Timing question
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,553
Likes: 138
Timing question
If I were off one tooth when I installed the dist. and I have it as far as it will go to retard at 12 degrees.Without removing the dist.would I have to move the wires clockwise or counter clockwise???To obtain the correct timing at 8 degrees????
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
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From: Washington Michigan
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,553
Likes: 138
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
You may be having some trouble getting the distributor in the correct position because your oil pump drive slot was moved when the distributor was pulled. If you're off one tooth advanced, try moving the oil pump a little bit clockwise with a long screwdriver or an oil pump priming tool. It is possible to pull the distributor with the wire braid lugs still connected to the distributor shield support brackets.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 376
From: Mobile AL
I doubt you can get there that way.
Moving the wires effectively rotates the distributor 45 degrees. Moving the distributor one tooth on the cam rotates it ~28 degrees (I think). Both of these steps might rotate the distributor too far. You may have to remove the distributor bottom gear and rotate it 180 degrees. That will effectively rotate the distributor ~14 degrees.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,797
Likes: 239
From: Ocean Township NJ
Moving the wires effectively rotates the distributor 45 degrees. Moving the distributor one tooth on the cam rotates it ~28 degrees (I think). Both of these steps might rotate the distributor too far. You may have to remove the distributor bottom gear and rotate it 180 degrees. That will effectively rotate the distributor ~14 degrees.
There are 13 teeth on the driven gear.
Distributor degrees x 2 = crank degrees
Rotate wire one tower:
720/8 = 90 crank degrees
Move distributor 1 tooth:
720/13 = 55 crank degrees
Rotate dist driven gear 180 degrees:
[720/13]/2 = 27.5 crank degrees
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 18
From: Dixon California
dizzy position
I had similar problem...could not get the 8* desired....vacume pod was in contact with shielding...easy solution move dizzy one tooth...8* is a important number at least on my L71...moved it one tooth and it didn't drop all the way ...simlly bump the starter and VIOLA...now at 8* it idles at 750 rpm and shuts off and starts right up...shielding looks good but there are inherient problems....shorting out at coil wire and top shielding cover..cutting wire at bottom of shielding..need some edge protection there .holds in heat.
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,553
Likes: 138
I had similar problem...could not get the 8* desired....vacume pod was in contact with shielding...easy solution move dizzy one tooth...8* is a important number at least on my L71...moved it one tooth and it didn't drop all the way ...simlly bump the starter and VIOLA...now at 8* it idles at 750 rpm and shuts off and starts right up...shielding looks good but there are inherient problems....shorting out at coil wire and top shielding cover..cutting wire at bottom of shielding..need some edge protection there .holds in heat.
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z