Heater Core Fail
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 248
Likes: 10
From: Schererville IN
Heater Core Fail
1965 327/365
My heater core failed. I am going to bypass it for now and replace sometime in the future. I have read the various posts about the "heater delete" setup and want to go this route. However the bolt for the 5/8" hose fitting is frozen in the intake and won't budge. Can I put a cap/ clamp on the 5/8" hose fitting as it exits the intake, similar to the cap/ clamp on the 3/4" tee at the expansion tank? Or is the pressure too great for that?
Thanks in advance!
My heater core failed. I am going to bypass it for now and replace sometime in the future. I have read the various posts about the "heater delete" setup and want to go this route. However the bolt for the 5/8" hose fitting is frozen in the intake and won't budge. Can I put a cap/ clamp on the 5/8" hose fitting as it exits the intake, similar to the cap/ clamp on the 3/4" tee at the expansion tank? Or is the pressure too great for that?
Thanks in advance!
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I have mine bypassed with a short hose, from 'send' to 'return'.
Heater core is on order .. but project creep is already well established!
I have read that it's possible to trap air if you just cap it... but no first hand experience with that.
Heater core is on order .. but project creep is already well established!
I have read that it's possible to trap air if you just cap it... but no first hand experience with that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,730
Likes: 92
From: Lakeland FL
Just cut the hoses and plug them off for now. Research the best ways to loosen up your fitting. If I remember right, the one using candle wax worked surprisingly well.
Guess you might use a heater more up there than down here in FL..
Guess you might use a heater more up there than down here in FL..
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 248
Likes: 10
From: Schererville IN
I haven't read that about trapping air. Seems the situation would be the same whether capped or plugged w/ a bolt like the factory "heater delete" option. I had mine bypassed by connecting the hoses but it doesn't look pretty, so I decided to go this route. I don't really need the heater - don't drive it in the winter. So my initial question is just wondering if the cap/ clamp can withstand the pressure of the system. I have it hooked up that way now - I'll drive it a while and see how it holds up. Thanks for your responses.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Washington Michigan
Last edited by JohnZ; Aug 23, 2014 at 03:54 PM.
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From: Carmel CA
This is a bit off topic, but you may want to be aware of it. A buddy of mine who owns an auto parts store recently told me that he has seen a large number of new heater cores that leak. When I asked a mechanic friend, he said the same thing. I was going to put a new core in my 65 project just because I am already there. Now I plan to have the new core tested by a radiator shop before I button it up. The core is a pain in the rear to change after everything is back together.
Doc
Doc
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From: Del Boca Vista FL
This is a bit off topic, but you may want to be aware of it. A buddy of mine who owns an auto parts store recently told me that he has seen a large number of new heater cores that leak. When I asked a mechanic friend, he said the same thing. I was going to put a new core in my 65 project just because I am already there. Now I plan to have the new core tested by a radiator shop before I button it up. The core is a pain in the rear to change after everything is back together.
Doc
Doc
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 248
Likes: 10
From: Schererville IN
I have also read that the new cores may leak, and many suggest doing a pressure test on them before installation. Also need to be careful during install to not break the solder joints, and not to crush the copper lead pipes on the core by over-tightening the hose clamps.