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I swapped out a Rochester Quardrajet for a completely rebuilt/date correct Carter WCFB on my '62 327 250 HP engine. I've had nothing but trouble ever since. And it's hard finding somebody that knows old school carburetors. Anyway I've finally got my '62 running with the carb but driving anywhere from 3500-4500 RPM the engine falls flat. If the car is stationary or in neutral I can rev the engine to 5500RPM with no problem. I can't figure this thing out. Any advise would be appreciated, and I'm hoping it's something simple that I can do myself.....Thanks in advance.
Some troubleshooting WCFB info - I'd focus on item #4 as a first step.
There are still gurus left on these old carbs: Robbie Kunz, Chuck Smith, Ron at www.daytonaparts.com and others.
Some troubleshooting WCFB info - I'd focus on item #4 as a first step.
There are still gurus left on these old carbs: Robbie Kunz, Chuck Smith, Ron at www.daytonaparts.com and others.
Don't forget Robbie's dad, Bob Kunz, the original WCFB guru - he posted on the NCRS Board last week that he was NOT dead or retired, as some posters had thought, and was still actively doing (and soliciting) carburetor work.
Since the carb has already been rebuilt, my first thought is your float level may be set a tad too low. I have rebuilt many of these (and AFB's) and what you need to do is remove the air horn and check the float level settings. My guess is you have a lean condition which can easily be corrected by someone who knows what they are doing (30 mins if I had the car here). I use the original Kent - Moore tools when I work on them, but that is not a must as long as accurate measurements can be obtained. Are you trying to fix this yourself or just looking for where to send it? Once you get this straightened out, the WCFB is pretty much bullet proof and runs fine on today's gas as well. Sounds like a simple adjustment, fix it, you will be glad you did in the long run. Pilot Dan
Which is what item 4(e) in the troubleshooting chart above refers to (low floats) -- but don't discount the other causes in that category. They are equally applicable.
And 'rebuilt' can mean a lot of things...some good, some not..
One other thing I notice is the glass bowl fuel filter (in front of the fuel inlet) your air horn appears to be the type that already incorporates a fuel filter. You don't wan't 2 filters in line (which could restrict fuel flow), make sure. In 63 and later versions of the WCFB for 250 HP 327 engines they did away altogether with the internal filters.
Last edited by Pilot Dan; Sep 12, 2014 at 09:48 PM.
Which is what item 4(e) in the troubleshooting chart above refers to (low floats) -- but don't discount the other causes in that category. They are equally applicable.
And 'rebuilt' can mean a lot of things...some good, some not..
Frank,
I know how to read a chart, but unlike you, I also actually work on them. Thanks for the advise.
I didn't set out to challenge your advice. Didn't want the OP to get 'target fixation' with one possible cause of his problem - it happens.
As to me working on carbs; errr....right. Never had one apart... I have 6 WCFBs and 3 AFBs on cars or on the shelf right now. This doesn't count the ones I've rebuilt and sold.
I will send them out for refinishing, rebushing of throttle shafts, fixing warpage (I don't have a machine shop) -- everything else happens right on my work bench.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 13, 2014 at 10:34 AM.
One other thing I notice is the glass bowl fuel filter (in front of the fuel inlet) your air horn appears to be the type that already incorporates a fuel filter. You don't wan't 2 filters in line (which could restrict fuel flow), make sure. In 63 and later versions of the WCFB for 250 HP 327 engines they did away altogether with the internal filters.
Thanks Dan...The first thing I did was remove the internal fuel filter. While this might of helped...it opened a "can of worms" now the carb is leaking fuel at the inlet fuel filter nut. I'm not the greatest mechanic, but I know how to tighten a nut, and it's still leaking! I LOVE my car and I know it's a hobby ..but I had to walk away from it (PIA)
In worse case scenario...Anybody recommend a qualified mechanic in the Pittsburgh, PA area that KNOWS C1 Corvettes???
Last edited by corvette-62; Sep 13, 2014 at 07:07 PM.
Thanks Dan...The first thing I did was remove the internal fuel filter. While this might of helped...it opened a "can of worms" now the carb is leaking fuel at the inlet fuel filter nut. I'm not the greatest mechanic, but I know how to tighten a nut, and it's still leaking! I LOVE my car and I know it's a hobby ..but I had to walk away from it (PIA)
In worse case scenario...Anybody recommend a qualified mechanic in the Pittsburgh, PA area that KNOWS C1 Corvettes???
That inlet connection requires a flare type connector where it screws in. I can't tell from your picture if your connection is strait piped in or not, but if it had an internal filter, the connection should be a flare fitting to the carb and then you can adapt it to the glass bowl. If that's the case, the correct fitting should fix your leak. Later WCFB's could be plumbed strait in to the carb with a plain pipe thread as the first picture below shows because GM changed the design of the air horn and in let (finally got it right). It was real easy to break the casting while trying to un do the big nut to replace the filter and many a mechanic broke them . Second photo shows the improved stronger design which also had a recessed O ring. I have upgraded a few early carbs for people with the later style air horns and they work great.
Last edited by Pilot Dan; Sep 13, 2014 at 10:59 PM.
Reason: added photo
It was real easy to break the casting while trying to un do the big nut to replace the filter and many a mechanic broke them .
SAY WHAT??!!...Seriously..I appreciate all the advice and info. Here's where I stand. I haven't messed around with it anymore..but I did check for any cracks in the casting around the inlet using a mirror. I hope that it was good luck that nothing was found. I'm hoping that I merely cross threaded the inlet nut. It's getting near the end of the season here in PA, and I want to take my time with this. Again, in a worse case scenario can my '62 WCFB be retrofitted to a later WCFB which could be plumbed strait in to the carb? I'm assuming this would cost a lot less than a core swap for another '62 WCFB.
[B]SAY WHAT??!
Problems with '62 wcfb
Pilot Dan
I have 6 WCFBs and 3 AFBs on cars or on the shelf right now. This doesn't count the ones I've rebuilt and sold.
