65 Coupe Door Hinge Pins
08-19-2014, 09:19 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
65 Coupe Door Hinge Pins
I have the front clip off of my 65 and I am going to replace the hinge pins. Without the front end, the hinges are completely exposed. Is it possible to change the hinge pins without removing the hinges from the car? It looks like I can just drive them out.
Thanks,
Doc
Thanks,
Doc
08-19-2014, 09:30 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Doc - Even with the front end still on, you can access the door hinge pins. Where did you get the new pins and bushings? About 6 years ago I picked up new parts from the local GM dealer. Both the pins and bushings were slightly different from the originals but still worked fine.
New parts on the left.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
New parts on the left.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
08-19-2014, 10:20 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I got the pins and bushings from Corvette Clinic in San Jose, CA. They look similar to the picture that you posted, but the end of the pin is not tapered as much. I know that it is not that hard to remove the hinge once you are at this point, but I was thinking that it would be nice to have the hinge firmly held in place when I try to drive the old pins out. I am just concerned that I might damage something else.
Doc
Doc
08-19-2014, 11:51 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Doc - You shouldn't have any problem driving out the old pins or bushings. The only tight spot is the interference fit at the top where the small splines are, under the head of the pin.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike T - Prescott AZ
08-19-2014, 12:14 PM
#5
Pro
Watson,
When I did mine I "double bushed" each hinge.
Notice how the repro bushings are shorter than the originals. Install first bushing then file the bronze flange off the top. Use an old bushing to drive new bushing down into the bore. Install second bushing on top of first. Repeat at other end. You now have 4 bushings in the bore and a lot more bearing area on the pin.
Also check the diameter of your original pins. They may be OK as the wear is on the bushings. My original pins were .001-.002 larger than the repro pins so I reused my originals.
Randy
When I did mine I "double bushed" each hinge.
Notice how the repro bushings are shorter than the originals. Install first bushing then file the bronze flange off the top. Use an old bushing to drive new bushing down into the bore. Install second bushing on top of first. Repeat at other end. You now have 4 bushings in the bore and a lot more bearing area on the pin.
Also check the diameter of your original pins. They may be OK as the wear is on the bushings. My original pins were .001-.002 larger than the repro pins so I reused my originals.
Randy
09-17-2014, 01:05 PM
#6
hello folks,
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
When I did mine I "double bushed" each hinge.
Notice how the repro bushings are shorter than the originals. Install first bushing then file the bronze flange off the top. Use an old bushing to drive new bushing down into the bore. Install second bushing on top of first. Repeat at other end. You now have 4 bushings in the bore and a lot more bearing area on the pin.
Also check the diameter of your original pins. They may be OK as the wear is on the bushings. My original pins were .001-.002 larger than the repro pins so I reused my originals.
Randy[/QUOTE]
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
When I did mine I "double bushed" each hinge.
Notice how the repro bushings are shorter than the originals. Install first bushing then file the bronze flange off the top. Use an old bushing to drive new bushing down into the bore. Install second bushing on top of first. Repeat at other end. You now have 4 bushings in the bore and a lot more bearing area on the pin.
Also check the diameter of your original pins. They may be OK as the wear is on the bushings. My original pins were .001-.002 larger than the repro pins so I reused my originals.
Randy[/QUOTE]
09-17-2014, 01:29 PM
#7
Race Director
[QUOTE=posum2;1587851798]hello folks,
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
You have to remove the doors and then the hinges from the body. Bolts holding hinges to body are accessible from inside car behind and above the kick panels.
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
You have to remove the doors and then the hinges from the body. Bolts holding hinges to body are accessible from inside car behind and above the kick panels.
09-17-2014, 01:44 PM
#8
[QUOTE=DansYellow66;1587851962]
Right, i just found the photo that shows the 2 inner bolts. will start this project soon. thank you
hello folks,
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
You have to remove the doors and then the hinges from the body. Bolts holding hinges to body are accessible from inside car behind and above the kick panels.
