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I have a slow sinking brake pedal on my '66 L79. I checked for leaks at all 4 calipers, all the brake lines and the master cylinder and didn't find any. The master cylinder is also not low, but the symptoms tell me the problem is with the master cylinder. My options are to either re-build my original one or just buy a new one from one of the vendors. Looking for opinions as to which way to go and also recommendations for which vendor to use for A) re-build kit or B) new master cylinder.
I'd tear the master cylinder down and see if there is any pitting in the cylinder bore.
If there is no pitting, put a rebuild kit in it and install.
If there is pitting, then unless you are very pressed for time, I'd send the master cylinder to WhitePost restorations and them sleeve it and rebuild it.
If it is original the bore could be pitted. I had Apple Hydraulics re sleeve the bore on my original '67 master cylinder. They will also rebuild it for you.
LoneStar Caliper has high quality rebuild kits and replacement units.
My car is strictly a driver. NOM (I have original block which is cracked), Tremec 5 speed trans, Steeroids rack and pinion steering, Grant 14" steering wheel, composite rear spring, Torque Thrust wheels, etc. With this in mind, I'm inclined to bag the original and buy a new one, although I would keep the original alongside everything else I've removed.
If it is original the bore could be pitted. I had Apple Hydraulics re sleeve the bore on my original '67 master cylinder. They will also rebuild it for you.
LoneStar Caliper has high quality rebuild kits and replacement units.
I went to Lonestar's web site and created an account to see the prices. They want $250 AND my original (or a $150 core charge) for a re-manufactured stainless sleeved replacement. Probably will not go this route unless I see other vendors with similar prices.
I went to Lonestar's web site and created an account to see the prices. They want $250 AND my original (or a $150 core charge) for a re-manufactured stainless sleeved replacement. Probably will not go this route unless I see other vendors with similar prices.
White Post will sleeve it and rebuild it and turn it around in 3 days or less - Apple Hydraulics probably will too; you'll never have to touch it again.
i would give them a thorough bleeding first. I just finished getting the emergency brake unstuck in the driver side rear rotor. When bleeding, I was surprised how much air there was in each line (especially the front).
Not all kits are the same.
Some have more parts than others, which would effect the price.
Also, as said above, if you have any pits that can't be got out with just a sleight honing, don't do it.