WCFB 2X4 Carb Identification
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#3
Team Owner
The base plates have numbers too if you want to take out a few screws and check them. Proper 245hp/270hp dual quad plates should be 1-1387B. You are missing some choke/fast idle linkage and these carbs are hooked up "shotgun" instead of "progressive"...that's bad mojo...unless you're racing.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The base plates have numbers too if you want to take out a few screws and check them. Proper 245hp/270hp dual quad plates should be 1-1387B. You are missing some choke/fast idle linkage and these carbs are hooked up "shotgun" instead of "progressive"...that's bad mojo...unless you're racing.
Where do I find the base plate numbers and parts for these? Don't mind pulling few screws. These have the 45 degree discharge nozzles as well.
Last edited by jtranger; 01-11-2015 at 07:24 PM. Reason: add
#5
Team Owner
See attached for base plate numbers. They are hidden on an assembled carb but just inboard of the idle speed adjustment screw...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 01-11-2015 at 09:22 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#7
Pro
What is the diff between 245 hp 2X4s & 270 hp?
How does a person tell the diff between 245 hp 2X4s & 270 hp 2X4s? Thxs Pics if possible please.
Last edited by Solid Axle Guy; 11-17-2015 at 10:42 PM.
#8
Drifting
Frank the Fink answered that question with pics about a year ago. Look at the jets. The ends are cut differently, I believe that the higher HP carbs, the jets are at an angle and the lower hp jets are vertical ( I may have that backwards)
Last edited by Steve59; 11-18-2015 at 08:08 AM.
#9
Team Owner
Primary nozzles are cut at 45* on 'real deal' 270hp carbs and the counterweight arms/weights are different to compensate for the lower engine vacuum in Duntov-cammed, solid-lifter cars. Those are the chief, easily-identifiable characteristics. See the green circles in the first pic in the attached article.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-18-2015 at 08:18 AM.
#10
Pro
Frankie the Fink is da bomb
Primary nozzles are cut at 45* on 'real deal' 270hp carbs and the counterweight arms/weights are different to compensate for the lower engine vacuum in Duntov-cammed, solid-lifter cars. Those are the chief, easily-identifiable characteristics. See the green circles in the first pic in the attached article.
#11
Racer
Just checked the 4346 Fuel Pump pressure, 5-1/2 to 6 psi. No surprise that it's that high, actually I was expecting it higher, should be 4-1/2 - 5 psi.
I've now received the new needle valve seat assemblies so I'll install them and see how it goes, they say that they cope well with higher pressures, so we'll see.
I've now received the new needle valve seat assemblies so I'll install them and see how it goes, they say that they cope well with higher pressures, so we'll see.
#12
Team Owner
That is borderline high for these carbs but not "off the charts". Your flooding may be due to other issues (contamination, floats not centered in bowl, float height incorrect, leaky float, etc).
The needle valves are held shut by the buoyancy of the floats providing pressure on the valve against its seat - nothing else; so; I'm skeptical your new needle valves will help but worth a try I guess.
The needle valves are held shut by the buoyancy of the floats providing pressure on the valve against its seat - nothing else; so; I'm skeptical your new needle valves will help but worth a try I guess.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-20-2015 at 07:07 AM.
#13
Burning Brakes
I did a pressure check on my fuel pump for my 57 with dual wcfb's. It was between 6 and 6 1/2. I was also having ongoing flooding issues. Turned out to be problem with seating surface on air horn body for needle seat (rough surface). I was able to hone surface to get a nice seal. No more flooding issues, even with higher pressure pump. Good luck.
John
John
#14
Racer
I did a pressure check on my fuel pump for my 57 with dual wcfb's. It was between 6 and 6 1/2. I was also having ongoing flooding issues. Turned out to be problem with seating surface on air horn body for needle seat (rough surface). I was able to hone surface to get a nice seal. No more flooding issues, even with higher pressure pump. Good luck.
John
John
#15
Team Owner
I did a pressure check on my fuel pump for my 57 with dual wcfb's. It was between 6 and 6 1/2. I was also having ongoing flooding issues. Turned out to be problem with seating surface on air horn body for needle seat (rough surface). I was able to hone surface to get a nice seal. No more flooding issues, even with higher pressure pump. Good luck.
John
John
#16
Racer
I got around to removing the carburetor tops, I then fitted the new needle seat assemblies.
When I did the same to the rear carburetor, the secondary float was noticeably heavy on the LH side. Of course it sunk like a stone when I tested it, so that threw me for a loop. The RH side was fine, so I was puzzled how this thing ran at all!
I had a parts WCFB, so I took a secondary type float from that and tested it, it came out fine.
Today I completed the re-assembly and test ran it. What a difference, oddly enough the idles were spot on. No black smoke anymore or erratic idling. It makes me a bit mad though, that I did not find this out sooner.
Incidentally the new needles and seats that came from Chicago Corvettes seem to be controlling the high fuel pressure fine, I did set the floats about 3/32" lower to compensate.
We'll see how it goes after a few test runs.
When I did the same to the rear carburetor, the secondary float was noticeably heavy on the LH side. Of course it sunk like a stone when I tested it, so that threw me for a loop. The RH side was fine, so I was puzzled how this thing ran at all!
I had a parts WCFB, so I took a secondary type float from that and tested it, it came out fine.
Today I completed the re-assembly and test ran it. What a difference, oddly enough the idles were spot on. No black smoke anymore or erratic idling. It makes me a bit mad though, that I did not find this out sooner.
Incidentally the new needles and seats that came from Chicago Corvettes seem to be controlling the high fuel pressure fine, I did set the floats about 3/32" lower to compensate.
We'll see how it goes after a few test runs.
#17
Team Owner
Leaky float - as I suggested in post #12 above - they can be repaired BTW.
That was your problem....the Chicago Corvette "improved" needle valve and seat are the ones Daytona Parts has sold for several years - I run them and they work well. Its critical you use the correct number of gaskets under the seat; that's why they give you three.
If you now suffer fuel starvation on hard acceleration you'll want to set those floats back to spec - just keep an eye on it.
That was your problem....the Chicago Corvette "improved" needle valve and seat are the ones Daytona Parts has sold for several years - I run them and they work well. Its critical you use the correct number of gaskets under the seat; that's why they give you three.
If you now suffer fuel starvation on hard acceleration you'll want to set those floats back to spec - just keep an eye on it.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-25-2015 at 06:04 AM.
#19
Racer
Leaky float - as I suggested in post #12 above - they can be repaired BTW.
That was your problem....the Chicago Corvette "improved" needle valve and seat are the ones Daytona Parts has sold for several years - I run them and they work well. Its critical you use the correct number of gaskets under the seat; that's why they give you three.
If you now suffer fuel starvation on hard acceleration you'll want to set those floats back to spec - just keep an eye on it.
That was your problem....the Chicago Corvette "improved" needle valve and seat are the ones Daytona Parts has sold for several years - I run them and they work well. Its critical you use the correct number of gaskets under the seat; that's why they give you three.
If you now suffer fuel starvation on hard acceleration you'll want to set those floats back to spec - just keep an eye on it.
#20
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2015
Location: Fresno California
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I've always had excellent results with brass floats using a regular soldering iron. A heat gun is liable to melt all the solder in all the seams. Just sayin'.....