59BlueSilver

I've mostly been working on the interior since I got the car two years ago because that is what you see everytime you get in to drive, and I do love to drive it. Now, I think, I want to give attention to what you don't see, the frame.

Much discussion has taken place thru the years about inner frame treatment but no one has determined which is best from what I can tell. I suppose it's a matter of individual opinion.
There is encapsulated paint, acid treatment (muratic & phos), oil spray, etc. I'm leaning towards the oil spray myself. However, once used, you could never go back and use one of the other treatments effectively.

Any opinions?

Frankie the Fink

Eastwood Internal Chassis Treatment, encapsulates/converts/protects. Used it on my '63 frame. Going to do my '61 frame this winter. Here is their youtube pitch on it:

https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...&hsimp=yhs-001

6D2148

I agree with Frankie , that IS the stuff!!!

6D2148

Don't be shy I kept spraying til my floor was coated

59BlueSilver

Okay, looks good. It looks like the best to use is the 14oz. Spray cans using the spray tube. How many cans did you guys use for a typical car?

Frankie the Fink

I had some light surface rust on the '63 frame and I soaked it until the stuff ran out all the frame holes. Six cans in all - the '63 had all kinds of access and witness holes so I feel I got complete coverage; don't know on the '61 yet but I would sure soak those rear frame kick-ups and rear crossmember areas.

Two tips: wear gloves and put a Sharpee black mark about 3"-4" from the sprayer end of the hose attachment. This is a flag when pulling the hose out of the frame to get off the spray button on the can...so you don't spray yourself in the face. That treatment tastes like crap but it'll sure hold your hair in place.

SupremeDeluxe

I haven't used it on my 67 yet, but I used it on my daily driver to internally coat the rockers and cab corners, and I think it's a great product. I will use it on my 67 next year.

When my 67 was initially restored 20 years ago, it was done to more of a driver standard than show. The frame was sandblasted and subsequently painted as thoroughly as possible with DP90. The DP90 is indestructible. I was annoyed that there is still internal surface rust in the confined areas due to this process, and was planning to dip (Redi-Strip) the frame on the next restoration to entirely clean out the inside of the frame. After talking with a couple people who have done this, they advise against it, having had issues with trapped stripping agents between layered metal causing paint failures later on.

My take-away from all this is that it's probably best to coat and seal the inside as thoroughly as possible, rather than taking the leading strategy of removing all the minor surface rust first.

Frankie the Fink

The C1s had holes in the rear frame and, over decades, crud can get in there along with moisture and eventually get washed/blown, or migrate forward on downhill jaunts, and collect in the kick up area; then that oatmeal of goo gradually rusts out the kick-ups. Other gunk more forward in the frame rails just naturally migrates to the natural collection point at the kick-ups as the car is driven forward.

Very important to spray the kick up area liberally with the chassis treatment.

alexandervdr

What is the best method to get the dirt out?

6D2148

I think I may have used 6 cans also. To get all the gunk and mouse bedding out of the frame I adapted my blow nozzle down to a 2' or 3' length of brake line and stuck it in every hole over and over the did the same with a small shop vac, just kept repeating both until it was clean. Chip

59BlueSilver

You've convinced me, guys, good winter project and I'm anxious to get started. Make up some metal & vinyl wands for my compressor and try to get it as clean as possible.

BTW Frankie, I don't have any hair, so no worries about that! (that was funny).

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Bob K

I've got a new from on the way for my '65. I purchased the Eastwood rust spray with the hose. I'll do the inside of the frame when I get it.

Frankie,

Thank you for the tip on marking the hose! I don't need to sample the stuff.

Bob K.

Frankie the Fink

Seriously - there is like a 3 second delay once you get off the aerosol can push button before the treatment stops shooting out of the extended sprayer. Using that 'tell tale' mark to quit the finger pressure a few seconds before withdrawing the tube keeps you from spraying the stuff all over areas of the underbody that you'll have to clean up later. Important - because once this stuff dries it's the dickens to get off.

Bob K

I used the Eastwood chassis spray this afternoon on my new frame. It got up to about 50 degrees so I took the frame out of the garage and gave it a dose. We taped up the holes and gave the inside a liberal spraying.

Marking the hose worked great and I did not get a snoot full once. After a few hours we put it back into the heated garage to cure. I also gave the outside of the frame a double coat of Krylon 1613. It looks great.

I'll let it cure for a week, then it's full speed ahead with putting it back together. I can't wait.

Bob K.

59BlueSilver

Whew, glad this job is done. It was around 75 deg. Here for the last few days so spent three days cleaning dirt & mouse nests out of the frame. Put a two foot vinyl hose on my air blower and blew till clean, working in & out of every hole & then back again. Fourth day I painted. Didn't take long but it sure was messy! I didn't get paint in my hair but I got it everywhere else.

Frankie the Fink

Did the deed today on my '61. SOOooooo much easier on a lift...and the C1 frame is real straight forward. Used my shop vac to blow out the frame - especially at the rear where those open end pieces are. Lots of crud came out of there...

Took about 3-1/2 cans (my '63 took 6 cans). An easy hour and a half job.

You can see the mark I put on the spray nozzle as described above. I'm sure I got great coverage and the green stuff was oozing out of every seam...