Hopefully some of you engine experts can give me a little advise and point me in the right direction.

A contractor friend of mine is doing a remodel for a guy that is getting ready to sell off a collection of Chevy parts. He has about 20 BB Chevy engines (both 427 and 454) with one he said is an aluminum block engine.

My friend is going to take photos of all the pads tomorrow so I can see what he has.

I was looking at getting a 427 for my next build, but does the 454 have anything that would make it more desirable?

Assuming all other things are equal, I would take a four bolt main, but is there anything else that I should look for?

Is there any way, without looking at the pad, to determine the difference between a car and truck engine.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

IMHO if you don't care about casting numbers, what the stamp pad says and casting dates. Just go buy a brand new crate engine and forget about it

 

There is a lot to consider...and as Nowhere man said...if you aren't into the #'s ( Ive been both ways..rebuild one/acquire the components and internals... hire a machine shop, or go with a crate engine....I found the crate engine is affordable w/ warranty etc..

.if you have to round up all the parts,block,manifold,and all the rest can be a long process..but can be done...the crate is ready to go...some you just add the starter and carb...others members will perhaps add there comments...whats your budget?

 

I have also been both ways with BB and SB engines. Along the way I came across a guy in California that set me up with an exact MN 427-390 for my '66 for far less than if I found all the parts myself and had it rebuilt. I remember his name as "Alex" and possibly "Clewho" on ebay but he may go under a different name now. I'd have to dig out the invoices to find out for sure. He still list on the auction pages and I trust his work. Hot Rod mag even did an article on the family. If numbers do match there is a price for that but my '66 427 even has the std bore. There are aftermarket crate engines also but so far, one supplier is all I have gone to. Money buys horsepower... last time I checked an entry level can be had for under $5000 LB, up to 750 HP cost a bit more...duh!
Good luck. Also, the price I paid for my matching numbers was cheap, not to be had again for less than over twice what I paid on the auction.

 

To answer the OP's actual questions, the only thing a 454 has over a 427 is another 27 cubic inches (from a 4 inch vs 3.76 inch stroke). You will need a 454-specific flywheel and harmonic balancer because the 454 is externally balanced and the pistons have different wrist pin locations to adjust for the extra stroke. All the other parts are interchangeable.

Crate motors are usually a better value, as other posters have pointed out. Just be aware that some of the GM crate motors use Gen V or Gen VI blocks, which may not have a place for a mechanical fuel pump or a mounting hole for the clutch bellcrank pivot ball. You also need to check what heads come on the crate motor. GM's will have heads with exhaust ports in the stock location. Some of the aftermarket motors will have heads with raised exhaust ports.

 

When I did my 66 L-72 I kept the Original Motor out and installed a new GM 454 H.O.
Runs like a raped ape, pump gas, runs cool and sound great, no regrets

Fit's great, no issues

 

I think the first thing you want to decide is what you want out of the whole experience. Is it just the BB status? Is it the torque? Is it power? That all needs to be taken into consideration before making the purchase. I actually have several engines for my '69 Z28 and swap them like underware depending on how I will drive the car. The original 302 in put safely away so I won't blow it up.
If you want MPG keep to the low end and save money. If you want HP it cost more...all the way around..including stress on the car. A huge BB can tear out motor mounts and suspension if not set up correctly; but it is fun if the law can't catch you.
If your friend does have a good aluminum 427 that may be worth looking into. I would guess that it may be an L-88? Big bucks to rebuild and feed with high octane gas correctly but a great engine too. Beware of what you may find. Last year I found an LS6 sitting on the shelf of a local Chevy dealer and paid a lot for it trusting the company's reputation. Why did I want an LS6, no idea and it still sits in my storage waiting. BUT, my concern, from what I find GM stopped making LS6 in 1972. My crate engine is dated 1979. DUH?

So ask yourself what you want out of it before buying anything.

 

Thanks for all the input. There were a lot of good points that I didn't really think of.
I was more thinking about a future build. As he has complete engines, I would not have to look into finding matching parts, just rebuild the engine.
From what my friend has said, the owner said that he would sell me one for a few hundred dollars, or trade for my contractor to do some additional work.
It just seemed like a good deal. The engines were prepped for storage and have been kept indoors in a climate controlled building.
My friend is still trying to set up an appointment for me to come see them.
He said that the next chance he has, he will take some photos of the pads so I can start to determine what he has.

 

idcwmidi - When buying a used engine, there's more to consider than just the pedigree or stamped numbers. Buying a complete assembled engine, especially from a friend of a friend, can be dicey. You can't see internal cracks, corrosion, spun bearings/overheated mains, worn out valve guides, etc if all you're able to do is a visual of the exterior of the engine.
Mike T.

 

For a few hundred dollars you could part out a complete BB and make your money back.

Disclaimer

1=1
2=Couple
3=Few