Help with U joints
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 298
Likes: 16
Help with U joints
As I work on my original never touched 67, i am now trying to remove the u joints from the half shafts. i have done this before on other cars. With a big hammer and old sockets, usually it is not too much trouble to push out the old u joints
i am having trouble on this car. the halfshafts are out of the car. I soaked the ends in CRC spray, heated them, and tried to press out the end caps with my home press (12 ton). the first end popped free with a lot of effort. the opposite end will not budge. I have not tried the end that attaches to the spindle, because I am really afraid that end will break with all the pressure.
any suggestions to get the u joint end caps to loosen up in the halfshafts? i have only one out, and a lot more to go. I did not expect this to be difficult (which is funny, because I thought the sombrero rear diff bushings would be horrible but they were easy)
for the ends that attach to the spindle, I plan to bolt them to the spindle hub thing before trying to press to give them more strength, but still cant get the others to budge
i am having trouble on this car. the halfshafts are out of the car. I soaked the ends in CRC spray, heated them, and tried to press out the end caps with my home press (12 ton). the first end popped free with a lot of effort. the opposite end will not budge. I have not tried the end that attaches to the spindle, because I am really afraid that end will break with all the pressure.
any suggestions to get the u joint end caps to loosen up in the halfshafts? i have only one out, and a lot more to go. I did not expect this to be difficult (which is funny, because I thought the sombrero rear diff bushings would be horrible but they were easy)
for the ends that attach to the spindle, I plan to bolt them to the spindle hub thing before trying to press to give them more strength, but still cant get the others to budge
Last edited by jkg2101; Feb 20, 2015 at 08:36 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
As I work on my original never touched 67, i am now trying to remove the u joints from the half shafts. i have done this before on other cars. With a big hammer and old sockets, usually it is not too much trouble to push out the old u joints
i am having trouble on this car. the halfshafts are out of the car. I soaked the ends in CRC spray, heated them, and tried to press out the end caps with my home press (12 ton). the first end popped free with a lot of effort. the opposite end will not budge. I have not tried the end that attaches to the spindle, because I am really afraid that end will break with all the pressure.
any suggestions to get the u joint end caps to loosen up in the halfshafts? i have only one out, and a lot more to go. I did not expect this to be difficult (which is funny, because I thought the sombrero rear diff bushings would be horrible but they were easy)
for the ends that attach to the spindle, I plan to bolt them to the spindle hub thing before trying to press to give them more strength, but still cant get the others to budge
i am having trouble on this car. the halfshafts are out of the car. I soaked the ends in CRC spray, heated them, and tried to press out the end caps with my home press (12 ton). the first end popped free with a lot of effort. the opposite end will not budge. I have not tried the end that attaches to the spindle, because I am really afraid that end will break with all the pressure.
any suggestions to get the u joint end caps to loosen up in the halfshafts? i have only one out, and a lot more to go. I did not expect this to be difficult (which is funny, because I thought the sombrero rear diff bushings would be horrible but they were easy)
for the ends that attach to the spindle, I plan to bolt them to the spindle hub thing before trying to press to give them more strength, but still cant get the others to budge
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
The outboard U-joint flanges (that bolt to the drive spindles) are forgings, but they can very easily bend (and then be permanently categorized as junk), with replacements about $50 per side. In order to avoid that, either use a spare flange, bolted back-to-back to the flange you're working on as a reinforcement, or use a special tool designed to do the same thing, shown below.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 2,178
From: Chicopee MA.
Next time just bring the clean shafts to them and have them install their parts on them.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,354
Likes: 2,726
From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Do you have lite to medium truck driveline service near you? They know what they are doing, and in my case knew the fragle nature of the outboard flange. Charged me $6.00 labor for each side plus $26 for each joint. 
Dennis
Dennis
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,277
Likes: 2,139
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
A lot of good advice above.
I recently did my 1967 car. Original U-joints in the driveshaft and half shafts. I used the reinforcing plate that JohnZ showed. There are two versions, I bought and used the HD one. Soaked the joints for 1 week in Kroil. Still my 20 ton shop press was groaning at the task. Everytime the u-joint would move a 1/16 of an inch or so, it sounded like someone shot off a 38 cal handgun in the garage. However, in the end I was successful and got the work done without breaking or bending anything.
In your case, I would first try and find a truck/auto driveline shop in your area, and go there as Bluestripe said. If you cannot locate one, find a welding shop and do what Wombvette suggested………then press out the ends.
Even if your press is up to the task and you purchase the "strong back" that JohnZ showed, there will still be a problem with getting the end caps and cross-shaft out of the joint without a special puller. I did the job myself, but the support tools were more than if I farmed out the work. Depends on whether you like a challenge.
Larry
I recently did my 1967 car. Original U-joints in the driveshaft and half shafts. I used the reinforcing plate that JohnZ showed. There are two versions, I bought and used the HD one. Soaked the joints for 1 week in Kroil. Still my 20 ton shop press was groaning at the task. Everytime the u-joint would move a 1/16 of an inch or so, it sounded like someone shot off a 38 cal handgun in the garage. However, in the end I was successful and got the work done without breaking or bending anything.
In your case, I would first try and find a truck/auto driveline shop in your area, and go there as Bluestripe said. If you cannot locate one, find a welding shop and do what Wombvette suggested………then press out the ends.
Even if your press is up to the task and you purchase the "strong back" that JohnZ showed, there will still be a problem with getting the end caps and cross-shaft out of the joint without a special puller. I did the job myself, but the support tools were more than if I farmed out the work. Depends on whether you like a challenge.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; Feb 21, 2015 at 11:54 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
U joints
I agree with the above. I used to fight with the U joints all the time. I went to Fleet Pride here in Tampa and they replaced 6 joints with Spicers and even balanced my driveshaft for less than $150. They replaced the U joints on my Chevelle while I waited. Sometimes it's easier and faster to let the pros do it. Jerry
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 2,178
From: Chicopee MA.
If all else fails, you can always use a cutting torch and "wash" out the cup with out over heating the part.
I have cut out bearing races like that all the time.
\ You could also cut a 1/2" hole in the cap and insert a 1/2" bolt and place a socket on the outside and tighten away with your impact wrench.
I have cut out bearing races like that all the time.
\ You could also cut a 1/2" hole in the cap and insert a 1/2" bolt and place a socket on the outside and tighten away with your impact wrench.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,772
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
The outboard U-joint flanges (that bolt to the drive spindles) are forgings, but they can very easily bend (and then be permanently categorized as junk), with replacements about $50 per side. In order to avoid that, either use a spare flange, bolted back-to-back to the flange you're working on as a reinforcement, or use a special tool designed to do the same thing, shown below.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...port-tool.html
Tom
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 3
From: Mosquito Land, Manitoba, Canada
The outboard U-joint flanges (that bolt to the drive spindles) are forgings, but they can very easily bend (and then be permanently categorized as junk), with replacements about $50 per side. In order to avoid that, either use a spare flange, bolted back-to-back to the flange you're working on as a reinforcement, or use a special tool designed to do the same thing, shown below.
Great tool. Avoid using a hammer to remove the u-joint bearings, you can cause a lot of damage to the part by banging on it. I use a large vise, sockets and a heavy steel pipe for leverage to press out the bearings. Never had a problem pressing out stubborn u-joint bearings. Or just take your parts to a garage that does this all the time.
Last edited by wonderful; Feb 21, 2015 at 08:34 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,277
Likes: 2,139
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
I've never seen that type of tool before. Nice. A quick search and I found this.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...port-tool.html
Tom
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...port-tool.html
Tom
Larry
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,277
Likes: 2,139
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky