Speculation thread - engine swap thoughts
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Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Speculation thread - engine swap thoughts
My recently-purchased '65 has the high-rpm tach and the 80 psi oil pressure gage, no power steering or power brakes.
It has a "correctly date coded" HF (300HP) engine which is fresh and appears correct, including the manifolds and carb. It runs great and looks good but doesn't match the car.
I wondering about the sense of hunting a 365 hp L76 and doing a swap. The fenders do not seem to show fuelie fender badge holes (??)(I wish), and I have not checked the tell-tale big block signs, but the springs do not appear to be recently changed to coincide with the fresh engine, and the front end is not "airborne" from losing 80 pounds, so I am not thinking it was a 396.
It does have a 1 June 65 build date, so it is within the big block range, but I really don't think so.
Thoughts?
It has a "correctly date coded" HF (300HP) engine which is fresh and appears correct, including the manifolds and carb. It runs great and looks good but doesn't match the car.
I wondering about the sense of hunting a 365 hp L76 and doing a swap. The fenders do not seem to show fuelie fender badge holes (??)(I wish), and I have not checked the tell-tale big block signs, but the springs do not appear to be recently changed to coincide with the fresh engine, and the front end is not "airborne" from losing 80 pounds, so I am not thinking it was a 396.
It does have a 1 June 65 build date, so it is within the big block range, but I really don't think so.
Thoughts?
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Keep the block and get the 460/461 intake and run it. Unles you really want to pull the engine. Then the possibly is endless. Also what is on the full stamp pad? Is it a original corvette engine
Le Mans Master
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From: Prescott Arizona
ER - Here's a recent thread that would be a start for you to read since it brings up a number of items that would be present on a real 65 396 Vette. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-bb-vette.html
As for which engine to go with if it's a smallblock, if it has a non-original 327 in it now, another 327 even if built to 365 standards is still going to be a non-original engine so you can leave the current engine in there and make it appear more like a 365 engine with bolt on items like the intake that's been mentioned. If you do decide to build a 365-spec solid lifter engine, you might want to check to see what gears are in the diff just in case someone swapped them for cruise type gears like 3:08's. Just something to consider.
Mike T.
As for which engine to go with if it's a smallblock, if it has a non-original 327 in it now, another 327 even if built to 365 standards is still going to be a non-original engine so you can leave the current engine in there and make it appear more like a 365 engine with bolt on items like the intake that's been mentioned. If you do decide to build a 365-spec solid lifter engine, you might want to check to see what gears are in the diff just in case someone swapped them for cruise type gears like 3:08's. Just something to consider.
Mike T.
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I don't have the vin on the stamp pad at my fingertips, but the engine code is F0526HF, consistent with a 65 bette engine where HF = 300HP.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
ER - Here's a recent thread that would be a start for you to read since it brings up a number of items that would be present on a real 65 396 Vette. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-bb-vette.html
As for which engine to go with if it's a smallblock, if it has a non-original 327 in it now, another 327 even if built to 365 standards is still going to be a non-original engine so you can leave the current engine in there and make it appear more like a 365 engine with bolt on items like the intake that's been mentioned. If you do decide to build a 365-spec solid lifter engine, you might want to check to see what gears are in the diff just in case someone swapped them for cruise type gears like 3:08's. Just something to consider.
Mike T.
As for which engine to go with if it's a smallblock, if it has a non-original 327 in it now, another 327 even if built to 365 standards is still going to be a non-original engine so you can leave the current engine in there and make it appear more like a 365 engine with bolt on items like the intake that's been mentioned. If you do decide to build a 365-spec solid lifter engine, you might want to check to see what gears are in the diff just in case someone swapped them for cruise type gears like 3:08's. Just something to consider.
Mike T.
I do like your thoughts on building the current very nice engine as a faux (but not misrepresented) 365 hp.
Le Mans Master
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From: Prescott Arizona
Even though the base 250 horse and 300 horse engines originally had painted steel valve covers, a lot of them now run the finned aluminum versions like the higher horse 327's. Add those covers, a factory aluminum intake/square flange carb/air cleaner and it will at least look like the original type engine. Depending on the style of driving you do, a fresh 327-300 horse will probably fit the bill just fine unless you like to hit the high rpms.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
Last edited by Vet65te; Mar 16, 2014 at 07:44 PM. Reason: added 'square flange carb'.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Even though the base 250 horse and 300 horse engines originally had painted steel valve covers, a lot of them now run the finned aluminum versions like the higher horse 327's. Add those covers, a factory aluminum intake/square flange carb/air cleaner and it will at least look like the original type engine. Depending on the style of driving you do, a fresh 327-300 horse will probably fit the bill just fine unless you like to hit the high rpms.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
It already has the finned aluminum valve covers, with the casting crack, even.
It certainly would be easy to replicate the 365 look.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Tech Contributor
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From: Conroe Texas
What are your goals for the car? You haven't taken delivery of your new purchase yet so I'd recommend standing down on engine swap planning and wait until you've lived with your new car for a while before deciding what direction you want your car to take.