I am going to change the door pins and bushings on my 66 Roadster.
never done it on any car.
i can't see how you can drive the pins out when the hinge is about 5 inches inside the fender. it looks like no room, and the hinges don't come out easily either. appreciate any advice. thanks
You have to remove the doors and then the hinges from the body. Bolts holding hinges to body are accessible from inside car behind and above the kick panels.
Right, i just found the photo that shows the 2 inner bolts. will start this project soon. thank you
09-17-2014, 02:51 PM
#9
Team Owner
To the OP: If you haven't removed your doors yet then, when you do, take careful note of where any hinge shims are located and how many are used at specific locations. It'll save you mucho grief later on.
You have to remove the hinges to do it right IMO. I found the repro hinge repair kits from the Corvette vendors were crap...loose fitting. I used the Dorman 38400 kits which seemed to have a little beefier parts. Never thought about double-bushing them but wish I had (great idea)....but the single bushings lasted 50 years so the new ones will be somebody else's problem.
You don't have to hurt anything if you have a big "C" clamp, some sockets and some common sense...
You have to remove the hinges to do it right IMO. I found the repro hinge repair kits from the Corvette vendors were crap...loose fitting. I used the Dorman 38400 kits which seemed to have a little beefier parts. Never thought about double-bushing them but wish I had (great idea)....but the single bushings lasted 50 years so the new ones will be somebody else's problem.
You don't have to hurt anything if you have a big "C" clamp, some sockets and some common sense...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 09-17-2014 at 03:01 PM.
09-17-2014, 06:42 PM
#10
To the OP: If you haven't removed your doors yet then, when you do, take careful note of where any hinge shims are located and how many are used at specific locations. It'll save you mucho grief later on.
You have to remove the hinges to do it right IMO. I found the repro hinge repair kits from the Corvette vendors were crap...loose fitting. I used the Dorman 38400 kits which seemed to have a little beefier parts. Never thought about double-bushing them but wish I had (great idea)....but the single bushings lasted 50 years so the new ones will be somebody else's problem.
You don't have to hurt anything if you have a big "C" clamp, some sockets and some common sense...
You have to remove the hinges to do it right IMO. I found the repro hinge repair kits from the Corvette vendors were crap...loose fitting. I used the Dorman 38400 kits which seemed to have a little beefier parts. Never thought about double-bushing them but wish I had (great idea)....but the single bushings lasted 50 years so the new ones will be somebody else's problem.
You don't have to hurt anything if you have a big "C" clamp, some sockets and some common sense...
thanks, am not looking forward to the job but car needs pins so will do it after the winter starts up here, we had snow last week but 80 degrees again.
i put all the seat belt brackets on last month, the car was missing the 12 pieces.
i want to quieten the sidepipes down too if anyone knows a good fix.thx
09-17-2014, 06:47 PM
#11
Team Owner
63s didn't have sidepipes (that is what I own) -- so no help there.
You'll need to get your door hinges straightened out at some point so you can properly align the doors and have them shut correctly. Another problem area is the forward face of each door where the hinges mount inside...that area is riveted and if the rivets work loose it'll give you problems as well....it too can be fixed though.
You'll need to get your door hinges straightened out at some point so you can properly align the doors and have them shut correctly. Another problem area is the forward face of each door where the hinges mount inside...that area is riveted and if the rivets work loose it'll give you problems as well....it too can be fixed though.
09-17-2014, 08:16 PM
#12
63s didn't have sidepipes (that is what I own) -- so no help there.
You'll need to get your door hinges straightened out at some point so you can properly align the doors and have them shut correctly. Another problem area is the forward face of each door where the hinges mount inside...that area is riveted and if the rivets work loose it'll give you problems as well....it too can be fixed though.
You'll need to get your door hinges straightened out at some point so you can properly align the doors and have them shut correctly. Another problem area is the forward face of each door where the hinges mount inside...that area is riveted and if the rivets work loose it'll give you problems as well....it too can be fixed though.
ok thanks
am on my 3rd midyear, 27 years on this one though.
had a 63 coupe in 1981 and 63 convert in 1978.