C2 Alternator Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Stafford VA
C2 Alternator Question
Howdy all, a quick (and hopefully simple) question....
I am looking to increase the output capability of my alternator in order to support a modern stereo, amplifier, multi-speaker combo. So I took my alternator to the starter/alternator shop in town to have it rebuilt. When there I was told it's better to just buy a new modern one instead. The gentleman running the shop tried to convince me that I can just use one with a single line out (+) and to feed that directly back to the battery. If this is correct that would be preferable as I could use a larger gauge wire, and I understand that would work for a modern car, but I question if will it work for a C2? Does it cause issues to not connect the other 3 wires currently in the alternator (black ground and two wires that plug into the top center)?
Any insight/thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance and Happy Easter!
Cheers,
Jason
I am looking to increase the output capability of my alternator in order to support a modern stereo, amplifier, multi-speaker combo. So I took my alternator to the starter/alternator shop in town to have it rebuilt. When there I was told it's better to just buy a new modern one instead. The gentleman running the shop tried to convince me that I can just use one with a single line out (+) and to feed that directly back to the battery. If this is correct that would be preferable as I could use a larger gauge wire, and I understand that would work for a modern car, but I question if will it work for a C2? Does it cause issues to not connect the other 3 wires currently in the alternator (black ground and two wires that plug into the top center)?
Any insight/thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance and Happy Easter!
Cheers,
Jason
Racer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 337
Likes: 27
From: Fremont CA
Howdy all, a quick (and hopefully simple) question....
I am looking to increase the output capability of my alternator in order to support a modern stereo, amplifier, multi-speaker combo. So I took my alternator to the starter/alternator shop in town to have it rebuilt. When there I was told it's better to just buy a new modern one instead. The gentleman running the shop tried to convince me that I can just use one with a single line out (+) and to feed that directly back to the battery. If this is correct that would be preferable as I could use a larger gauge wire, and I understand that would work for a modern car, but I question if will it work for a C2? Does it cause issues to not connect the other 3 wires currently in the alternator (black ground and two wires that plug into the top center)?
Any insight/thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance and Happy Easter!
Cheers,
Jason
I am looking to increase the output capability of my alternator in order to support a modern stereo, amplifier, multi-speaker combo. So I took my alternator to the starter/alternator shop in town to have it rebuilt. When there I was told it's better to just buy a new modern one instead. The gentleman running the shop tried to convince me that I can just use one with a single line out (+) and to feed that directly back to the battery. If this is correct that would be preferable as I could use a larger gauge wire, and I understand that would work for a modern car, but I question if will it work for a C2? Does it cause issues to not connect the other 3 wires currently in the alternator (black ground and two wires that plug into the top center)?
Any insight/thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance and Happy Easter!
Cheers,
Jason
www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html
http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html
These links have information regarding the direct wire and gauge/length.
I'm a little lost because my regulator is still plugged in and if disconnected the volts are too high and there is too much black tape for me trace if the red wire is going to the battery and the white and blue wires are not connected. (One wire).
Irwin
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
Nonsense. My shop in Orlando 'upped' my stock '63 alternator output to 70 amps full out after I added A/C....and proved it to me on his load test machine.
I wouldn't buy a new one. If you're really hell bent to put in another, modern alternator then go to Mad Electric's web site and get edumicated:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
before you get railroaded into a bad decision.
Having said that -- you very possibly don't need to do a thing. I run a 600W Kenwood amp, passive Bazooka and a 140W front speaker off my stock C1 35 amp GENERATOR (and have for 6 years) ! (Power windows but no A/C)
I wouldn't buy a new one. If you're really hell bent to put in another, modern alternator then go to Mad Electric's web site and get edumicated:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
before you get railroaded into a bad decision.
Having said that -- you very possibly don't need to do a thing. I run a 600W Kenwood amp, passive Bazooka and a 140W front speaker off my stock C1 35 amp GENERATOR (and have for 6 years) ! (Power windows but no A/C)
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Apr 6, 2015 at 08:22 AM.
