Complete electrical loss after engine crank
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Navigator
Joined: Mar 2015
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Complete electrical loss after engine crank
My '67 didn't want to start and after multiple cranks (apparently one too many), I lost all electrical... Is there a fusible link that I fried or some sort of thermal cutoff? Felt the starter and she didn't seem to be hot, but...
Any thoughts?
She's a 327/300...
Any thoughts?
She's a 327/300...
Last edited by Dubyajay; Mar 1, 2015 at 09:29 PM. Reason: More info
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
Particularly the large red wire in the firewall connector plug below the master cylinder. That feeds all electrical to the inside of the car, (dash, ignition, etc). First, measure the battery voltage and check the connections on it.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Oakland, Maine
Thread Starter
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Sorry, Guys...
Thought I had posted what Fixed it, but apparently not...
Checked the firewall connector, the ground and the positive post. All looked good. Checked the voltage at the battery and it was less than 6 volts. Battery was less than 6 months old, so bad cell? No, when I started removing the connections to pull the battery when the battery quick disconnect broke apart in my hand. Closer inspection showed corrosion not visible from the outside. Checked the voltage directly from the post and she was better than 12. Put it back together without the quick disconnect and she jumped to life. Strange, because she cranked strong for 4 or 5 tries, than nothing - not even a click. Sure seemed like a fuse or thermal shutdown from a overheated starter.
Thought I had posted what Fixed it, but apparently not...
Checked the firewall connector, the ground and the positive post. All looked good. Checked the voltage at the battery and it was less than 6 volts. Battery was less than 6 months old, so bad cell? No, when I started removing the connections to pull the battery when the battery quick disconnect broke apart in my hand. Closer inspection showed corrosion not visible from the outside. Checked the voltage directly from the post and she was better than 12. Put it back together without the quick disconnect and she jumped to life. Strange, because she cranked strong for 4 or 5 tries, than nothing - not even a click. Sure seemed like a fuse or thermal shutdown from a overheated starter.
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Army
I figured - some here will suggest that never happens with those connectors, or, that you are using a cheap, Chinesium version.
I've had two of those green **** do-hickeys fail (NOT cheap ones) due to corrosion and moved to the knife edge style - never a problem.
Glad you got going again...
I've had two of those green **** do-hickeys fail (NOT cheap ones) due to corrosion and moved to the knife edge style - never a problem.
Glad you got going again...
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Mar 2015
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I figured - some here will suggest that never happens with those connectors, or, that you are using a cheap, Chinesium version.
I've had two of those green **** do-hickeys fail (NOT cheap ones) due to corrosion and moved to the knife edge style - never a problem.
Glad you got going again...
I've had two of those green **** do-hickeys fail (NOT cheap ones) due to corrosion and moved to the knife edge style - never a problem.
Glad you got going again...
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,253
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From: Delray Beach Florida
not a fan of the green **** --- blade is the way to go for me --- just my opinion ... I also have had issues with the **** style disconnect unless i took the **** completely off - i was never sure it was working (opening my door to make sure the dome light was off, at times was not till i continued to loosen the **** some more)--- with the blade I am
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Hightstown NJ
I always just leave the negative terminal loose enough that I can twist it off and lay it aside. When I put it back on I press down and twist it like a jar lid and it gets tight. No problems and everything looks as it should.
Verne
Verne
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