It looks like I need to work on the door hinge.I tried to find some info on them no luck should I replace the whole hinge or just replace the pins. Thabks vince

 

Just replace the bushings and the pin.. There should be no need to replace the entire hinge.

Hitch

 

This is the article I followed - for a '63 but still applies. I also found that the Dorman 38400 hinge kits work a LOT better than the typical Corvette vendor kits, but you will have to take off some length on the pin with a Dremel cutting wheel - no biggee though:
http://www.jonesysautoclub.com/rebui...1963-corvette/

I didn't do the solder trick in the article - the Dorman hinges are nice and tight without that particular magic!

 

Make sure the front rivet plates on the front face of the door jab itself aren't loose - that will give you the same symptoms as worn hinge pins/bushings.

 

is there a site to show step by step on how to replace hinge or pins thanks vince

 

that depends. If your hinge pin has locked up the bushings are rotating with the pin, then you are going to have issues with the hinge itself and you might be better off looking for a good used one. If not, then just replace the pin and bushings and you will be set to go.

Make sure you cut around the painted bolts with a razor blade before you remove them or you will take a large chunk of paint with the bolt when you break it loose. You probably know this, but there are two more bolts that hold each hinge which must be accessed from behind the kick panel.

 

I just provided that in the third post above - check out the link

 

Does this hinge repair work on a C1?

Who or what is Dorman and where do you buy the Dorman 38400 hinge kit?

Thank you

 

Yes, and, do a web search.

Dorman is a company that produces auto parts...

O'Reilly's can get, or already has, the Dorman kit IIRC or its available online or at many "HELP" racks at your local auto parts store.

 

Thanks

 

When I did my hinges I "double bushed" them for more bearing area on the pin.
After removing old bushings insert first bushing. File off the flanged top. Use old bushing to drive down first bushing. Before installing second bushing I used a punch to put 4 punch marks in the hinge bore. This keeps the bushing from rotating in the bore similar to the solder trick. Install second bushing. Repeat process for other end. You now have 4 bushings per hole. I also reused my old pins as they were not worn and slightly larger in diameter than the repo pins.

Randy

 

I looked at the site it shows the hinge out I was looking at a part online it looks likr there are two bolts on the inside of the hinge do you need to remove the door frist to get at the bolts? vince

 

You REALLY want to remove the 6 bolts in each of the top and bottom hinges first before even touching the bolts that mount the hinge to the body at the birdcage. If you can scribe marks inside the door to note the hinge positions that will help re-aligning things later on. I drilled each hinge and made two holes in each for alignment pins and that helped but was a LOT more work. That hinge steel is tough. (They can be seen in the second picture.)

You can put a pump up floor jack with a 2x4 longways under the door bottom and take some drama out of lifting it off but you really need two people. When that is done you'll see two bolts on each of the upper and lower hinges inside the door jamb. The other two bolts for each hinge are through holes behind the kick panel. IF THERE ARE ANY SHIMS BEHIND ANY OF THE HINGES INSIDE THE DOOR NOTE THEIR NUMBER AND LOCATION CAREFULLY FOR RE-INSTALLATION.

One of those magnetic socket inserts from Harbor Freight inside a 9/16" shallow socket will make sure you don't drop those kick panel bolts - they are tricky to reach. I bought a whole new hinge bolt kit from Zip for $50 as some of my bolts were stripped.

You will have to **** the hinge arm at various angles as you maneuver the hinge main section out of the door - I actually had to dremel a few areas around the door jamb hinge hole very lightly and then the hinge pivoted right out. (See green arrows). Use painter's tape to protect things as needed.