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If the front toe is out it will feel either "darty" (wants to diverge from straight) line or will take different effort in each direction to turn. IN extreme cases you will feel one or the other front tire scrubbing when trying to turn sharply. It can also "bump steer" by wanting to turn when the suspension is compressed or extended under power or braking. If the rear toe is out, the rear will want steer in one direction or other under throttle or the car will "dog track" with the rear offset from the front.
If your unsure, I would either take it to a good shoot with laser technology or string the car yourself. Really need to start with caster then camper then toe and ride height. In rear need to be at ride height and be sure left and right are same distance from center then do camber then toe in. I have had rear end be in a toe in at ride height and toe out under compression in a turn, nasty feel.
I have an all stock '65 that felt like the rear end was on ice when traveling on winding roads or on the highway at 45-65 when turning right or left. Low speed it was fine.
I did the 4 wheel alignment in my garage with string and a level and found the problem.
I have the process written down. see attachment.
Phil
Last edited by 856666; Jan 20, 2014 at 01:12 PM.
Reason: added procedure
I have an all stock '65 that felt like the rear end was on ice when traveling on winding roads or on the highway at 45-65 when turning right or left. Low speed it was fine.
I did the 4 wheel alignment in my garage with string and a level and found the problem.
I have the process written down. see attachment.
Phil
Thanks, I'm going to give it a try but what about setting Caster?
I just want to get it as close as I can so I can drive it until I find a crusty old alignment guy in my area.
Biggd,
Setting the Front/Rear Toe and Front/Rear Camber will get you by until you find Crusty. If you think there is a need to set caster, Jegs & Summit sell a Caster/Camber gauge for less than $150 that will get the settings +/- 1/4 degree and you won't need Crusty at all.
I am satisfied with this method of alignment and enjoy doing it myself.
I should point out that caster is associated with with straight line stability, and steering effort as I understand it. My car had no issues with these, it had problems with turning stability so I focused on the Toe and Camber and found the problems during the alignment.
What issues are you experiencing with the handling on you C2?
Setting the Front/Rear Toe and Front/Rear Camber will get you by until you find Crusty. If you think there is a need to set caster, Jegs & Summit sell a Caster/Camber gauge for less than $150 that will get the settings +/- 1/4 degree and you won't need Crusty at all.
I am satisfied with this method of alignment and enjoy doing it myself.
I should point out that caster is associated with with straight line stability, and steering effort as I understand it. My car had no issues with these, it had problems with turning stability so I focused on the Toe and Camber and found the problems during the alignment.
What issues are you experiencing with the handling on you C2?
Phil
Thanks Phil, The cars in the bag for the winta (From Boston) but will do come Spring, Thanks,Bill
Setting the Front/Rear Toe and Front/Rear Camber will get you by until you find Crusty. If you think there is a need to set caster, Jegs & Summit sell a Caster/Camber gauge for less than $150 that will get the settings +/- 1/4 degree and you won't need Crusty at all.
I am satisfied with this method of alignment and enjoy doing it myself.
I should point out that caster is associated with with straight line stability, and steering effort as I understand it. My car had no issues with these, it had problems with turning stability so I focused on the Toe and Camber and found the problems during the alignment.
What issues are you experiencing with the handling on you C2?
Phil
I have no issues. The car was a basket case and I've been working on it for 5 years. I will finally be ready to put it on the road this spring. Everything on the chassis is new. I have a Steeroids power steering rack system in the front and VBP composite spring and adjustable arms in the rear. There are currently no shims in the front upper control arms or the rear trailing arms so I'm starting from scratch.
I have no issues. The car was a basket case and I've been working on it for 5 years. I will finally be ready to put it on the road this spring. Everything on the chassis is new. I have a Steeroids power steering rack system in the front and VBP composite spring and adjustable arms in the rear. There are currently no shims in the front upper control arms or the rear trailing arms so I'm starting from scratch.
Biggd,
This process will set your Toes and Cambers and after watching the Youtube it may help you dial in your Caster.
I would like to know about the Steeroids unit. Is it Manual or PS? How have you found the quality of the components?
This process will set your Toes and Cambers and after watching the Youtube it may help you dial in your Caster.
I would like to know about the Steeroids unit. Is it Manual or PS? How have you found the quality of the components?
I am considering one of these units in PS
Did you purchase direct from Steeroid?
Phil
I actually bought it off of Craigslist from someone that was doing a restoration. It's a power unit. Since I haven't driven it yet I can't respond about it's performance but it was a very easy installation and the quality seemed very good. I think someone had a complete unit for sale on the C2 parts for sale forum just this past week for $550. You might also want to check into the Borgenson [sp] power steering box too. I've heard good things about that unit and I think it's cheaper.