65 throttle linkage issues
I had problems with factory holley 2818 carb. I got a holley 600 double pumper to replace. Throttle will not open all the way. I adjusted rod only causing other issues. Either way cant get pedal right? Any suggestions such as new rod or swivels? Engine is L79 350hp.
Last edited by 1965corvettecop; May 17, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
Nowhere Man may be on to something...
Holley 2818...

Holley "double-pumper"...
M(6+g~~_12.JPG)
Notice that the "float adjustment" screws on the double-pumper are not only taller, but they are in a different location than the ones on the 2818. Typical Corvette drop-base air cleaners will not clear the float adjustment screws on a double-pumper without modifying them with a few well placed taps from a body hammer.
Is the base possibly interfering with the linkage, or are you unable to get full throw with the base off of the carb?
Good luck... GUSTO
Holley 2818...
Holley "double-pumper"...
Notice that the "float adjustment" screws on the double-pumper are not only taller, but they are in a different location than the ones on the 2818. Typical Corvette drop-base air cleaners will not clear the float adjustment screws on a double-pumper without modifying them with a few well placed taps from a body hammer.
Is the base possibly interfering with the linkage, or are you unable to get full throw with the base off of the carb?
Good luck... GUSTO
Team Owner






Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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And not being able to make the original carb work really questions my thoughts on the person working on it.
ItE=Nowhere Ma4040]And not being able to make the original carb work really questions my thoughts on the person working on it.[/QUOTE
I Am running stock air cleaner... i sent factory carb off to best builder in country to restore. Still leaks after milling base plate full resto, and new metering block. I can rebuild it with my eyes closed. Tired of messing with it for now. But i know what i am doing.. anyway i posted thread as i cant be first to have linkage issues..
I Am running stock air cleaner... i sent factory carb off to best builder in country to restore. Still leaks after milling base plate full resto, and new metering block. I can rebuild it with my eyes closed. Tired of messing with it for now. But i know what i am doing.. anyway i posted thread as i cant be first to have linkage issues..
Team Owner






Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,103
Likes: 9,418
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Who is your best rebuilder?? Look on the underside of the air cleaner base and see if it's hitting
With linkage unhooked from carb do you have free travel?
Is the arm that comes out of firewall hitting the oil pressure line?
Does the carb open up without the butterflies hitting the manifold?
EDIT:
Also, when you look at the pics of the carbs provided, you'll notice that the location of the throttle linkage 'hookup' is clocked differently...I think your going to need a shorter 'rod/linkage'....
Is the arm that comes out of firewall hitting the oil pressure line?
Does the carb open up without the butterflies hitting the manifold?
EDIT:
Also, when you look at the pics of the carbs provided, you'll notice that the location of the throttle linkage 'hookup' is clocked differently...I think your going to need a shorter 'rod/linkage'....
Last edited by 66jack; May 17, 2014 at 10:06 PM.
I had problems with factory holley 2818 carb. I got a holley 600 double pumper to replace. Throttle will not open all the way. I adjusted rod only causing other issues. Either way cant get pedal right? Any suggestions such as new rod or swivels? Engine is L79 350hp.
Accelerator lever is loose and or worn on pedal rod D shaft. It is a pain to get to.
Check for worn pedal shaft, loose or incorrect lever.
John
Nowhere Man may be on to something...
Holley 2818...

Holley "double-pumper"...
M(6+g~~_12.JPG)
Notice that the "float adjustment" screws on the double-pumper are not only taller, but they are in a different location than the ones on the 2818. Typical Corvette drop-base air cleaners will not clear the float adjustment screws on a double-pumper without modifying them with a few well placed taps from a body hammer.
Is the base possibly interfering with the linkage, or are you unable to get full throw with the base off of the carb?
Good luck... GUSTO
Holley 2818...
Holley "double-pumper"...
Notice that the "float adjustment" screws on the double-pumper are not only taller, but they are in a different location than the ones on the 2818. Typical Corvette drop-base air cleaners will not clear the float adjustment screws on a double-pumper without modifying them with a few well placed taps from a body hammer.
Is the base possibly interfering with the linkage, or are you unable to get full throw with the base off of the carb?
Good luck... GUSTO
Nothing to do with air cleaner... cant get factory rod adjusted perfectly with double pumper, butterflies only go about 3/4. I checked with air cleaner off of course, cant even see with it on.
With linkage unhooked from carb do you have free travel?
Is the arm that comes out of firewall hitting the oil pressure line?
Does the carb open up without the butterflies hitting the manifold?
EDIT:
Also, when you look at the pics of the carbs provided, you'll notice that the location of the throttle linkage 'hookup' is clocked differently...I think your going to need a shorter 'rod/linkage'....
Is the arm that comes out of firewall hitting the oil pressure line?
Does the carb open up without the butterflies hitting the manifold?
EDIT:
Also, when you look at the pics of the carbs provided, you'll notice that the location of the throttle linkage 'hookup' is clocked differently...I think your going to need a shorter 'rod/linkage'....
Loosen the nut and rotate towards carb, but be careful, it might hit the bell housing or the oil pressure line...the 'angle of Lever to carb' might also be off if you rotate it to far....
Its worth a try...
EDIT:
What manifold are you running???
Last edited by 66jack; May 17, 2014 at 10:54 PM.
Most auto parts stores carry a small packet of nylon bushings for just this purpose in a variety of locations on cars designed to isolate and prevent metal to metal wear.
Good luck... GUSTO
Jack, unfortunately the interface between the "accelerator lever" and the "swivel rod" (pedal lever) is fixed (by the "D" shaped hole and corresponding flat on the swivel rod) and would likely only offer a few degrees of adjustment, if any.
Last edited by GUSTO14; May 17, 2014 at 11:01 PM.
It is the same... I am beginning to believe that I may have some worn parts in pedal shaft, even though car has been restored.. I bet those parts were overlooked. Thanks for the info., I was wondering if anyone else had success with DP.
If you could measure the lengths and use a little geometry, you could determine if it is possible to get the additional travel you need. Page 50 of the Paragon catalog shows all four levers at the top of the page in one image and this may give you an idea if either the '63 or '64/'65 levers would be helpful.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/corv...talog/c2/#50/z
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks for all the input! I found that accelerator lever was getting some interference from oil line, so I moved that. Now I have some play in lever bushing, so I am ordering that. Hopefully that will fix it. It appears to be correct accelerator lever, as 300 hp is little taller. Thanks again for help! Wish I knew how to post pics on here?
ItE=Nowhere Ma4040]And not being able to make the original carb work really questions my thoughts on the person working on it.[/QUOTE
I Am running stock air cleaner... i sent factory carb off to best builder in country to restore. Still leaks after milling base plate full resto, and new metering block. I can rebuild it with my eyes closed. Tired of messing with it for now. But i know what i am doing.. anyway i posted thread as i cant be first to have linkage issues..
I Am running stock air cleaner... i sent factory carb off to best builder in country to restore. Still leaks after milling base plate full resto, and new metering block. I can rebuild it with my eyes closed. Tired of messing with it for now. But i know what i am doing.. anyway i posted thread as i cant be first to have linkage issues..
Is the 2818 leaking form the base plate or other places. When does it leak, after hot shut down?? There are two other holes in the factory base plate that don't use screws and I believe the aftermarket Holleys use these holes. You wilkl need to tap the main body to use them but that may help.
Did the main body get milled, front back and bottom.












