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All out of ideas on this one. After a rebuild to near stock 327/300 the car started and ran 3-4 times, broke in the cam over this time. Then something happened and will NOT start again. Have removed the Petronix package and gone back to points, new battery, added ground strap at engine mount bolt to frame, new plugs and on and on. Have checked timing and know its not 180 degrees out and have checked fuel. rechecking for spark with timing light at distrib. I know I have fire at all except number 4 and I used some starting fluid (don't like to) but still not even a hint of even a pop. Ideas please and why would I have one bad cylinder at no. 4?? thanks for your input
If you have Spark at seven Plugs and not one I'd check wire for continuity or just switch the Faulty Wire out. Engines need Compression, Fuel and Spark to run. Eliminate Fuel first. Do not use Starting Fluid again or you risk your new engine becoming old real quick. A little raw gas is fine. Visual inspection of Plugs is a good idea. New engines are rough on Plugs but I doubt that is your problem. You don't list any Back Firing either threw Carb. or exhaust so I'm betting so I'm thinking Ignition will be the source of your cure. Focus on the basics and avoid paralysis by analysis. Good Luck, Al W.
Checked that over several weeks and they are not wet at this time. in fact I am wondering if there is enough gas or if the bowl had dried up. But in case of this, i sprayed a liberal amount of starting fluid. Still not even a pop...
I'd pull a plug and ground the threads and check for spark there first.
Have done that with number one and even number 8 recently. Had spark both times, still weird that number 4 is just DEAD despite changing that wire, checking the terminals on the distr. cap and changing out the plug to a known good plug. Still 7 out of 8??? It should at least gasp and pop! Also moved the distrib. slowly as I cranked in case I was missing it by a bit.
If you have Spark at seven Plugs and not one I'd check wire for continuity or just switch the Faulty Wire out. Engines need Compression, Fuel and Spark to run. Eliminate Fuel first. Do not use Starting Fluid again or you risk your new engine becoming old real quick. A little raw gas is fine. Visual inspection of Plugs is a good idea. New engines are rough on Plugs but I doubt that is your problem. You don't list any Back Firing either threw Carb. or exhaust so I'm betting so I'm thinking Ignition will be the source of your cure. Focus on the basics and avoid paralysis by analysis. Good Luck, Al W.
I'm with you on the ignition as the fault. Changed out wire on no. 4 to an older wire but with better resistance# and even switched temporarily with a new wire & new plug but still does not fire on number 4. I thought bad cap... but terminal 4 on both the new and the old caps I've used checks out with the meter. i will try a squirt of real fuel instead of the starter fluid. Anything in the dash wiring that could cause this?
Have you checked the ballast resistor? You mention changing from electronic to points. Never done the change over but I believe something is done with the resistor when changing from one to the other.
Last edited by Gary's '66; Feb 11, 2015 at 09:55 PM.
...I thought bad cap... but terminal 4 on both the new and the old caps I've used checks out with the meter....
When you say you checked terminal 4 with a meter, what were you checking? Try an ohm meter and see if there is a path between the center terminal and any of the plug terminals. They should appear totally open unless the rotor is lined up with one of them. Even a high resistance path is a sign of a problem.
I'd examine the cap very carefully for cracks or perhaps a line of carbon inside the cap. Try wiping the interior and exterior of the cap with a rag. The thought here is that you may be seeing spark at 7 cylinders, but it may not be a correctly timed spark.
Take the Number 4 wire from the Cap and put it directly into the . Ground the Plug to the Exhaust Manifold and have someone crank the engine. You should see very rapid Sparking. If you do, change out the Cap And Rotor. Let us know. Al W.
Take the Number 4 wire from the Cap and put it directly into the . Ground the Plug to the Exhaust Manifold and have someone crank the engine. You should see very rapid Sparking. If you do, change out the Cap And Rotor. Let us know. Al W.
Why not just another plug spot, if the others are working. Move it to another and see if you get a spark. I think there's more wrong here than a single cylinder not getting spark.
Why not just another plug spot, if the others are working. Move it to another and see if you get a spark. I think there's more wrong here than a single cylinder not getting spark.
I don't know why not just another plug spot. I just tried to be helpful and answer your question.
I personally think you're right about something else being the problem.
See my post above about the relevance of that one cylinder not firing.
Is the wire from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid (the outboard one) connected to the coil (+) terminal? That's the only current source for the ignition when the starter is cranking. I'd give you the wire color, but you didn't say what year car you have.