame. That left only a few threads for the small nut to catch while trying to work in a very tight area not meant for adult-size fingers. I remember cursing like a drunken sailor! Anyway, the end result was excellent and, in hindsight, was definitely worth the effort.