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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:03 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
My debates have all been on the race track, with the "Walts Puffers"...National Champions record holding drag cars.....All gapped at .035...

Emission engines with converters, air pumps, wide gaps, high tempertures. ect. ect {up to .080} were the product of the governments attempts at controlling so called dirty cars...One big reason the 1970 Vetters never got the LS-7 engines and as a result HP started to drop all across the board no matter what brand of autos.....Hell, Vettes even were sold with 305 engines and no 4 speeds....

But if you have one of those no power Vettes gap them wherever you like...I guess it don't matter....But the HP years of the late 50`s and 60`s all used .035 didn`t they........
When I raced on the street or at the track, with standard ignition, I used 0.032 inch. Always clean plugs, never any miles on them. That was the best for me and my car.

Motion's Phase III CD system used 0.040 inch. A few of these Motion cars were also record setting.

The optimum spark plug gap depends on what you are running and the ignition system in your car. Was the phase III system a better system than stock?? If so, then 0.040 is the proper gap.

Did you ever dyno your race cars with different spark plugs, heat ranges, and different gaps?? What are/were the results of those runs.?? If not, then the result is unknown.

My point is that there is no one system or spark plug gap that is optimum for all cars under all conditions. That is "the debate" I was referring to.

I agree, that for most 1960's SHP cars under most conditions, 0.035 inch was a good factory recommended setting.

Larry

Last edited by Powershift; Jan 6, 2015 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:52 PM
  #42  
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Google both "Walts Puffers" and "Images of Walts Puffers"

you may find it interesting...it may lead you all over......a few.pictures and articles will maybe answer your questions

Wally Knoch
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 12:29 AM
  #43  
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Default i gap at 40 but

i index my plugs, I side gap but shape the tips with the MSD hot stuff on fully worked chambers etc. minimum squelch or howlever u spel it, and custom relatively flat top pistons riding on long rods.

PS I only posted to give MikeM something to do for the next 5 or 6 posts (giving him enough to work with)!:cheer s:

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
i index my plugs, I side gap but shape the tips with the MSD hot stuff on fully worked chambers etc. minimum squelch or howlever u spel it, and custom relatively flat top pistons riding on long rods.

PS I only posted to give MikeM something to do for the next 5 or 6 posts (giving him enough to work with)!:cheer s:
If "Ollie" chimes in he's gonna tell you that if Chevy designed it that way in 1955, then there's no reason to change it because the state of the art has not advanced beyond what it was 60 years ago.

I used to index plugs. Difference, if any, is so small that it wasn't worth the effort.

Squelch is for walkie talkies. Quench is for engines.
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 06:18 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Your VH box is full too.....................

And he Never called anyway.....
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 06:51 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Viet Nam Vett
And he Never called anyway.....
I forgot. I have your number stored in my phone. John gave it to me. When I get ready to hook it up, your phone will ring! Got a question on TV's too!

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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 03:37 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I forgot. I have your number stored in my phone. John gave it to me. When I get ready to hook it up, your phone will ring! Got a question on TV's too!

Ok...Now Clean Out Your CF PM Box
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 04:04 PM
  #48  
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Default The slippery slope!

Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
If "Ollie" chimes in he's gonna tell you that if Chevy designed it that way in 1955, then there's no reason to change it because the state of the art has not advanced beyond what it was 60 years ago.

I used to index plugs. Difference, if any, is so small that it wasn't worth the effort.

Squelch is for walkie talkies. Quench is for engines.
I try to add a word a day to my vocabulary, but on occasion a particular word causes an extra day to learn!

I'll take that one extra horsepower or whatever I can gain. Yes minimal gain in HP, but everyone has to weigh the benefit of expended effort/cost to gain. I like to tinker (learned that one word on December 16th, 1967 I think at 5:23pm (tinker). But the slippery slope is next you will feel why balance and blueprint, why get the precise air in the tires, etc...
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 04:58 PM
  #49  
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High end racers all index the plugs so the spark plug gaps face the intake charge.
It makes a difference but takes time so other than high end racers nobody does it.
The amount of difference made is very small but free horse power is always hard to find.
I would bet on a 450HP engine indexing is good for no more than 1-5 HP but it is totally free and available to anybody willing to index. As far as gaps go If running standard OEM ignition run the factory recommended gap. If you have converted to an HEI or other super high voltage system you can run .045 and get some advantage mostly at idle. GM did play around with gaps up to .080 but came back down to .045 over the years. GM also reduced voltage over the years, they were as high as 50-60,000 volts in the 1990's but now are around 20,000 volts with current Coil on Plug technology firing Iridium plugs. Iridium plugs fire well with lower voltage than the Platinum plugs they replaced. Modern engines using OBD2 detect misfires at idle and the wider gaps, .060 and .080 had too many misfires detected at idle and caused issues for GM.
I was late to join this party, I need to Thank you guys for the entertaining posts.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 05:12 PM
  #50  
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Default i gap at 40, deja vu-- it seems like i have said that before!

