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WARNING TO OTHER IF THIS HAPPENS...DONT TRY TO START THE CAR, REMOVE PLUGS, LET SIT FOR DAYS, TURN OVER BY HAND, THEN AIR OUT SOME MORE AND ONLY THEN, REINSTALL PLUGS.
I went for a drive earlier, then came home and shut the car off and lifted the hood so the engine would cool down quicker. It's warm outside today, around 82, but not hot and the car ran consistently at 185 degrees with no overheating. 30-45 minutes after the car was parked, i went back in the garage and heard a bubbling noise coming from the engine. I lifted the hood and the below video is what i observed. This wasn't occurring previously and I am wondering what caused it to start? The carburetor was hot to the touch when I discovered the fuel percolating, but I could not locate my IR gun to take its temp.
The crossover at the top of the intake is blocked off, but the heat passage for the original style carburetor choke is still open.
The floats are set correctly and are dead center while the car idles.
I had that problem when I installed a new SBC 400 motor. It would always happen on a hot day. I had to route the fuel lines up higher off the manifold and install a 1" phenolic spacer. That solved the problem.
I went for a drive earlier, then came home and shut the car off and lifted the hood so the engine would cool down quicker. It's warm outside today, around 82, but not hot and the car ran consistently at 185 degrees with no overheating. 30-45 minutes after the car was parked, i went back in the garage and heard a bubbling noise coming from the engine. I lifted the hood and the below video is what i observed. This wasn't occurring previously and I am wondering what caused it to start? The carburetor was hot to the touch when I discovered the fuel percolating, but I could not locate my IR gun to take its temp.
The crossover at the top of the intake is blocked off, but the heat passage for the original style carburetor choke is still open.
The floats are set correctly and are dead center while the car idles.
The car will not turn over now....just clanks once when i turn the key and then nothing. This happened a few months ago also after running the car, but hasnt occurred since. I thought there was an issue with the starter, so i removed it and then reinstalled it only to find that didn't help, so then i thought it had a dead battery and I let it sit for another day and the next time i went to start it, it cranked slowly then blew out a bunch of smoke from being too rich.
My question is, why does it lock up the engine?
Oh, and I did confirm that the heat riser is hanging up.
Thanks
Probably filling up a cylinder with fuel. Trying to start it with fuel in the cylinder can bend a rod.
Yup, number 8 was full. However, now that the car has fully cooled off, the heat riser is moving around freely. I guess the metal is expanding when it gets hot and just that little be of expansion is allowing it to hang up.
Yup, number 8 was full. However, now that the car has fully cooled off, the heat riser is moving around freely. I guess the metal is expanding when it gets hot and just that little be of expansion is allowing it to hang up.
My 65, when the previous owner (a friend of mine) owned it, had a bad carburetor on it and filled a cylinder (or more) with fuel. When an attempt was made to start the car, this happened:
Check the oil level in your crankcase now too, it may be "fuller" because it has gasoline in it. If this is the case change the oil before attempting to start the car again.
GOOD NIGHT! Mine will perk but I darn sure can't hear it with the air cleaner on AND the hood closed! It also won't dump fuel like that. You surely need to change your oil now.
Engine is screwed. Just put the plugs back in and started it and it is knocking like crazy.
The newly rebuilt 427 only had about 800 miles on it, max! Bad way to start a Monday! I just hope the block isnt damaged.
That's a shame. On my 65 they replaced the rod and piston assembly without removing the engine from the car. No block work was required BUT they didn't start the car once it hydralocked.
I spoke to the previous owner of my 65, he's also a coworker. He confirmed the rod was bent by the starter and that the head was removed but block left in place for the rod and piston replacement.
Unbelievable! I wonder if the stock 390hp rods are really weak? It's not like I have a high torque starter on the car....just a standard over the counter replacement.
I imagine the entire engine needs to come out to be inspected. If one bent, then there is the possibility that others were bent slightly the last time this happened.
My 65, when the previous owner (a friend of mine) owned it, had a bad carburetor on it and filled a cylinder (or more) with fuel. When an attempt was made to start the car, this happened:
I hope your engine is OK.
I would probably bid on it!
If I could get 3 more, then I would probably weld together a parts animal sculpture using the bent rods as legs!
Usually if I am smelling gas because of a condition (rare), pull the plugs and pull the coil wire and spin it on the starter. As was said above, definitely want to check the oil level also to make sure you don't have a Corvette grenade with the pan full of gas! I would rather pump it out of the cylinder with the compression. Darn put it in the headers and then start it, and have the U-tube camera ready for the impressive flame out the pipes. Sounds like a lot of fun!
It doesn't hurt to employ all of the tricks on a V-8 to insulate the carb, the lines, etc. and trick out the cooling system.
PS or put those rods back in for an effectively shorter stroke! Or maybe that is the special low deck height connecting rod setup?
Last edited by TCracingCA; May 5, 2014 at 05:57 PM.
Any authopsy results yet? Very unfortunate incident.
Not yet, I am currently working almost non-stop attempting to get the split window restomod ready to go back to the paint shop for it's doors, hood, and headlamp buckets.
Someone told me that it could just be a valve, but I don't see how that is possible since if the valve was open, the gas would have just sprayed back up into the intake or out the exhaust port. I suppose maybe it could have a bottle neck effect where only so much fluid could escape at one time under so much pressure and that could cause it???
I'll do a leak down check anyway, then pull the pan, then most likely be depressed for a little while after seeing a bent rod, then have a or two, then somehow manage to find the time to pull the engine out to send it off to have new rods installed and be balanced again.