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If I were off one tooth when I installed the dist. and I have it as far as it will go to retard at 12 degrees.Without removing the dist.would I have to move the wires clockwise or counter clockwise???To obtain the correct timing at 8 degrees????
If I were off one tooth when I installed the dist. and I have it as far as it will go to retard at 12 degrees.Without removing the dist.would I have to move the wires clockwise or counter clockwise???To obtain the correct timing at 8 degrees????
Why not just re-stab the distributor correctly? Only takes a couple of minutes.
You need to move the wires one hole counterclockwise. That should advance the timing too far, and then you can turn the distributor clockwise to get your timing in spec.
You may be having some trouble getting the distributor in the correct position because your oil pump drive slot was moved when the distributor was pulled. If you're off one tooth advanced, try moving the oil pump a little bit clockwise with a long screwdriver or an oil pump priming tool. It is possible to pull the distributor with the wire braid lugs still connected to the distributor shield support brackets.
If I were off one tooth when I installed the dist. and I have it as far as it will go to retard at 12 degrees.Without removing the dist.would I have to move the wires clockwise or counter clockwise???To obtain the correct timing at 8 degrees????
Moving the wires effectively rotates the distributor 45 degrees. Moving the distributor one tooth on the cam rotates it ~28 degrees (I think). Both of these steps might rotate the distributor too far. You may have to remove the distributor bottom gear and rotate it 180 degrees. That will effectively rotate the distributor ~14 degrees.
Moving the wires effectively rotates the distributor 45 degrees. Moving the distributor one tooth on the cam rotates it ~28 degrees (I think). Both of these steps might rotate the distributor too far. You may have to remove the distributor bottom gear and rotate it 180 degrees. That will effectively rotate the distributor ~14 degrees.
There are 13 teeth on the driven gear.
Distributor degrees x 2 = crank degrees
I had similar problem...could not get the 8* desired....vacume pod was in contact with shielding...easy solution move dizzy one tooth...8* is a important number at least on my L71...moved it one tooth and it didn't drop all the way ...simlly bump the starter and VIOLA...now at 8* it idles at 750 rpm and shuts off and starts right up...shielding looks good but there are inherient problems....shorting out at coil wire and top shielding cover..cutting wire at bottom of shielding..need some edge protection there .holds in heat.
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z
Originally Posted by prestige6
This is the way I got it and all the shielding is on.
I had similar problem...could not get the 8* desired....vacume pod was in contact with shielding...easy solution move dizzy one tooth...8* is a important number at least on my L71...moved it one tooth and it didn't drop all the way ...simlly bump the starter and VIOLA...now at 8* it idles at 750 rpm and shuts off and starts right up...shielding looks good but there are inherient problems....shorting out at coil wire and top shielding cover..cutting wire at bottom of shielding..need some edge protection there .holds in heat.
I have rechromed shielding but after initinal installation,(coill bracket was not letting coil go down far enough and shorting problems I left it off for now...agree w/ John Z
I did the same thing,but I had to remove all the shielding and the grounds. Timing is set at 8 degrees. Now to tackle putting the shielding back on which is a BIG PITA..