Running temperature
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Instructor
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From: Phila Pa
Running temperature
I have a 63 roadster that has a 454 cu in big block. What should the normal operating temperature be? It is a 4 spd with no air or power steering. It normally runs about 200 to 210. Is this good or too high?
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
With the combination you have, I would be happy with 200-210 F.
That being said, I would verify the actual operating temperature with a quality IR thermometer.
If you don't have active vacuum advance running manifold vacuum source, I would strongly consider this to help bring the temperature down a bit…..especially at idle.
Make certain you have 55-60 percent AF solution and a 13-15 psig pressure cap in good working condition.
What radiator and radiator fan are you running??
The newer Vettes run 195-220 F all day on the street with zero problems.
Larry
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From: Phila Pa
With the combination you have, I would be happy with 200-210 F.
That being said, I would verify the actual operating temperature with a quality IR thermometer.
If you don't have active vacuum advance running manifold vacuum source, I would strongly consider this to help bring the temperature down a bit…..especially at idle.
Make certain you have 55-60 percent AF solution and a 13-15 psig pressure cap in good working condition.
What radiator and radiator fan are you running??
The newer Vettes run 195-220 F all day on the street with zero problems.
Larry
That being said, I would verify the actual operating temperature with a quality IR thermometer.
If you don't have active vacuum advance running manifold vacuum source, I would strongly consider this to help bring the temperature down a bit…..especially at idle.
Make certain you have 55-60 percent AF solution and a 13-15 psig pressure cap in good working condition.
What radiator and radiator fan are you running??
The newer Vettes run 195-220 F all day on the street with zero problems.
Larry
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From: Prescott Arizona
If you mean 'the' original radiator from '64, I'd guess it's past it's usefulness by now. Being a stacked plate radiator it's not going to be rebuildable but before we completely blame the radiator for these warm temps you're seeing, you really need to verify the actual temps with an IR gun. Quite a few places sell them and they are relatively cheap. Also, on the subject of a mechanical fan, you mean a 'fixed' fan or do you mean a steel bladed fan on a 'clutch unit'? A pic of your setup would help.
Mike T.
Mike T.
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From: Phila Pa
If you mean 'the' original radiator from '64, I'd guess it's past it's usefulness by now. Being a stacked plate radiator it's not going to be rebuildable but before we completely blame the radiator for these warm temps you're seeing, you really need to verify the actual temps with an IR gun. Quite a few places sell them and they are relatively cheap. Also, on the subject of a mechanical fan, you mean a 'fixed' fan or do you mean a steel bladed fan on a 'clutch unit'? A pic of your setup would help.
Mike T.
Mike T.
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I think the temp is pretty good, considering you have an undersized radiator on the car. My '67 L71 runs about those temps with a new DeWitt's aluminum made for a big block. I would put a fan clutch on it though, if I were you.
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From: Phila Pa
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Whether you install a 160F, 180F, or 195F, you are still running hotter than these thermostat set points. They should all be fully open, and therefore unable to lower your temperature. Unless you have one that is defective. You can check this.
Larry
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From: Milton GA
180F………………but that probably won't help your problem.
Whether you install a 160F, 180F, or 195F, you are still running hotter than these thermostat set points. They should all be fully open, and therefore unable to lower your temperature. Unless you have one that is defective. You can check this.
Larry
Whether you install a 160F, 180F, or 195F, you are still running hotter than these thermostat set points. They should all be fully open, and therefore unable to lower your temperature. Unless you have one that is defective. You can check this.
Larry
It could be a 195* stat and the gauge is slightly off, or it could be a 180 stat and the gauge is off even more, or the gauge could be accurate and he's got an issue. But he should do the free things first before spending $.
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From: Norcal CA
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
That's assuming his gauge is accurate. Until he determines that it's pointless.
It could be a 195* stat and the gauge is slightly off, or it could be a 180 stat and the gauge is off even more, or the gauge could be accurate and he's got an issue. But he should do the free things first before spending $.
It could be a 195* stat and the gauge is slightly off, or it could be a 180 stat and the gauge is off even more, or the gauge could be accurate and he's got an issue. But he should do the free things first before spending $.
Larry
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From: Phila Pa
Thanks for the help, that article was very informative and I learned quite a bit.