Wire terminology
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Allyn WA
Wire terminology
I am thinking about pulling my cluster and doing an extension on the instrument lights. I read the thread about extending them and the thread about installing a disconnect plug. I am discovering that finding gray 20 gauge wire isn't easy. I am looking on the internet and they are using terms that I'm not certain about. Stranded I think is what I want - as opposed to solid wire. I want what is the closest to the gray wire that is in my wiring harness. I think that would be stranded, but the place I found calls it stranded hook up wire. Is that the right stuff?
Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Stranded wire when you look at it is made of many pieces of wire. That's what your harnes is made of. You should be able to walk into any type of place that sells wire and buy gray wire. To me what your doing is a lot of work for very little gain. How many times do plain on removing your cluster?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Des Moines, Iowa, USA Iowa
Any time you create a new connection there is risk of error. Taking every single wire from the cluster and adding an extension, soldered or crimped or whatever, there is risk that one or more of those connections will be a problem that wasn't already there. And the cluster still has tach and speedo connections, oil pressure line, so again, not sure you will gain much with this project 
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
Probably have more luck finding it in 18 gauge, and the extra current carrying capacity won't hurt.
Note that there are different insulations (both temperature and type of plastic), and a 105deg. C is minimum recommend for our automotive underhood applications, with 125 deg. C being better.
http://www.automotivewire.info/autom...rimarywire.htm
Another source for wire is your local junk (wrecking / salvage) yard. If it is a "pull it yourself" type yard, talk to the manager about you stripping the wiring harness out a "relatively modern" car or 2. The wiring harnesses are pretty protected in cars / trucks, and with some effort, a lot of wire can be had for that effort. And you will be assured that it is automotive grade wire, rather than some mystery wire off Ebay. Note however, that just about all automotive wires these days are "metric", so measure and use a slightly larger wire size.
Plasticman
Note that there are different insulations (both temperature and type of plastic), and a 105deg. C is minimum recommend for our automotive underhood applications, with 125 deg. C being better.
http://www.automotivewire.info/autom...rimarywire.htm
Another source for wire is your local junk (wrecking / salvage) yard. If it is a "pull it yourself" type yard, talk to the manager about you stripping the wiring harness out a "relatively modern" car or 2. The wiring harnesses are pretty protected in cars / trucks, and with some effort, a lot of wire can be had for that effort. And you will be assured that it is automotive grade wire, rather than some mystery wire off Ebay. Note however, that just about all automotive wires these days are "metric", so measure and use a slightly larger wire size.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; May 19, 2014 at 10:30 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
You're not seeking advice whether to undertake this project, but do consider that you have upwards of 9 instrument bulbs at 3 watts for a total of 27 watts on a circuit protected by a 4 amp fuse. The radio, cigarette lighter, ignition switch, clock, heater control panel, and radio dial are protected by the same 4 amp fuse that protects the instrument lights. So, there could be upwards of 41 watts on the circuit protected by the 4 amp fuse which leaves about 7 or so watts of excess capacity on that circuit (4 amps x 12 volts = 48 watts of capacity less 41 watts of load leaves 7 watts of capacity). By adding 9 or more connections and additional wire you will be adding more resistance i.e., more heat and current draw which could mean the 4 amp fuse may not handle the load. You'll be tempted to use a higher rated fuse which could be a recipe for a dash fire. And all the above is assuming there is no additional unaccounted for resistance at any of the points of interconnects i.e., fuse, instrument panel, wire connectors etc that add to the resistance which introduces more heat.
Last edited by KSL '67 101234; May 20, 2014 at 01:08 AM.
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From: Allyn WA
I appreciate all the advice and insight. I have had my cluster out and back in once w/o knowing about the rod extensions - that was a bitch. I have pulled it away from the dash using the rods a couple of time. There are at least 3 bulbs that are no longer in their holders - the ignition bulb for one. The overall look at night is a somewhat dark and uneven light distribution over the cluster. I haven't been able to get the access behind the cluster to make a solid fit of some of the bulb to the cluster.
I had read about people putting in brighter bulbs and then upgrading the fuse. this is the first I've heard of the higher amperage and the ability of 20 gauge wire to handle it. My knowledge of amperage. load, wattage and wire gauge is not impressive. I just want all the bulbs in their place in the cluster and the light from the cluster to look good at night.
I had read about people putting in brighter bulbs and then upgrading the fuse. this is the first I've heard of the higher amperage and the ability of 20 gauge wire to handle it. My knowledge of amperage. load, wattage and wire gauge is not impressive. I just want all the bulbs in their place in the cluster and the light from the cluster to look good at night.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
Search the C2 Forum for "Light switch rheostat smoking" which chronicles my light bulb issues that I dealt with last year. I've been driving trouble free for almost a year, with many nighttime driving hours. I did not use the dash bolt extension technique to "hang" the instrument cluster away from the dash. I was concerned about the sag placed on the dash from the weight of the instrument cluster and did not want to end up with a dash repair. Since I was adding AC to the car and needed access to the dash area I found it easier to remove the steering column to gain access to the instrument cluster. However, we're not created equal so if you are a tall man with some added weight since your high school days working on a C2's cluster can be a taxing job for many.
