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I'm guessing you are working on a C2? If so, there is a terminal on the fuse panel marked "BAT".
yes a c2 , hence the 1Redctoo handle, and thanks 'cause I used that Bat hookup in the fuse panel . I don't think it has ever been used before. the one next to it is connected to my pwr windows relay .
yes a c2 , hence the 1Redctoo handle, and thanks 'cause I used that Bat hookup in the fuse panel . I don't think it has ever been used before. the one next to it is connected to my pwr windows relay .
I use these little spuds to tap into the fuse box.
Ok, so the "bat" connection on the fuse box worked for the 12v switch current to the relay. Now I have the 30a fused line from the fan to the relay hooked up to the actual pos battery post . I don't like the look of the extra wire on the post , it detracts from the original style battery cable ,so I want to relocate it . I'm thinking of running it down to where the battery cable connects to the starter . This should work right ? And it's hot all the time so I can run the fan with the car turned off .
Wire the high-amp line to the horn relay -- that is where the voltage regulator 'senses' the voltage to provide proper regulation for the alternator and its a main power buss for the car. This will make your dash gauge work properly and provide the right amount of regulation. You can go to the technical section at www.madelectrical.com and read about the rationale yourself.
If you're crafty you can hide the wire until its nearly invisible as I've done with my A/C power lead at the horn relay.
Frankie the find , thanks for the link , I read it and I take it that the horn relay must connect somehow to the voltage sensing wire in the voltage regulator. So, it would be fine to connect to my fan high amp pwr feed to the horn relay and still have the guage function properly , etc.
I have a replacement electronic regulator that looks like the original Delco regulator and a 61amp alternator .
I noticed on the horn relay there are two post on the bottom , one of which is unused. Is this where I'd connect the fan pwr wire ?
Frankie the find , thanks for the link , I read it and I take it that the horn relay must connect somehow to the voltage sensing wire in the voltage regulator. So, it would be fine to connect to my fan high amp pwr feed to the horn relay and still have the guage function properly , etc.
I have a replacement electronic regulator that looks like the original Delco regulator and a 61amp alternator .
I noticed on the horn relay there are two post on the bottom , one of which is unused. Is this where I'd connect the fan pwr wire ?
You connect power feeds to the two screw terminals - that buss is the power distribution point for the whole car. The two spade terminals on the bottom that accept 56-series plastic connectors are for the horn button ground wire and the green wire that feeds the horns.
You connect power feeds to the two screw terminals - that buss is the power distribution point for the whole car. The two spade terminals on the bottom that accept 56-series plastic connectors are for the horn button ground wire and the green wire that feeds the horns.
John Z - I thought that was the case . Now I wondering , can the horn relay take a 40 amp load ? Spal fans recommend using a 40 amp fuse with this particular fan I've installed .
I had a temporary Bubby type connection to the post battery post using 12ga wire and a 30 amp fuse . I drove the car and everything seemed to work fine with the engine running , then I shut the car off and ran the fan and it blew the inline fuse and the 12 ga wire to the fuse was pretty hot.
I have 10ga wire I could wire to the horn relay with a 40amp fuse instead. Will that be too much of a load on the horn relay and its wiring ?
John Z - I thought that was the case . Now I wondering , can the horn relay take a 40 amp load ? Spal fans recommend using a 40 amp fuse with this particular fan I've installed .
I had a temporary Bubby type connection to the post battery post using 12ga wire and a 30 amp fuse . I drove the car and everything seemed to work fine with the engine running , then I shut the car off and ran the fan and it blew the inline fuse and the 12 ga wire to the fuse was pretty hot.
I have 10ga wire I could wire to the horn relay with a 40amp fuse instead. Will that be too much of a load on the horn relay and its wiring ?
The horn relay doesn't have any electrical components affected by the current flowing through the buss bar with the two fillister-head screw terminals - that hunk of metal is simply a junction point between the battery and alternator. If you're going to run a 40-amp load for that fan, you should set it up through a relay that connects it directly to the battery, taking the high-current load off the stock wiring.
So this is where you started off in post #8. Mad Electric offers their #CN-1 junction block to deal with these hi power additions which is another alternative. Which also requires beefing up the alternator wiring with their kit.
All of which is why I didn't do an electric fan on my '63 A/C upgrade. I put in a 17-1/2" 6 blade fan and heavy duty Hayes fan clutch and problem solved.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 31, 2014 at 03:29 PM.
So , I have a 40 amp fan Relay that has the 'switched " side wired to the "bat" out let of the fuse box inside the car on the drivers side floorboard.This works fine . Then, the other side of the Relay is wired to the fan with 12 ga wire (high amp circuit) from the battery post .
If I'm reading these responses correctly, if I wire the high amp circuit thru the horn relay , I take a chance of burning up the original wiring .
If I wire it directly to the cars battery then the voltage regulator plays no function with this particular circuit .(from the article Frakie the Fink directed me to).
And what if I wire the high amp side fan relay to the battery connection at the Starter ?
I was really happy with the new fan cooling the engine at low speed while cruising today at 95 degrees outside . Now I'm bummed .
You can wire it straight to the battery and just deal with the whacky ammeter readings or upgrade the alternator to battery wiring and use the Mad Electric #CN-1 kit for a horn relay connection and the ammeter will read fine and alternator charge more accurately.
I would do the latter because I can't stand cockpit gauges that don't reflect reality.
Nothing to be bummed out about.