Originally Posted by Westlotorn
High end racers all index the plugs so the spark plug gaps face the intake charge.
It makes a difference but takes time so other than high end racers nobody does it.
The amount of difference made is very small but free horse power is always hard to find.
I would bet on a 450HP engine indexing is good for no more than 1-5 HP but it is totally free and available to anybody willing to index. As far as gaps go If running standard OEM ignition run the factory recommended gap. If you have converted to an HEI or other super high voltage system you can run .045 and get some advantage mostly at idle. GM did play around with gaps up to .080 but came back down to .045 over the years. GM also reduced voltage over the years, they were as high as 50-60,000 volts in the 1990's but now are around 20,000 volts with current Coil on Plug technology firing Iridium plugs. Iridium plugs fire well with lower voltage than the Platinum plugs they replaced. Modern engines using OBD2 detect misfires at idle and the wider gaps, .060 and .080 had too many misfires detected at idle and caused issues for GM.
I was late to join this party, I need to Thank you guys for the entertaining posts.
In the hot cylinder head that gap will grow to about 45, after cold setting at about 40! Also i even index a little different in that i turn them slightly toward the exhaust valve some or realistically my setting is toward the largest cross section of the chamber, based on the flow being pulled in and the turbulence from the intake and ram that basically loads up the mixture on the exhaust valve side of the chamber and plus you have essentialyl the mixture rebounding off of the far chamber wall. And my intake valve is large at 2.05 and that bowl side where that intake is fitted is tight relative to the exhaust side of the chamber. Probably just makes me think in my own mind that I am on the cutting edge!

Last edited by TCracingCA; Jan 10, 2015 at 05:28 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA

Probably just makes me think in my own mind that I am on the cutting edge!
Yes, the mind is a terrible thing to lose. While yer tinkerin' around with that plug all day long, I'm out ridin'!

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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 08:16 PM
  #52  
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Default You are right!

Originally Posted by MikeM
Yes, the mind is a terrible thing to lose. While yer tinkerin' around with that plug all day long, I'm out ridin'!



That is why I bought the second one (C3), but that one isn't what I call fast, bought it because I am always doing something for or to my C2. then i am spoiled and when i need to get a fix, I can also take my Father's car out for exercise.

Hey everyone! Knowing I got one extra horsepower is very satisfying to know, even though it is currently parked as an ongoing project in the garage. But I am getting there """slowly"""!

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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
"Spark plug gaps were increased in the 1970's to better fire the leaner fuel mixtures. The wider gaps also meant higher powered spark and that's why you got HEI."

Both of these statements are true if "higher powered spark" means "hotter and larger" spark kernel. Not only will a hotter and larger spark ignite a harder to ignite lean mixture, but it will also ignite an exhaust gas diluted mixture, an overly rich mixture, and an oil contaminated mixture. More consistent firing (no "misfiring") not only makes the engine idle smoother, run smoother, get better fuel economy, and produce more power, but it also keeps the spark plugs cleaner.

"When the point gap closes, it give the coil more time to built a hotter spark so it seems one would/could cancel the other and you'l get no misfire."

This is partially true. A non HEI coil as used on Chevys from the 1960s is capable of producing about 18 kV, although only about 12 kV of that is needed to cause a spark to jump a .035" gap in an atmosphere which is not exceptionally dense...........the residual capability of the coil is used to overcome losses in the secondary wiring due to breaks/high resistance. If a cylinder is running a denser mixture, that plug is gapped wide due to wear and the wire feeding that plug has high resistance, then the coil will supply enough voltage over the nominal 12 kV to create a spark.............up to its design limit of about 18 kV. "Hotter" 40-50 kV coils will produce whatever voltage is necessary to cause a spark to jump a wider gap with residual voltage to overcome bad wires with breaks/high resistance wide gapped plugs as well as major variations in mixture density and leanness/richness..........................up to the design voltage of 40-50 kV.
Remember, that 40-50kV rating is just the coil's insulation/dielectric rating. It has nothing to do with what the actual voltage and energy levels are that come out of that coil.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 07:02 AM
  #54  
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Don't forget to make all your spark plug wires the same length.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Remember, that 40-50kV rating is just the coil's insulation/dielectric rating. It has nothing to do with what the actual voltage and energy levels are that come out of that coil.
Explain. Make it simple because I'm not an electronics genius. The way I heard it explained is that a coil with a higher rating is capable of stepping up the voltage to a higher level than a standard coil. I think that a standard coil such as used back in the days before HEI was capable of about 18 kV maximum.