Jeff
Jeff
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Just chomping at the bit until it arrives.
That, and I have lots of travel before I can start playing with it.
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From: Conroe Texas
Fully understand about being eager.
After spending time with the car you will find various things you will want to change or repair. Maybe you do a tranny and rear gear swap. Maybe you replace the engine after all, who knows what you will find!
After spending time with the car you will find various things you will want to change or repair. Maybe you do a tranny and rear gear swap. Maybe you replace the engine after all, who knows what you will find!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
You would think after waiting all this time, I could stand it a few more days.
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Army
Even though the base 250 horse and 300 horse engines originally had painted steel valve covers, a lot of them now run the finned aluminum versions like the higher horse 327's. Add those covers, a factory aluminum intake/square flange carb/air cleaner and it will at least look like the original type engine. Depending on the style of driving you do, a fresh 327-300 horse will probably fit the bill just fine unless you like to hit the high rpms.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
Do you happen to know if the trans and rear end are the originals and what the rear gear ratio is?
Mike T.
There is NOTHING wrong with those little 250/300hp mills. The OP should drive the car and decide what he thinks before jumping into mods that might be more trouble than they're worth.
Here is my original SWC 250hp (dressed up as described above). I rebuilt the AFB carb, added a Pertronix and Vintage Air. It is idling at about 750 RPM and drops to 600 RPM when the A/C kicks in. You can balance a nickel on the air cleaner and it'll pull strong to the red line. [yt]
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 16, 2014 at 09:25 PM.
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From: Clinton Township MI
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Easy Rhino,
I agree with others here, get it in your garage first then get some seat time. You might be pleasantly surprised how she drives out. Definitely not an expensive route to go window dressing a 300 hp motor to visually look like a 365 hp motor.
For a moment there I thought I might have your 365 horse motor (if indeed your car originally had one).
Pics of the block I purchased follow.
I took the approach of mothballing my original 300 hp motor and purchased a, what I call, generic 327. Turns out the motor I bought was coded FO 327 HH, a true '65 365 hp block (my car was assembled 3/08/65). VIN on the block I bought is: 14153
That block has been in my '5 since 2008. I did try to replicate the 365 with this block and went 1 better using the '70-72 LT-1 intake and solid lifter camshaft (in lieu of the 30/30 cam). I did upgrade the rods to Crower for those trips to 6,500 and above. Visually she's a 365 horse dressed out.
The last pic is a shot of my engine bay.
Jim
In God We Trust!
I agree with others here, get it in your garage first then get some seat time. You might be pleasantly surprised how she drives out. Definitely not an expensive route to go window dressing a 300 hp motor to visually look like a 365 hp motor.
For a moment there I thought I might have your 365 horse motor (if indeed your car originally had one).
Pics of the block I purchased follow.
I took the approach of mothballing my original 300 hp motor and purchased a, what I call, generic 327. Turns out the motor I bought was coded FO 327 HH, a true '65 365 hp block (my car was assembled 3/08/65). VIN on the block I bought is: 14153
That block has been in my '5 since 2008. I did try to replicate the 365 with this block and went 1 better using the '70-72 LT-1 intake and solid lifter camshaft (in lieu of the 30/30 cam). I did upgrade the rods to Crower for those trips to 6,500 and above. Visually she's a 365 horse dressed out.
The last pic is a shot of my engine bay.
Jim
In God We Trust!
Le Mans Master
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From: Prescott Arizona
[QUOTE=Easy Rhino;1586421783]The tranny and diff match the vin, but the rear gears tag is missing (isn't that where the gears are coded?). However, the SOTP rpm to road speed does not seem to be a 3.73, 4.11, and certainly not a 4.56. I'm guessing that it "feels" like a mid-3.00, like a 3.36 or 3.55, but not a 3.08. I'll know more once it arrives.
ER - There is a date code and gear ratio code on the diff but no VIN. While some GM cars had a metal tag bolted to the diff cover plate to indicate gear ratio or positraction, your midyear will have a code stamped on the underside of the differential housing that will indicate the gear ratio and whether it was posi or not. With all the time that has passed since the car was manufactured, there is a chance that the gears inside have been swapped for a different ratio but let us know what the code is once you receive the Vette and we'll help you decipher it. Here's a pic of the diff that's in my 65 Coupe (this AT diff is a 3:08 posi from 1968). These figures face 'downward'.
Mike T.
ER - There is a date code and gear ratio code on the diff but no VIN. While some GM cars had a metal tag bolted to the diff cover plate to indicate gear ratio or positraction, your midyear will have a code stamped on the underside of the differential housing that will indicate the gear ratio and whether it was posi or not. With all the time that has passed since the car was manufactured, there is a chance that the gears inside have been swapped for a different ratio but let us know what the code is once you receive the Vette and we'll help you decipher it. Here's a pic of the diff that's in my 65 Coupe (this AT diff is a 3:08 posi from 1968). These figures face 'downward'.
Mike T.