Moderator
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 7,117
Likes: 51
From: Dove Mountain Arizona
I run a 300W amp, a 6 disc CD changer, two Sony 6X9 triaxial speakers, subwoofer and two front speakers with the stock 35 amp alternator and have for 10 years with no issues at all. No A/C however. 
Racer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 337
Likes: 27
From: Fremont CA
I have a Powermaster 17294 installed on my car when I got it. Below link support and wire gauge information.
www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html
http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html
These links have information regarding the direct wire and gauge/length.
I'm a little lost because my regulator is still plugged in and if disconnected the volts are too high and there is too much black tape for me trace if the red wire is going to the battery and the white and blue wires are not connected. (One wire).
Irwin
www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html
http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html
These links have information regarding the direct wire and gauge/length.
I'm a little lost because my regulator is still plugged in and if disconnected the volts are too high and there is too much black tape for me trace if the red wire is going to the battery and the white and blue wires are not connected. (One wire).
Irwin
But, if you do decide to install a one wire version, make be sure to install a new ground cable also. The reason why my voltage goes up when the regulator is unplugged is due to the ground is being connected by being plugged into the external regulator. Apparently the ground from being installed to the block isn't good enough or keeping the external regulator look on the car was something the previous owner wanted.
Irwin
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,357
From: Santa Ana CA
You can get the 1-wire alternator, but don't run it to the battery. Instead, run it to the accessory junction at the horn relay so that you don't loose the function of your amps gauge.
For that matter, you can use the existing red wire on the batt terminal and put the black wire to the case with a bolt. While the alt grounds the case through the mounting bolts, the black wire gets the ground over to the core support, uninterrupted, where the headlights need the current for their ground. The other two wires are no longer used.
This works and I have a 100 amp alternator on my '64 wired this way. When you start the car, the alternator won't start to charge until you rev the engine past about 1,500 RPM ONCE until you turn off the ignition.
BTW, this is an excellent time to add the headlight relays, and I mounded mine inside the voltage regulator that I gutted because it is no longer used with the 1-wire alt. You should be able to search this forum and find those pictures. Search under headlight relays.
For that matter, you can use the existing red wire on the batt terminal and put the black wire to the case with a bolt. While the alt grounds the case through the mounting bolts, the black wire gets the ground over to the core support, uninterrupted, where the headlights need the current for their ground. The other two wires are no longer used.
This works and I have a 100 amp alternator on my '64 wired this way. When you start the car, the alternator won't start to charge until you rev the engine past about 1,500 RPM ONCE until you turn off the ignition.
BTW, this is an excellent time to add the headlight relays, and I mounded mine inside the voltage regulator that I gutted because it is no longer used with the 1-wire alt. You should be able to search this forum and find those pictures. Search under headlight relays.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Stafford VA
C2 Alternator Question
All, greatly appreciate all of the responses. I will pick through them this evening, as I am currently driving from DC to Chicago for my upcoming Marine Corps move.
The only additional thing I should have noted in my original message, is that I plan to run 2 one thousand watt amps with multiple speakers to include a pair of 12" subs. Not sure if that changes anyone's thoughts or not.
Again thank you all for your responses and I will look closely at them this evening after I am settled.
Cheers, Jason
The only additional thing I should have noted in my original message, is that I plan to run 2 one thousand watt amps with multiple speakers to include a pair of 12" subs. Not sure if that changes anyone's thoughts or not.
Again thank you all for your responses and I will look closely at them this evening after I am settled.
Cheers, Jason
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 196
From: Wilton Ca.
All, greatly appreciate all of the responses. I will pick through them this evening, as I am currently driving from DC to Chicago for my upcoming Marine Corps move.
The only additional thing I should have noted in my original message, is that I plan to run 2 one thousand watt amps with multiple speakers to include a pair of 12" subs. Not sure if that changes anyone's thoughts or not.
Again thank you all for your responses and I will look closely at them this evening after I am settled.
Cheers, Jason
The only additional thing I should have noted in my original message, is that I plan to run 2 one thousand watt amps with multiple speakers to include a pair of 12" subs. Not sure if that changes anyone's thoughts or not.
Again thank you all for your responses and I will look closely at them this evening after I am settled.
Cheers, Jason
Gary
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