confirming the correct original engine
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
confirming the correct original engine
Archaeology commences on my new to me '65.
It currently has a 300hp 327 (HF) engine in it, but non-numbers matching (wrong vin on engine stamp pad).
Hints: It has the high rpm tach, 4.11 gears (I think, but to be confirmed), and has been repainted. It is a June 1965 build, very late for the few fuelies built in '65.
Where to look?
It has the fuelie firewall hole, but I think I read where they all did in '65, and sits high in the front (too light?).
I have not had a chance to look under the fenders for prior badges, and I see no evidence of the driver's side (BB) battery.
By numbers alone it is most likely to have been a 365hp, imho.
Thoughts?
It currently has a 300hp 327 (HF) engine in it, but non-numbers matching (wrong vin on engine stamp pad).
Hints: It has the high rpm tach, 4.11 gears (I think, but to be confirmed), and has been repainted. It is a June 1965 build, very late for the few fuelies built in '65.
Where to look?
It has the fuelie firewall hole, but I think I read where they all did in '65, and sits high in the front (too light?).
I have not had a chance to look under the fenders for prior badges, and I see no evidence of the driver's side (BB) battery.
By numbers alone it is most likely to have been a 365hp, imho.
Thoughts?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,721
Likes: 3,706
From: Central Arkansas
The high RPM tach is the only hint of an original high HP SB. You could pull the instruments and see what you find on the back side to authenticate if it is the original tach or not. Does it appear to be a complete engine transplant or could any original parts have been mounted back on a short block? I would check the transmission numbers to see if they match the VIN. If it was a mechanical lifter motor originally it was probably ordered with the close ratio box - but to verify if it's CR or WR would require pulling it. You can reach some conclusions from driving it and rpm drop between shifts but I don't know that I could be sure from that alone.
I doubt anyone would have ordered a 4.11 rear with a 327/300 engine if by chance the rear differential is original and coded for a 4.11 rear.
Other than that - I would just enjoy it as a 327/300 car which is a nice driver or you can make it into anything you want.
I doubt anyone would have ordered a 4.11 rear with a 327/300 engine if by chance the rear differential is original and coded for a 4.11 rear.
Other than that - I would just enjoy it as a 327/300 car which is a nice driver or you can make it into anything you want.
Last edited by DansYellow66; Apr 6, 2014 at 07:12 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,772
Likes: 196
From: Asheville NC
Ratios
The high RPM tach is the only hint of an original high HP SB. You could pull the instruments and see what you find on the back side to authenticate if it is the original tach or not. Does it appear to be a complete engine transplant or could any original parts have been mounted back on a short block? I would check the transmission numbers to see if they match the VIN. If it was a mechanical lifter motor originally it was probably ordered with the close ratio box - but to verify if it's CR or WR would require pulling it. You can reach some conclusions from driving it and rpm drop between shifts but I don't know that I could be sure from that alone.
I doubt anyone would have ordered a 4.11 rear with a 327/300 engine if by chance the rear differential is original and coded for a 4.11 rear.
Other than that - I would just enjoy it as a 327/300 car which is a nice driver or you can make it into anything you want.
I doubt anyone would have ordered a 4.11 rear with a 327/300 engine if by chance the rear differential is original and coded for a 4.11 rear.
Other than that - I would just enjoy it as a 327/300 car which is a nice driver or you can make it into anything you want.
I found it handy when deciding on a 5 speed. I ended up with a T45 aka RS400/500 and a 3:55 differential.
http://www.corral.net/tech/gearcalc.html
Phil
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,687
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From: Shamong, NJ
On original fuelies, the air cleaner was bolted to the inner fender skirt. Take a look at the left inner fender, to see if there is any extra holes in it, or any indication that the air cleaner may have been bolted to it.
Generally, all non air small block cars, used the same front spring. If your car is sitting high in front, it likely has new front springs. New aftermarket springs, will often cause the car to sit high. With time and miles, new springs usually "settle" some.
It's also possible that you have the wrong front springs, or the springs aren't seated in the a-arm properly.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Good stuff, guys.
Anybody know the codes for the back side of the instrument panel, and whether or not the codes can be read with an inspection mirror (in other words, without removal)?
Anybody know the codes for the back side of the instrument panel, and whether or not the codes can be read with an inspection mirror (in other words, without removal)?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,347
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From: San Clemente CA
The codes are on a sticker on back of cluster so you might be able to see with a mirror but I have not tried. The codes are by horsepower with the highest horsepowers together.
LA - 250 / 300 hp
LB - 365 / 375 / 425 hp
LC - 350 hp
Don
LA - 250 / 300 hp
LB - 365 / 375 / 425 hp
LC - 350 hp
Don
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Team Owner
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
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There also is a ink date stamp on the back. If it's still readable it should line up with your cars build date.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 31,838
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,135
Likes: 9,447
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist