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Does anybody have any experience with the ACCEL 2010 Point Eliminator Kit for a C1 283 engine? I'm upgrading the electrical system and trying to decide which kit for points elimination is the best. Thanks in advance for any input or recommendations you can provide.
Last edited by MarvBest; Feb 7, 2015 at 12:25 PM.
Reason: formatting changes
Does anybody have any experience with the ACCEL 2010 Point Eliminator Kit for a C1 283 engine? I'm upgrading the electrical system and trying to decide which kit for points elimination is the best. Thanks in advance for any input or recommendations you can provide.
If you do a search of the archives there are threads galore on this subject...both pro and con, as well as manufacturer recommendations.
I take the ballast resistor off and remove the two electrical terminal mount screws and place a jumper wire across them on the BACK of the resistor and reinstall the screws and remount the ballast. 12V full time and undetectable.....no other wiring change required...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 8, 2015 at 08:02 AM.
The Accel 2010 module looks a lot like a knockoff of a Mallory Unilite. I have a still running 21 year old Unilite in mine. Has worked flawlessly all that time. I bought my first one in 1977 after they first came out, and when the $110 they cost was a lot of money. Blew two of them up using solid core wires. If you avoid that, whatever in-distributor module you choose should be good just about forever. I guess that assumes the Iranians don't get The Bomb and set one off in the upper atmosphere to fry all our sensitive electronics. Maybe all that distributor shielding will keep mine safe.
That is what I understood. I'm not into judging my car so I just moved wires to one side of resistor, hense suppling 12v all the time. I am considering putting in a relay with a dedicaded 12v wire from battery (with a fuse in it). I would trigger the relay from switch wire. This assures 12v steady.
Frankie the Fink
Last edited by Bobonthis; Feb 12, 2015 at 03:56 PM.
Up to you - I've never found a relay necessary with an electronic conversion - those are best used to take heavy amp loads off factory wiring; not needed in this case; its already a low current setup.
That's why ballast resistor and ignition coil wires are such small gauge...
More points of failure in the ignition circuit can cause the need for some serious troubleshooting if problems arise...
I am considering putting in a relay with a dedacaded 12v wire from battery (with a fuse in it). I would trigger the relay from switch wire. This assures 12v steady.
A relay in the ignition circuit (in this application) assures nothing more than a weak link. If you are going to breakerless ignition requiring the ballast resistor out of the primary circuit, take Frank's advice.
Among purposes of a relay is to switch larger currents with smaller ones, so they come in handy when re-wiring headlamp circuits to take the full load off the headlamp switch & wiring. But the ignition switch can handle the ignition primary load just fine. A relay here is unnecessary complication, no advantage, and introduces a point of failure in that if the relay fails (unlike Frank's simple strap across the resistor-an elegant solution) your car stops, where ever you happen to be.
Good electrical engineering is getting it done with a minimum of components and places things can go wrong.
By the way, I typed the above not having seen Frank's post, no need to beat a dead horse.
But, Rolls Royce was famous for adding relays to every blessed part of their cars, most were unnecessary, and today owners of these cars (70's & 80's) have fits trying to straighten out their wiring.
I ran a petronix for about 40,000 miles, starting in 2000, and then an HEI for another 50,000 after my stock dash tach died. No problems with either. I also just hooked both wires to one side of the resistor and left it in place, for both setups, since they both require a full 12v. Currently use an MSD E-curve distributor, where all the timing curves are adjustable inside the distributor - mechanical, vacuum, etc, as well as rev limit.... great for when you need a custom setup like is needed for a tunnel ram.
I take the ballast resistor off and remove the two electrical terminal mount screws and place a jumper wire across them on the BACK of the resistor and reinstall the screws and remount the ballast. 12V full time and undetectable.....no other wiring change required...
what does the ballast resistor look like? do you have a pic?
what does the ballast resistor look like? do you have a pic?
63-67.
I put a Pertronix set up on my 1954 6 volt and it runs great. 6 volts with points is brutal due to amp load. Fits under the distributor cap. I used a NAPA 6 volt coil and put the original in a box on the shelf. Never looked back.
Does anybody have any experience with the ACCEL 2010 Point Eliminator Kit for a C1 283 engine? I'm upgrading the electrical system and trying to decide which kit for points elimination is the best. Thanks in advance for any input or recommendations you can provide.
Pertronix in both of my cars. Runs great and no problems
Distributor Conversion to Pointless
