65 won't start
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Diamondhead MS
65 won't start
Is there a switch on the clutch to keep the starter from engaging unless its in? I looked and can't find it, but my 65 won't try to crank and the ignition and starter/solinoid are both good. If anyone can me trouble shoot this I'd appreciate it. I jumped the neutral safety switch to Jo effect.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Livin' large and havin' fun in wonderful Oklahoma
Is there a switch on the clutch to keep the starter from engaging unless its in? I looked and can't find it, but my 65 won't try to crank and the ignition and starter/solinoid are both good. If anyone can me trouble shoot this I'd appreciate it. I jumped the neutral safety switch to Jo effect.
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Instructor
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From: Diamondhead MS
Yes, I have power to the switch and as you turn it to start the brake light goes out and there is faint click but that is all. Turn signals work with switch on as normal. I swapped the ignition switch but same results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Westport CT
Is there a switch on the clutch to keep the starter from engaging unless its in? I looked and can't find it, but my 65 won't try to crank and the ignition and starter/solinoid are both good. If anyone can me trouble shoot this I'd appreciate it. I jumped the neutral safety switch to Jo effect.
Also, on the electrical point (which this is) - check connections at starter, also check main firewall plug for corrosion and tightness.
Last edited by ctjackster; Nov 23, 2013 at 03:02 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Philadelphia PA
Recently tried to start mine and it cranked for a split second and then nothing, except for a small puff of smoke coming from the starter area. Checked the cables and the negative cable wasn't fully seated on the battery post. Used a pair of clamps to spread the cable end and fully seated it and she cranked full power.
Melting Slicks
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From: DFW
Automatics have a neutral safety switch. It makes connections to the engine harness along the top of the firewall, roughly behind the distributor. Jumper the harness there and see if it starts.
I'd try to isolate he problem using a remote starter switch. If it cranks, it's the wiring or switches. If not, it's the starter or solenoid.
Good hunting..
Harry
I'd try to isolate he problem using a remote starter switch. If it cranks, it's the wiring or switches. If not, it's the starter or solenoid.
Good hunting..
Harry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Livin' large and havin' fun in wonderful Oklahoma
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Melting Slicks
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From: DFW
Thread Starter
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From: Diamondhead MS
Yes it's a manual. There s switch of the side of the transmission I thought was a nuetal switch but maybe it's the reverse switch.
Battery has 14.3 volts, I pulled cleaned bad tighten cables, pulled and cleaned all connections at Starter including the ground cable. Also pull the started and oil kid and had them checked.
I'll Ty the remote Starter next, I connect to battery and the "s" terminal of the solinoid, correct?
Battery has 14.3 volts, I pulled cleaned bad tighten cables, pulled and cleaned all connections at Starter including the ground cable. Also pull the started and oil kid and had them checked.
I'll Ty the remote Starter next, I connect to battery and the "s" terminal of the solinoid, correct?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Leavenworth Washington
Starter Solenoid
OP says the starter solenoid is good. How did you test it? Just by hearing it click? You can put a voltmeter on the plus side of the coil and when you turn the key all the way to START you should see 12V. If it stays at 8V or so, the solenoid is bad. (Solenoid sends 12V to the coil bypassing the ballast resistor when starting and once you let off the key, the power to coil goes through the resistor and drops to about 8 or so.) If, when you turn the ignition switch to START the 12V takes a big dive towards a real low number then I would look at your battery and the connections.
Geek
Geek
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Folsom CA
I would try hooking up jumper cables to another car for extra amperage, then try to start. I say this because you mention 14.3 volts. A fully charged battery will be 12.6 v or an optima might hit 12.8 to 12.9 v, neither will read 14.3. I wonder why yours is so high. It would be good to know if you have voltage drop when the key is turned to the start position. When your engine is running with the alternator engaged you will see Voltage of 13.9 -14.3 but not with the engine off. The only time I have seen high voltage in a battery is when they are shot, I just changed one in our BMW, car would not start, meter showed it was 10.8 Volts, after it had been parked 3 weeks. I charged the battery over night. Next day still no start but battery read 13.5 volts? Dead cell in battery, showed voltage but had no amperage to pull the load of a start.
Mine did try to start each time just turned over way too slowly.
Mine did try to start each time just turned over way too slowly.
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From: Diamondhead MS
Thanks for all the help. Here is what I've found. The batt gauge only moves slightly when I try to crank.
I rechecked voltage at battery, 12.6 volts when I try to start 12.54.
Hook up remote starter to solinoid "s" terminal and battery. It will crank. Got inside of car and tried it with ignition on and started the car, ran fine.
So I've have put in a new ignition switch (nos) so either it is bad they same way the old one was or it is between the switch and the starter.
I rechecked voltage at battery, 12.6 volts when I try to start 12.54.
Hook up remote starter to solinoid "s" terminal and battery. It will crank. Got inside of car and tried it with ignition on and started the car, ran fine.
So I've have put in a new ignition switch (nos) so either it is bad they same way the old one was or it is between the switch and the starter.
Thread Starter
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From: Diamondhead MS
Found the problem!!
Previous owners must have installed "cut off" switch. I found it under the dash and it was frozen so I turn to start and shorted across the terminals and it cranked. Removed the jumper and it stopped.
Previous owners must have installed "cut off" switch. I found it under the dash and it was frozen so I turn to start and shorted across the terminals and it cranked. Removed the jumper and it stopped.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: DFW
There's a connector in the harness where the automatic trans neutral safety switch would have hooked up. Its in the line from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, and could be the problem, or at least help you isolate it... It's purple both sides off the connection. It's part of the engine harness, located on the firewall, roughly just aft of the distributor.
Clean and reconnect, to see if that fixes it. If not, disconnect it and hook your remote starter switch there and see what happens. It will tell you at least which side of the connection is open. Of course you can use an ohm meter to isolate the open circuit as well.
Good hunting!
Harry
Edit... I assume you've confirmed the purple wire is on the right terminal of the solenoid?
Second edit... Glad you found the problem!
Clean and reconnect, to see if that fixes it. If not, disconnect it and hook your remote starter switch there and see what happens. It will tell you at least which side of the connection is open. Of course you can use an ohm meter to isolate the open circuit as well.
Good hunting!
Harry
Edit... I assume you've confirmed the purple wire is on the right terminal of the solenoid?
Second edit... Glad you found the problem!
Last edited by 66since71; Nov 24, 2013 at 03:32 PM.