As far as ACTUAL voltage produced, that is more or less adaptive, meaning that any coil will produce only as much voltage as needed to overcome the resistance in the secondary circuit plus whatever is needed for a spark to jump the gap, up to its rated maximum. Granted, a 45 or 50 kV coil rarely, if ever actually produces 50 kV. They do produce more than that produced by the standard coils of the fifties and sixties. If you gap your plugs at .045", the old coils wouldn't have enough voltage potential to enable a spark to jump such a wide gap. Wide gaps force the coil to produce more voltage, thus a hotter spark, larger spark kernel, which causes a more complete burn as well as cleaner plugs.

Back in the old days, guys used to "short gap" the plugs to compensate for misfiring due to a problem in the ignition system.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:32 PM
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Old guys always remember stuff differently it seems, even the same stuff.


We travelled across the US when i was a kid, towing a house trailer as well some times, through places like death valley. i don't recall ever being in a maintained car that overheated.
I bought a canvas route 66 spare water bag as a kid and never used it. hung on my garage wall for years.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon
Old guys always remember stuff differently it seems, even the same stuff.


We travelled across the US when i was a kid, towing a house trailer as well some times, through places like death valley. i don't recall ever being in a maintained car that overheated.
I bought a canvas route 66 spare water bag as a kid and never used it. hung on my garage wall for years.
Old cars used to overheat quite often back when there were no pressurized cooling systems and people poured oatmeal in the radiators to stops radiator leaks.

My parents went to Colorado (from Indiana) in 1938 in a year old '37 Ford that had the little 60 hp flathead in it. Somewhere here, I have a picture of it boiling over most of the way up Pike's Peak. No pressure cap and high altitude will do it.

Dad also had a fleet of Model A ford trucks he used to run his apple/peach orchards. Everyone of them would boil over from time/time because the radiators leaked and they needed another shot of oatmeal.

That is why I got my first chance to do a mechanical repair. On of them he converted to a tractor got hot and blew the head gasket. I changed it when I was ten years old.

Last edited by MikeM; Jan 11, 2015 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Who's the latest avatar babe? She looks familiar.

Doug
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
Explain. Make it simple because I'm not an electronics genius. The way I heard it explained is that a coil with a higher rating is capable of stepping up the voltage to a higher level than a standard coil. I think that a standard coil such as used back in the days before HEI was capable of about 18 kV maximum. Regarding these 40-50kV claims, picture an analogy: your shop air compressor. One manufacturer's ad says their model is a 250 psi unit, while another manufacturer says theirs is 500 psi. Which one is better? The 500 psi unit sure sounds better, until you find out that the big numbers only describe the tank pressure capability (burst resistance), not the pump capability, which might only be 125 psi tops. Also, those tank pressure capability numbers tell you nothing about the air CFM capability of the unit. To use air tools you need both line air pressure and air flow (CFM).
Impressive advertising numbers (250, 500) such as these examples don't give you any real world information to tell you if they will work better than (or even as well as) the humble dust and grease covered compressor hooked up in the corner of your shop. Ignition coils are kinda similar. It's what they put out time after time that counts, not what their blow up point is.

As far as ACTUAL voltage produced, that is more or less adaptive, meaning that any coil will produce only as much voltage as needed to overcome the resistance in the secondary circuit plus whatever is needed for a spark to jump the gap, Correct up to its rated maximum. Granted, a 45 or 50 kV coil rarely, if ever actually produces 50 kV. They do produce more than that produced by the standard coils of the fifties and sixties. Not necessarily. If you gap your plugs at .045", the old coils wouldn't have enough voltage potential to enable a spark to jump such a wide gap. You can't necessarily blame the coil. It can also be caused by the points/condenser. The potential voltage output of a coil is greatly affected by how fast you break the primary current, and mechanical points aren't terribly impressive in that function. Wide gaps force the coil to produce more voltage, thus a hotter spark, larger spark kernel, which causes a more complete burn as well as cleaner plugs.

Back in the old days, guys used to "short gap" the plugs to compensate for misfiring due to a problem in the ignition system.
There's an Ignition sticky in C3 Tech that goes into much more depth, but the main things needed to get a decent spark is the correct combination of coil primary inductance (not resistance!), sufficient dwell time for the coil primary current to rise to the desired level to put sufficient energy into the coil, and a darn fast shutoff of the primary current (for faster collapse of the magnetic field).
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Who's the latest avatar babe? She looks familiar.

Doug
Jungle Pam?
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