I believe I have a 1961 with the original engine and transmission (230HP, Powerglide) in it. Here are some numbers:

VIN: 10867S105175
Engine Stamping: 105175 F0116DG
Engine Casting #: Unknown (under PG kickdown linkage)
Engine Casting Date: L130 (?) hard to read in a mirror
Transmission: 3746829; GM 15; A31
Intake: 3746829; A41
Water Pump: 3782808
Thermostat Housing: 3711268

Here is a pic of the engine stamping:



The only thing that gives me pause about this is that I understand that, starting sometime in 1961 a character indicating the year was inserted in front of the production sequence number on the stamping. That does not seem to be there on my block but it does not look like a re-stamp to me.

I do not believe the engine has ever been out of this car. My Dad had it between 1976 and December 2014. Before that (1965-1976) it sat in a garage and only some body / paint work had been done. Before that, it was on the road (ending with a minor front end ouchy). It only has 31K miles on the odometer and the last service sticker, showing 31K miles is still on the door. I have a copy of the original registration and it was not registered between 1965 and 2014. When my Dad got it, the trim was all off and the car had been painted by not rubbed-out. Virtually everything else on the car is original. I have since had the paint rubbed out and I am restoring the interior.

My Dad cleaned and painted the "bolt-on" pieces under the hood but the bell housing and transmission appear to have 50+ years of gunk on them.

I am not doing an NCRS quality restoration but I would like to know whether I have the original engine in the car.

Thanks in advance!

 

the "1" in the Vin derivitive 105175 represents 1961 (the model year of the car). I'm no expert, but I'd be proud of that pad as it looks pretty legit to me.

tc

 

Thanks! I hope the experts confirm your opinion I see what you mean about the "1". I mis-read the web page that explained decoding engine stamping and I guess I can't count digits either...DOH!

 

The only issue I see, is the manor in which you removed the paint from the pad.

It appears you used a screwdriver, or something similar, to scrap the paint off. It's far better to use thinner to remove paint from a pad, because you're less likely to damage the surface of the pad. Scrapping the paint off, can effect the pad's broach marks, which are found on the surface of original, untouched pads.

 

Thanks. I did start with a thinner-dipped rag on the end of a screwdriver but it did poke through on me a bit. I will look at removing some of the interfering items so that I can clean it properly and then perhaps brush some clear lacquer on it.

 

Once the pad is clear a simple smear of oil will do fine. This is part of my Spring prep as I put oil on my finger and rub it across the pad.

 

Engine looks fine. Water pump has been changed out.

 

Hmmm. I read that number in a mirror too. I will re-check. Would a 3782608 be correct?

Thanks

 

Yes.

 

I don't think anybody restamped stuff before about 1980, so that is good to go.

And I don't think anybody restamped base engine cars at all, until probably 20 or 25 years ago. And even then it was not typical, as there was no money in it. Why restamp a 230 HP motor when you can just as easily make it some higher HP dual carb, or FI motor?

So, If you know where the car has been since the mid '70s, your block is original.

Doug

 

Okay, I'm confused, so please educate me.

I don't believe that the leading "1" in the vin derivitive on the block indicates the model year. The reason I say this is because I have a 1960, S/N 00867S100056. Remember, I am talking actual S/N. Since mine was number 56 off the assembly line the original engine (which was long gone by 1967) would not have had a vin derivitive. However, vin derivitives did appear later in the '60 model year, as I am sure you know. If the last six digits of the vin constituted the ID on the block it would have also had a "1" as the leading character. I believe the leading "1" in leaston78's S/N, not the derivitive, indicates the model year, as the leading character in my S/N is a "0" indicating a 1960. Is that correct? The casting date on the block would determine the year of the engine. Please straighten me out if I am wrong. Thanks.
160

 

I'm sorry, I still don't get what the aversion to a NOM engine is. It's a 54 year old car. Especially with the above quote stated, who cares. Drive it and enjoy it(IMO).

 

Thanks John.

 

Thanks Doug. I think your logic is sound. I wanted to check to confirm what seemed to make sense for all of the reasons you noted.

Larry

 

I do plan to drive & enjoy it. For me, knowing the history is part of the "enjoying" aspect (JMO). I really like your avatar, BTW.

 

OK by way of explanation, I was trained as an engineer (which my sister correctly points out is a personality disorder, not a profession) so I ordered the 1961-1962 NCRS TIM. Even though I am not doing a nut and bolt resto, when I fix something I would like to keep it close to correct. The TIM arrived today and it confirms that in 1961 and 1962, the first digit in the VIN derivative represents the model year. HOWEVER, it also states that the latest documented 6-digit VIN derivative in 1961 was 100740.....so now I am confused. According to the TIM, I would expect my VIN derivative to be 7 digits i.e. 1105175

Now that is weird because it seems like one of the first 2 digits is redundant as far as information content is concerned.

So what do the experts say?

 

No problem, I understand fully. I am afflicted with the same disorder.
160

 

I did proper cleaning (thinner only!) and the missing 1 magically appeared. I apologize if I exercised anyone on the 7 vs 6 digit question.

I also believe, upon further reading, that 1COOL60 is correct. I looked at several references for 1960-1962 and the leading character in the VIN (or SN) is the last digit of the model year. All production sequence numbers for those years begin with a 1. At some point in 1961, a 7th, leading digit was added to the VIN derivative apparently to add model year info to that number. So my stamping decodes to: 1 for 1961; production sequence #105175 for car 5175 off the line followed by the assembly location / date / application code in the second group.

I can also now see how delicate the broaching marks are and I appreciate the tip on not using tools to remove paint.




Thanks everyone for your comments, information and advice. There is no place better than this forum for finding information and expert help.

 

You might want to check the number on that water pump one more time. On all '61 Corvettes, AFTER VIN 1700, the 609 (3782609) was used. That nine at the end sometimes looks like an 8 and since there was a 608 (3782608)pump, it's worth a second look to be sure. Just FYI

 

Thanks, I will!