Do you all clean internal engine parts prior to assembly? What do you use to clean the various parts?

I am cleaning each part just to be safe. Never know if there are metal shavings leftover from the factory.

Right now, I am doing the following:

1. Dip each part (including bolts) into chemical parts cleaner from local auto parts.
2. Scrub each part with a brass brush and/or plastic brush
3. Rinse each part into a some water and dish soap.
4. air dry.
5. WD40.
6. Place each part into a clean bin.

Is that good enough?

Anything else I should be concerned with?

Also, should I clean off the newly parkerized cam using the same method?

I am going soak some of the parts into a bath of oil (push rods, lifters and timing chain).

Probably, I should blow out each part with compressed air like the intake also.

 

As a shade tree mechanic, I think you are doing things right. Cover the parts after you put them in the clean bin. Keep everything in an organized layout relative to installation. I don't know about your cam question. I did all the same things when I built my 327. I did wash my engine, heads and intake with soapy warm water, rinsed and then blew them out with air and coated all the internal surfaces with WD-40. All this has lasted me 105K miles. Dennis

 

I brought the cam into the machine shop and they had put a parkerized finish on the cam. I know I did not ask for it but that's what I got.

I guess a simple soap cleaning will do the trick. I do not want to rub off the finish since I think it is for cam break in with new lifter.

 

You absolutely want ALL parts to be spotless even the bolts. Scrub out all passages , I even polish the inside of the block to remove casting flash and embedded sand particles. Tide and hot water work well, I have found an aerosol foaming cleanser that removes any traces of oil and dirt. Yes, clean the cam too even the rings after you beburr them. . Ya can't get em too clean!

 

Yeah, I used gun cleaning style brushes on the bolts and oil passages. The rings are cut to fit so I should only need to clean them up and call it good. Hopefully, that is the case.

 

What you are doing is good but soap and water is not really optimum. You will get oxidation no matter how much you try and dry the parts quickly
Go to the local petroleum distributor and buy some part washer solvent. You can usually get it by the gallon if you bring your own container.
do it in two stages first dirty like you are doing with the "auto parts cleaner" and the a final cleaning in a different container. When you re-assemble do another wash off and blow dry with clean solvent.
Parts won't oxidize if you use the petro-based parts cleaner.

 

I did that also with degreaser and chem-dip carb and parts cleaner. Okay, I think I understand.

 

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction.
One area you need to be aware of is the oil pan.
Old used engines that have been driven for years
alot of miles usually have alot of built up sludge
under the sheet metal baffle in the oil pan.
No matter how you clean it, you will still have
trash under the baffle contaminating your motor . Unless you are building a NCRS motor, I
would suggest a new oil pan. One of the cheapest parts
you will buy for your engine.
Good luck
Tony

 

Sealed Power and Federal-Mogul want the parts washed with warm soapy water then rinsed. The explanation they give is de magnetizing the machined parts, this wash allows the machining process material, micro particles to be washed off prior to the build.
It is correct that it will start rusting as soon as you get it clean so you have to dry the parts and lubricate them right away. Drying with rags can be dangerous also, you need lint free rags. The rough inner block surface will tear parts of a cotton towel off and keep them inside your new engine. Use air or lint free towels. Once lubricated after cleaning dirt in the air or dust blowing around will make your clean parts dirty again so the advice in a prior post to cover the parts to protect once clean is very valid.
Large plastic trash bags will cover the block if needed.
I have seen the Tech trainer prove this is needed, he cleaned freshly honed cylinders with brake clean, spray on cleaner, then a lacquer thinner wipe, it looked perfect visually but was still dirty to a white cloth wipe, the white cloth came away with gray machining dust in it. The cylinders and crankshaft will hold a lot of this gray machining material. Washed with warm soapy water and a toilet brush and rinsed the cylinders wiped clean.
With that said, I have never washed Engine Bearings, Rings, Pistons, Timing sets valves, valve springs or lifters. Maybe I should but I have not, and I don't know shops that do.
I do wash the block, heads, manifold, all the tin, and crankshaft. I guess we all have our own plan for cleaning. The Tin usually refers to the Oil Pan, Timing cover, Valve cover, the early small blocks like the pre 67 327 would have the oil vent system, PCV, that need cleaning.

 

Yeah, I already bought a replacement pan.

 

I have been using lint free towels. I did clean out the PCV breather. The machine shop did take it out for me so made it easy. Last night, I cleaned a new set of lifters. The white towel was dark afterwards...

Thanks for the information! All of the tips really helps!

 

The best way to clean freshly bored cylinders is to use ATF on a paper towel or what have you. It usually takes 3 sessions to get em clean. Your last one should show a clean towel. The ATF is a detergent that will loosen the honing grit. Do it your way then try mine, I think you will be surprised. AND if the rings are file fit there will be a burr that needs removed also the bearings right out of the box have dust on them, gotta clean em ! Clean everything.

 

For any part which can rust, your sequence ought to be:

1. Wash with soap and water then rinse.
2. Liberally coat with WD-40
3. Blow dry with compressed air.
4. Store in clean, sealed bag.

The WD-40 will lift water off the metal surface and prevent rust from forming. If you are concerned about WD-40 being on a part you plan to use in an engine, wash off the WD-40 with Brakleen (and compressed air) just prior to installation.

Jim

 

No, I just want to make sure I am cleaning the parts right is all and not leaving anything out or missing anything in the process.

Yeah, I have some brake clean so I can shoot the parts once more before assembling.

 

I assume that you are planning to remove the steel heat shield rivited to the underside of the intake manifold so that you can clean the area underneath. I learned that lesson the hard way once. My new engine failed in a very few miles and we were able to trace it back to grit that was left under that shield.

Doc

 

I am using an edelbrock aftermarket intake.