67 window problems
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
67 window problems
My 67 convertible has a problem with the driver door window.
From a full lower position it is stiff for about 1/2 turn on the crank.
After that is goes up easy. Going down is no problem either.
Door panel is off and inspection reveals no obvious areas for concern.
Any ideas.
From a full lower position it is stiff for about 1/2 turn on the crank.
After that is goes up easy. Going down is no problem either.
Door panel is off and inspection reveals no obvious areas for concern.
Any ideas.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,488
Likes: 805
From: East Central Florida
With the window partially raised at various heights grab the glass and carefully move it up or down to try to locate the bind.
There are several possible causes that need to be checked.
- Front or rear channels binding due to friction or misaligned. Front is part of the vent frame assembly. There are guides for the rear sash 7 channel that get dirty/rusty and a common bind area.
- Guide arms and tracks dirty or dry needing cleaning and lubrication
- Binding window regulator gearbox and related arms
- Glass loose in the lower sash causing binding when operating
In order to determine which area (or areas) is the cause, you have to eliminate each one by one. I've found by removing the track arms from the sash, this allows you to manually move the window up and down by hand to verify operation. The result will tell you if it's the regulator or not, and if not then you can determine easier where it's binding in those other areas.
Below are some pics of a '67 convertible sideglass and channels for reference.
Rich
There are several possible causes that need to be checked.
- Front or rear channels binding due to friction or misaligned. Front is part of the vent frame assembly. There are guides for the rear sash 7 channel that get dirty/rusty and a common bind area.
- Guide arms and tracks dirty or dry needing cleaning and lubrication
- Binding window regulator gearbox and related arms
- Glass loose in the lower sash causing binding when operating
In order to determine which area (or areas) is the cause, you have to eliminate each one by one. I've found by removing the track arms from the sash, this allows you to manually move the window up and down by hand to verify operation. The result will tell you if it's the regulator or not, and if not then you can determine easier where it's binding in those other areas.
Below are some pics of a '67 convertible sideglass and channels for reference.
Rich
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
With the window partially raised at various heights grab the glass and carefully move it up or down to try to locate the bind.
There are several possible causes that need to be checked.
- Front or rear channels binding due to friction or misaligned. Front is part of the vent frame assembly. There are guides for the rear sash 7 channel that get dirty/rusty and a common bind area.
- Guide arms and tracks dirty or dry needing cleaning and lubrication
- Binding window regulator gearbox and related arms
- Glass loose in the lower sash causing binding when operating
In order to determine which area (or areas) is the cause, you have to eliminate each one by one. I've found by removing the track arms from the sash, this allows you to manually move the window up and down by hand to verify operation. The result will tell you if it's the regulator or not, and if not then you can determine easier where it's binding in those other areas.
Below are some pics of a '67 convertible sideglass and channels for reference.
Rich
There are several possible causes that need to be checked.
- Front or rear channels binding due to friction or misaligned. Front is part of the vent frame assembly. There are guides for the rear sash 7 channel that get dirty/rusty and a common bind area.
- Guide arms and tracks dirty or dry needing cleaning and lubrication
- Binding window regulator gearbox and related arms
- Glass loose in the lower sash causing binding when operating
In order to determine which area (or areas) is the cause, you have to eliminate each one by one. I've found by removing the track arms from the sash, this allows you to manually move the window up and down by hand to verify operation. The result will tell you if it's the regulator or not, and if not then you can determine easier where it's binding in those other areas.
Below are some pics of a '67 convertible sideglass and channels for reference.
Rich
Your pictures are of great help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 847
Likes: 359
From: Philo IL
Thomas
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Here's something to consider. Lithium grease might not be the best material to use on those tracks. In time, it will harden to the consistency of peanut butter and create problems down the road. For window seat track lubrication a better choice would be a silicone based grease which will never harden. The gentleman who has serviced all my window needs for the last 40+ years tipped me off to this a very long time ago and it has stood the test of time. Good luck.
Thomas
Thomas
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Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 8
From: Aventura Florida
Hi vdavenp802. Before you starting messing around with the vent window, try tightening the screws (especially the bottom screw) on the side of the door that secure the rear window channel. Even a small fraction could pull the window channel back just enough to allow free travel of the glass without binding. Of course, the vent window can be adjusted to tweak the front track if necessary... but that could throw off the alignment of the vent window frame to the windshield frame and/or convertible top. It's easy enough to try the rear channel first. I recently refurbished my vent windows with new rubber seals and triple chrome plating, so I have dealt with the trial and error adjustments of vent windows 
.
Just my 2 cents, Roger
.Just my 2 cents, Roger
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Hi vdavenp802. Before you starting messing around with the vent window, try tightening the screws (especially the bottom screw) on the side of the door that secure the rear window channel. Even a small fraction could pull the window channel back just enough to allow free travel of the glass without binding. Of course, the vent window can be adjusted to tweak the front track if necessary... but that could throw off the alignment of the vent window frame to the windshield frame and/or convertible top. It's easy enough to try the rear channel first. I recently refurbished my vent windows with new rubber seals and triple chrome plating, so I have dealt with the trial and error adjustments of vent windows .
Just my 2 cents, Roger
.Just my 2 cents, Roger
I loosened the top nut and the lower nut on the vent window channel.
