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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 4 Speed Dave

Which is fine for some people but not for the true performance minded people who want to extract the most amount of performance out of a particular combination. So where did the OP go?
That's the fallacy of your point of view on this subject, on this forum. You have no idea what the OP wants/needs. I'd bet most of the people on this forum don't share your performance objectives. I would also bet that same number of people is as much or more interested in durability/reliability rather than maximum performance at the risk of expense and other problems.

You'd likely have a big fan base here though:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/engine-mods-7/
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 4 Speed Dave
Sorry to break it to you the L88 cam is not a radical camshaft. The opening and closing ramps are very slow compared to newer camshafts thus allowing the use of lighter valve springs which in turn puts less stress on the camshaft itself. Do a little research and look at the old Chiltons manuals what the specs are on the valve springs that were used back then. They are in the 80-100 lb range at the installed height. Heck the 69 427 430 hp motor has only 116 lbs of spring pressure on the factory dual springs.
In 1967, was the L88 cam not considered to be a radical camshaft?? Zora and The General certainly did. .... And for the genre for a 67 BB, it still is.

Also, did I say anything about factory springs???

Here are my spring specs that I installed 30+ years ago:
Valve Springs, Triple, 1.550 in. Outside Diameter, 482 lbs./in. Rate.
Do these seem "light" to you?
You are certainly are entitled to your opinion, so please lets not
Originally Posted by 4 Speed Dave
And what camshaft sounds better that is as subjective as who makes the best toilet paper.
I prefer the CHARMIN SUPER SOFT MEGA ROLL myself!

And again - "The Choice is Yours for Both"

Last edited by babbah; Oct 17, 2013 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 65silververt
That's right, it has more lift, reasonable duration, its a hydraulic roller, and 10.2:1 compression, so it will run on pump gas. It pulls through the entire RPM range to 6200 without slacking up. Even with the stock 390hp cast iron intake and oval port heads, id put this 66 up against an original spec 425hp in the 1/4 mile any day of the week. rpm was around 850 in the video. i can tone it down to 650 and make it shake all over the place without it stalling and i dont have to worry about oil flow to the lobes.
And I'd put money on it. I ran a smaller, but similar hydraulic flat tappet 20 years ago with oval heads in a p/u truck and ran mid 11's on street tires shifting via column shift at 5200. Pump gas.

Just because it makes a big choppy hackity hack sound doesn't mean its got enough power to pull a wet string out of a cat's ****.

Wiped lobes are usually the result of not replacing the cam bearings, poor oil pressure at idle, or one of those comp cam cores that were known for taking dumps at random. Zinc in oil? Not so much, but it's good for conspiracy theories.

That sealed power replacement or crane suggestion would be just fine. If the OP wanted some extra umph, then he ought to say so.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bavery
The cam in my 66, 427 / 425 hp has wiped a lobe.
The car has been finished for 16 years. I was unaware of the zinc removal issue for some time after the rebuild.
Need some help deciding on a replacement cam. Roller or stock replacement with the proper oil. I here roller solid cams have lifter issued. Tough to tell fact from fiction.
Any help would be apperciated.
Have you disappeared? You haven't been back since you posted.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 01:06 PM
  #25  
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OP:

Yes, solid rollers have lifter issues. If you check with CF members like Hotrod427, the advice is to consider solid lifters to be maintenance items like oil filters. Plan to replace em away every couple of years.

With stock, unported heads, and factory exhaust manifolds, you might get an extra 20 hp out of a decent hydraulic roller cam (which do not have lifter issues). Without better heads and exhaust, more cam isn't going to do a lot of good. You wanna spend close to a grand for a proper roller cam conversion, that's your call. I'm not sure the benefit justifies the cost.

And yeah, for any flat tappet cam other than a 250 HP base model you probably do need oil with ZDDP to avoid wiping cam lobes. This has been well documented. Check "Engine Builder" magazine among other publications.

Lastly, the factory engineers knew what they were doing. Comp Cams among others grind cams with way too close a lobe separation angle for the motor to have decent street manners. Chevy goes the other way: wide LSA for good idle, good low end throttle response and decent top end HP. A blueprint replacement L72 cam will be just fine if everything else under the hood is close to stock.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #26  
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Going hyd roller for for a person who wants max performance and minimal maintenance is the way to go. I have re-cammed many 60's vintage engines that the customer wants that old school sound but the reliability of today.

A mild hyd roller will net you more power under the curve and give you 10's of thousands of worry free driving miles.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Avispa
OP:



With stock, unported heads, and factory exhaust manifolds, you might get an extra 20 hp out of a decent hydraulic roller cam (which do not have lifter issues). Without better heads and exhaust, more cam isn't going to do a lot of good. You wanna spend close to a grand for a proper roller cam conversion, that's your call. I'm not sure the benefit justifies the cost.

Lastly, the factory engineers knew what they were doing. Comp Cams among others grind cams with way too close a lobe separation angle for the motor to have decent street manners. Chevy goes the other way: wide LSA for good idle, good low end throttle response and decent top end HP. A blueprint replacement L72 cam will be just fine if everything else under the hood is close to stock.
This post supports exactly what I have been talking about when it comes to a replacement cam for a street driver.

I wondered how much actual power increase a "modern" roller cam provides on an otherwise antique engine architecture. If it's 20, plus/minus a little, that's a believable number to me and not worth the expense to install it.

Of course, you can always spring for the big bucks and go for the whole "system" and get new, modern heads and matching pistons to get the whole package to get the most out of your new "modern" roller profile camshaft. How much does that cost and is it really worth it? On a street driver, more cubes ='s more bang for the buck.
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