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Is the vacuum control unit under the dash for the a/c shut simply destined to leak? I am on my 3rd one now. The original leaked, likely from age. The first replacement leaked almost out of the gate and the third one lasted a few months.
The leak isn't great, but it is enough that I can hear it at idle hissing away under there and it bugs me.
By control unit, do you mean the brass shutoff valve for the heater valve on the top of the case ? Or do you have some other vacuum switch under there ?
That's the shutoff valve for the heater control valve. I put a new brass one in mine from LIC, and have no problems for 2 years so far. "knock on wood"
Make sure that you route the vacuum lines very carefully, If not, they may contact the mechanical linkage and be torn, cut or knocked loose from the linkage movement.
There are clips that hold them to the case away from the linkage.
That's the shutoff valve for the heater control valve. I put a new brass one in mine from LIC, and have no problems for 2 years so far. "knock on wood"
Make sure that you route the vacuum lines very carefully, If not, they may contact the mechanical linkage and be torn, cut or knocked loose from the linkage movement.
There are clips that hold them to the case away from the linkage.
I bought mine from LIC as well and had no issues. No heat when off and hot water when I want it. I also used the clips on the heater box to hold the vacuum lines secure. Coming up on one year since the install. Fingers crossed.
Tom
I've had three a/c C2's and never had the problem. Where is it leaking, around the sliding piece, or the fitting?
There is actually a built in leak, but I dont think it comes into play except to release the vacuum to the actuator. I have never noticed any sound coming from it.
There is actually a built in leak, but I dont think it comes into play except to release the vacuum to the actuator. I have never noticed any sound coming from it.
I have a clear low-grade hiss. When I wiggle the actuator the pitch changes so I assume it is a seal there.
That's the heater valve shut off switch. Were all of the leaking ones from the same vendor ? Maybe try another vendor, they might have a different part supplier. Worth a try.
Or just turn the radio up. He He !
Appears to leak out the sliding fitting and there is no way to take it apart and replace a seal. I tried putting grease in there, no dice.
Maybe a little penetrating oil to soften up the seal?
As Wayne W states, there is a built in small vent connection to break vacuum to the hot water valve when needed...........but you should not have a constant leak.
One of our forum guys took one apart and documented the process. It will be in the archives. I will try to find it and post the link.
I believe that LICS had this valve reproduced, so all the valves out there should have come from them. But perhaps some revisions were done on later batches of the switch to correct issues. No one else that I know has reported this issue from a recent LICS switch. You could remove the switch and then use a Mighty-Vac or something similar to check it out on the bench. The issue may be a split hose...............
Is the vacuum control unit under the dash for the a/c shut simply destined to leak? I am on my 3rd one now. The original leaked, likely from age. The first replacement leaked almost out of the gate and the third one lasted a few months.
The leak isn't great, but it is enough that I can hear it at idle hissing away under there and it bugs me.
I solved it on the first crap replacement by covering the end of the valve with a small diameter soft plastic tubing end protector/cover. You will need a long one to clear the brass sticking out of the valve end. As soon as you limit the end leakage, the valve does the job.
Be sure to check the mounting bracket on the repro valves ! They appear to be attached with "super glue". Mine was loose and would have broken completely loose. I used a fine file to dress up the brass and good old JB Weld. I was told by the vendor that they are all provided by LIC.
Be sure to check the mounting bracket on the repro valves ! They appear to be attached with "super glue". Mine was loose and would have broken completely loose. I used a fine file to dress up the brass and good old JB Weld. I was told by the vendor that they are all provided by LIC.
You are correct. But as of 10/2013 LIC no longer makes the vacuum switch for late 64-67 cars with A/C and won't be in the future. The early one for 63-early 64 has one small and one larger diameter vacuum hose nipple. The later one has two small dia nipples. And they are built with a designed vacuum leak according to the Restorer article I read sometime back. Mine has it and works perfectly. When the engine is running I can't hear it crawling up under the glovebox. I must've lucked out.
Tom
You are correct. But as of 10/2013 LIC no longer makes the vacuum switch for late 64-67 cars with A/C and won't be in the future. The early one for 63-early 64 has one small and one larger diameter vacuum hose nipple. The later one has two small dia nipples. And they are built with a designed vacuum leak according to the Restorer article I read sometime back. Mine has it and works perfectly. When the engine is running I can't hear it crawling up under the glovebox. I must've lucked out.
Tom
Just to clarify: I have the 63-early 64 valve and it works as it should. Just had the loose bracket concern. I imagine one could use the earlier valve if you used adapters at the ends of the vacuum hose. ( if they are still being offered). Or is my assumption flawed?
Just to clarify: I have the 63-early 64 valve and it works as it should. Just had the loose bracket concern. I imagine one could use the earlier valve if you used adapters at the ends of the vacuum hose. ( if they are still being offered). Or is my assumption flawed?
You're right on the money again. The early model can easily be mounted and used on the later models with one adaptor for the large nipple.
Tom
never thought to test it with a vacuum tester to locate problem. i'll do that.
also, the switch itself works shutting off the heater and bringing on the AC, it just hisses and that bugs me. It thought I capped the end, maybe not that well. I will also check for the other issues and look at a later model valve. thanks for all the input.
Out and tested on the bench. I dipped either end in a glass of water and put the vac tester on it. the rear of the switch did not suck in water, the front or button side drew in water like a straw.
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