alt. mod.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,357
From: Santa Ana CA
Replace the old alternator with the 1-wire using the same bolts. Attach the red wire to "Batt" terminal on the 1-wire alternator. Ground black wire to alternator case. Unplug the two pin connector and once your satisfied with everything, you can cut it off.
That's all you need to do except to rev the engine once each time you start to car to activate the field and start it charging.
It is that easy.
That's all you need to do except to rev the engine once each time you start to car to activate the field and start it charging.
It is that easy.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,319
Likes: 2,071
From: California
Madd Electrical had a kit for the really novice guys!
Are you just wanting to do this to clean things up? Are you having a problem? Do you need the modification to power more crap? etc.? Are the pulleys and belts you are using right for what you need? Etc. ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western Massachusetts
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This subject comes up a lot on various GM forums I visit, especially Chevytalk.
The beauty of the period GM charging systems is that the regulator senses the system buss voltage (at the horn relay battery terminal) and controls field current accordingly, so that the alternator responds to the needs of the car rather than simply what is at the output lug of the alternator. GM included all the extra wiring to accomplish this for a reason, and your substitution of a one wire alternator is not an improvement but a deficiency.
A stock alternator with a electronic regulator using the original Delco cover will do a better job and look correct.
One wire alternators are fine for drag cars & farm equipment (their intended use), but do not belong in automobiles. Will it work, yes. Is it kosher? No.
Dan
The beauty of the period GM charging systems is that the regulator senses the system buss voltage (at the horn relay battery terminal) and controls field current accordingly, so that the alternator responds to the needs of the car rather than simply what is at the output lug of the alternator. GM included all the extra wiring to accomplish this for a reason, and your substitution of a one wire alternator is not an improvement but a deficiency.
A stock alternator with a electronic regulator using the original Delco cover will do a better job and look correct.
One wire alternators are fine for drag cars & farm equipment (their intended use), but do not belong in automobiles. Will it work, yes. Is it kosher? No.
Dan
Last edited by dplotkin; Apr 8, 2014 at 01:25 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Western Massachusetts
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Close to DC
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Le Mans Master
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Understood. I tend to overemphisize the alternative to this one wire alternator notion because it is not a good solution and I think people should know why. Yet you are right. Brevity is the sole of wit after all!
Dan
Dan
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: California
Ok so to run a higher output Alternator!
I choose a to mimic what GM did in the later year models with a higher output Alternator that has better charging from or at lower rpms and more overall output in it's driving range! Thus maybe one wire is an improper way of categorizing it (later vintage alteration to the wiring to copy what GM did starting in the 70's to the current, is what I did!) I also underdrive the alternator pulley about 30%, because I redline at around 8200rpm! And a clog belt can get squirrelly at 8200rpm and wants to work its way off of any pulley, but I am running Gilmers with pulley guides!
Let's see why do I want a higher output alternator, #1 I am running H4 Marchal Cibie type lights, running a switchable dual coil/switchable dual MSD ignition boxes setup, I have auxillary cooling fan on the radiator, I have an auxillary cooling fan on the oil cooler! Etc.. Thus when you total up the usage with everything running, with a vintage 1960's alternator, my battery was discharging till dead!
But I guesss I am not one of the smart ones, I should have stuck to the measley 37 amp units or such or whatever used to be stock.
PS I am also kicking over about 12.5 to 1 compression to start the thing!
Let's see why do I want a higher output alternator, #1 I am running H4 Marchal Cibie type lights, running a switchable dual coil/switchable dual MSD ignition boxes setup, I have auxillary cooling fan on the radiator, I have an auxillary cooling fan on the oil cooler! Etc.. Thus when you total up the usage with everything running, with a vintage 1960's alternator, my battery was discharging till dead!
But I guesss I am not one of the smart ones, I should have stuck to the measley 37 amp units or such or whatever used to be stock.
PS I am also kicking over about 12.5 to 1 compression to start the thing!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Apr 8, 2014 at 03:32 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Santa Ana CA
I've been using a polished, 100 amp, 1-wire alternator for years and have not had any problems with it.
Who cares how or where the voltage is sensed just so the battery stays charged and does not overcharge?
I've had an Optima Yellow Top for a long time, and the system never fails to provide plenty of power to start the car, even if I let it sit for months on end.
Who cares how or where the voltage is sensed just so the battery stays charged and does not overcharge?
I've had an Optima Yellow Top for a long time, and the system never fails to provide plenty of power to start the car, even if I let it sit for months on end.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western Massachusetts
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western Massachusetts
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I choose a to mimic what GM did in the later year models with a higher output Alternator that has better charging from or at lower rpms and more overall output in it's driving range! Thus maybe one wire is an improper way of categorizing it (later vintage alteration to the wiring to copy what GM did starting in the 70's to the current, is what I did!) I also underdrive the alternator pulley about 30%, because I redline at around 8200rpm! And a clog belt can get squirrelly at 8200rpm and wants to work its way off of any pulley, but I am running Gilmers with pulley guides!
Let's see why do I want a higher output alternator, #1 I am running H4 Marchal Cibie type lights, running a switchable dual coil/switchable dual MSD ignition boxes setup, I have auxillary cooling fan on the radiator, I have an auxillary cooling fan on the oil cooler! Etc.. Thus when you total up the usage with everything running, with a vintage 1960's alternator, my battery was discharging till dead!
But I guess I am not one of the smart ones, I should have stuck to the measley 37 amp units or such or whatever used to be stock.
PS I am also kicking over about 12.5 to 1 compression to start the thing!
Let's see why do I want a higher output alternator, #1 I am running H4 Marchal Cibie type lights, running a switchable dual coil/switchable dual MSD ignition boxes setup, I have auxillary cooling fan on the radiator, I have an auxillary cooling fan on the oil cooler! Etc.. Thus when you total up the usage with everything running, with a vintage 1960's alternator, my battery was discharging till dead!
But I guess I am not one of the smart ones, I should have stuck to the measley 37 amp units or such or whatever used to be stock.
PS I am also kicking over about 12.5 to 1 compression to start the thing!
Dan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,451
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From: Scottsdale AZ
See the guys at Madelectrical.com, study up a little, you will find the reason for the complexity in system as described previously. And yes you should use a voltage sensing wire at the main bus and charge as required to keep the main bus at nominal voltage.
Relays help alot!
Relays help alot!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,319
Likes: 2,071
From: California
Usually if I have the time, I will attempt to get some info on the parameters!
Parameters- About what they are trying to do or accomplish, or what problem they are wanting to solve. So far that hasn't been answered by the Op. Thus we don't know yet actually in what direction we can send him in!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 786
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From: Emporia, pay no attention to that man behind the curtain, KS
I've been using a polished, 100 amp, 1-wire alternator for years and have not had any problems with it.
Who cares how or where the voltage is sensed just so the battery stays charged and does not overcharge?
I've had an Optima Yellow Top for a long time, and the system never fails to provide plenty of power to start the car, even if I let it sit for months on end.
Who cares how or where the voltage is sensed just so the battery stays charged and does not overcharge?
I've had an Optima Yellow Top for a long time, and the system never fails to provide plenty of power to start the car, even if I let it sit for months on end.
Oh well, what do I know?
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