Then I lowered the window and the lower nut moved back about 1/4".
I then tightened the nuts a bit and raised and lowered the window several times. It was/is smooth as silk. I then secured the two nuts completely and retried the window. Still smooth all the way up and down. I was surprised it was such a simple little thing. I'm very happy not to have needed to remove the vent window and all its parts.
Thanks to all that shared an idea,I think those jogged my creative juices.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 847
Likes: 359
From: Philo IL
Congratulations on finally getting the issue resolved. Additionally I'd like to thank you for the followup post. Many times members post about a problem, then suggestions are give and we never hear back if those suggestions were helpful or not. I always like to hear "the rest of the story".
Thomas
Thomas
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 801
Likes: 19
From: Moose country Vermont
Great thread
How often it is that I look on this forum and find someone who is currently doing the same thing to their car at the same time.
I spent most of Sunday PM rehanging my doors, and yesterday installed the tracks and vent window on the right side. I made a pigtail so I could run the window up and down in the newly installed tracks. I have not as yet installed the new harness. I left the assembly hardware loose(not to) and ran the window up and down so it could align itself.
I agree that silicon based grease is best. The crap from the factory hardens up(might expect that as in most cases these cars are at least 40.) The same type of grease is in the wiper motor, and can cause it to stop working.
I could use new "felt" in my tracks. especially the rear. Does anyone supply them? I think I could make some, but do not think real felt would work. It is not a woven fabric, and would not last. It would have to be a heavy woven material.
Thanks once again to this Forum for the great information and the timing could not have been better.
I spent most of Sunday PM rehanging my doors, and yesterday installed the tracks and vent window on the right side. I made a pigtail so I could run the window up and down in the newly installed tracks. I have not as yet installed the new harness. I left the assembly hardware loose(not to) and ran the window up and down so it could align itself.
I agree that silicon based grease is best. The crap from the factory hardens up(might expect that as in most cases these cars are at least 40.) The same type of grease is in the wiper motor, and can cause it to stop working.
I could use new "felt" in my tracks. especially the rear. Does anyone supply them? I think I could make some, but do not think real felt would work. It is not a woven fabric, and would not last. It would have to be a heavy woven material.
Thanks once again to this Forum for the great information and the timing could not have been better.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,488
Likes: 805
From: East Central Florida
I picked up this project after a very long winter and tried this first.
I loosened the top nut and the lower nut on the vent window channel.
Then I lowered the window and the lower nut moved back about 1/4".
I then tightened the nuts a bit and raised and lowered the window several times. It was/is smooth as silk. I then secured the two nuts completely and retried the window. Still smooth all the way up and down. I was surprised it was such a simple little thing. I'm very happy not to have needed to remove the vent window and all its parts.
Thanks to all that shared an idea,I think those jogged my creative juices.
I loosened the top nut and the lower nut on the vent window channel.
Then I lowered the window and the lower nut moved back about 1/4".
I then tightened the nuts a bit and raised and lowered the window several times. It was/is smooth as silk. I then secured the two nuts completely and retried the window. Still smooth all the way up and down. I was surprised it was such a simple little thing. I'm very happy not to have needed to remove the vent window and all its parts.
Thanks to all that shared an idea,I think those jogged my creative juices.
Just keep in mind that when you adjusted the vent channel lower pivot, or I should say when the channel found it's own "right spot", it moves the top of the vent window in or out from the windshield frame. Just make sure nothing's hitting or that the gap isn't too tight now.
Sometimes even if it seems a simple fix, it can sometimes affect other things later. The doors and windows on these are pretty tricky. I think the AIM's most extensive section is the doors and windows.
Rich
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,488
Likes: 805
From: East Central Florida
How often it is that I look on this forum and find someone who is currently doing the same thing to their car at the same time.
I spent most of Sunday PM rehanging my doors, and yesterday installed the tracks and vent window on the right side. I made a pigtail so I could run the window up and down in the newly installed tracks. I have not as yet installed the new harness. I left the assembly hardware loose(not to) and ran the window up and down so it could align itself.
I agree that silicon based grease is best. The crap from the factory hardens up(might expect that as in most cases these cars are at least 40.) The same type of grease is in the wiper motor, and can cause it to stop working.
I could use new "felt" in my tracks. especially the rear. Does anyone supply them? I think I could make some, but do not think real felt would work. It is not a woven fabric, and would not last. It would have to be a heavy woven material.
Thanks once again to this Forum for the great information and the timing could not have been better.
I spent most of Sunday PM rehanging my doors, and yesterday installed the tracks and vent window on the right side. I made a pigtail so I could run the window up and down in the newly installed tracks. I have not as yet installed the new harness. I left the assembly hardware loose(not to) and ran the window up and down so it could align itself.
I agree that silicon based grease is best. The crap from the factory hardens up(might expect that as in most cases these cars are at least 40.) The same type of grease is in the wiper motor, and can cause it to stop working.
I could use new "felt" in my tracks. especially the rear. Does anyone supply them? I think I could make some, but do not think real felt would work. It is not a woven fabric, and would not last. It would have to be a heavy woven material.
Thanks once again to this Forum for the great information and the timing could not have been better.
ZWS-113
Rich