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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 07:44 AM
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Default Speedometer question

Hi all,

I need to pull the speedometer/trip meter, since the odometer and trip meter do not work. I have seen the articles on taking out the cluster, but I wonder: Can the speedometer alone be taken out of the cluster by someone who is not a contortionist? My other instruments work and are in nice shape and I'd rather not take out the cluster, send the speedometer out to be fixed, and have the car not drivable for 2-3 weeks.

thanks,

Mark
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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Nope. Remove cluster as one unit. After you remove the steering column its not thst hateful of a job
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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I literally JUST did this two days ago on my '63. I had a known good speedometer to swap in to the cluster and it fixed all my odometer/trip problems....sooo no down time for the car.

No, you cannot get the speedo out without pulling the cluster. Only you can decide if that's worth it to you. While the cluster is out then you may as well rebuild the brake/clutch ***'y, check firewall insulation, dash harness, etc.. You get the idea.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 11:06 AM
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I'd definitely get it fixed. There's no way I'd ever buy an older vehicle where the odometer doesn't work. Way too many questions get raised right off the bat.

I'd probably wait until driving season is over though.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Folks that know the C2 frailty of the odometer/trip meter setup would probably discount its non-operation for a purchase, some may not though. These old odometers can be flipped back to whatever you like so depending on their accuracy for purchase is a toss-up.

In my case my restored cluster had the odometer break at "00000" and it just looked damn silly. I couldn't stand it so I went in and bit the bullet and fixed it. I also vowed to NEVER push in that trip meter reset button again. That's what broke it the first time.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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I installed a bracket suggested by GUSTO that keeps that trip meter reset button pushed up thereby eliminating those extra gears that can cause premature odometer gear wear. It seemed to make sense and so far so good. Anyone else using this method? Opinions?

Gary
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Now that I'm versed on the inside of C2 clusters.... If you picture an old covered wagon rear axle with the two large wooden wheels on it that is what drives both the odometer and trip meter off the speedometer; the bracket to keep the reset **** pushed up disengages the trip meter from the secondary wheel on that axle reducing the load on the gear train and speedometer by approximately half I'd say.

I can't foretell for certain if it extends the life of the setup or not but I'm staying original for now and letting things work as designed.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Folks that know the C2 frailty of the odometer/trip meter setup would probably discount its non-operation for a purchase, some may not though. These old odometers can be flipped back to whatever you like so depending on their accuracy for purchase is a toss-up.

In my case my restored cluster had the odometer break at "00000" and it just looked damn silly. I couldn't stand it so I went in and bit the bullet and fixed it. I also vowed to NEVER push in that trip meter reset button again. That's what broke it the first time.
I thought I was the only one who had something weird like that happen...broke exactly at 61,000. It's on the agenda this winter
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by champs65
I thought I was the only one who had something weird like that happen...broke exactly at 61,000. It's on the agenda this winter
They ALL broke at 60,000 (+/- 1,000).
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
They ALL broke at 60,000 (+/- 1,000).
Actually, many broke before 60,000 miles. My first ’67 speedo broke in 1969 – it was roughly 2½ years old – in the 30,000 mile range. Unfortunately, the C2 speedometer design was not very robust.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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My speedometer gears didn't fail, but the needle recently fell off at about 107,000 miles. I pulled gauge cluster+wiper motor and shipped to Corv. Specialties MD. West for their rebuild/re-condition service (not NCRS quality). They recently returned it and it looks great. However, it was in their shop for about 12 weeks- lib
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary's '66
I installed a bracket suggested by GUSTO that keeps that trip meter reset button pushed up thereby eliminating those extra gears that can cause premature odometer gear wear. It seemed to make sense and so far so good. Anyone else using this method? Opinions?

Gary
After a cluster/speedo/odometer rebuild the trip meter was disengaged via a 'Z' bar. I've been running mine that way over the last two years - about 5000 miles with no problem.
The trip meter portion of the odometer really adds significant strain to the tiny gear works that make the speedo/odometer tick. ..
The odometer will continue to function normally, sans trip meter. Worth, doing, IMO.
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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We bit the bullet and 'took out' the cluster. My friend and I have had a hobby car restoration business -- this is our second car. (But I like this 65 Corvette so much that I will keep it.) I am the money/parts/scheduler guy, he is the mechanic. (He worked for 40 years in the industry). It took him 30 minutes to get the steering column out and the cluster pulled. Looking back there, after the speedometer and tach are out, we can see that every light is getting replaced, 4-5 wires need proper splicing, it was an electrical mess around those wires, and the speedometer and also the clock need to be fixed. I think the clock is out in this picture. I ordered all new bulbs and we'll do a general cleaning. The clock is on its way this morning to a clock shop, and the speedometer is going into a local shop which knows how to do them (and where my friend has a relationship).


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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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Not to be a smart azz, but if he pulled the column why is it still in the car? Also do you plan on removing the cluster? If not you should so you can clean the lenses and replace gaskets.

Last edited by Gary's '66; Oct 18, 2014 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 12:15 AM
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You are being a smart azz...it is on the floor and out of our way so that the cluster could be removed --- which is the point of the exercise.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 01:22 AM
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Now you're being the smart azz! I only asked because normally it's unbolted at the spline then pulled completely out of the cockpit which allows for much more room to work in and would have taken all of 3 more minutes of that 30 minute tear down. I was only curious as to why you left it in the car!

Last edited by Gary's '66; Oct 19, 2014 at 01:26 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Gary,

Work is mostly being done by my buddy, he did stuff like this for 40 years professionally. I guess he is saving 5 minutes by leaving it there. It did not get in his way when he was working on the cluster. If I asked him why he left it, he'd probably just ask me why I would want to remove it.

Mark
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 08:39 AM
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IN ANY EVENT -- is that writing behind the cluster on the birdcage horizontal rail ? E.g. "077"; perhaps the daily job number ? Or, am I just imagining things ?
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by msk914
Gary,

Work is mostly being done by my buddy, he did stuff like this for 40 years professionally. I guess he is saving 5 minutes by leaving it there. It did not get in his way when he was working on the cluster. If I asked him why he left it, he'd probably just ask me why I would want to remove it.

Mark
Mark

I understand. The only reason l brought it up is the fact that while it may not have been an issue during tear down it's a different ball game for reassembly. Only trying to be helpful.

Gary
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
IN ANY EVENT -- is that writing behind the cluster on the birdcage horizontal rail ? E.g. "077"; perhaps the daily job number ? Or, am I just imagining things ?
Typically, a number in that location is an A.O. Smith job number.
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