Thinking of installing a Pertronix I unit this weekend. What are the pros and cons with these units. The idea sounds great. Any advise? :crazy:

 

All pros... no cons that I can think of.... faster starting.... longer lasting plugs.... what's not to like.... and the price is right.... :smash: :cheers:

 

I see Crane also sells a similar product. It is listed in 2001 issue of JC Whitney catalog.

How do Crane or Petronix compare with what MSD have to offer ? I also believe you can run the Petronix or Crane with the MSD ? Am I correct ?

 

I put one in last week and pulled it back out Sunday. It ran great once I got it started but for some reason it took a lot of cranking to get it to start. I checked my dwell after install and it was at 24*. With points it's suppose to be 28-32*.I think the unit was bad so I'm going to call Summit about getting another one. It only took 20 min. to install. I was really surprised at the difference in the way it ran.

 

Have had one in the "PinkLinc" for 2 years; fires up faster than when using points, even when it was burning oil ;) :yesnod: :cheers:
Cruz

 

I have had one in my 65 for 2 years this October. When I got the car it had the stock dist. and points. It would float and sputter around 6000 RPM. I by chance saw the pertronics unit and decided to give it a try. I am very very glad I did. The car noticibly starts easier, and zings all the way to 7000 RPM and does not miss a beat. The other good deal is that you can remove or by-pass the ballast resistor. This will allow you to run field voltage (around 13.5) to the coil. This almost doubles the voltage from the stock configuration. You will have to pair it with a coil that has at least 1.5 ohms of resitance. Pertornics makes a "Flame Thrower" coil that will work, the accell super coil (stock size) will work as well. The flame thrower is black and the funky sticker can be pealed off for a complete stock apearance.

I just installed one in my friends 58 along with some plugs and wires, WOW what a differance it made in his car. He has a NOM so numbers are not a big deal, but the stock apearance appeals to him. His old dist. was shot so we bought a new one for 39.00, I thought that was very cheap.
and the pertornics for 79.00. So for around 120.00 he has a stock type distributor with the benifits of electornic ignition.

I called there teck line and they sugested enlarging the gap on the spark plugs to .045" -.055" depending on application. I run mine at .050" Remember you are getting more juice to the plugs.

You will have to remove the distributor to do a proper install. There is an air gap in the ring and sensor that may require a shim (included in kit) depending on your distributor. If this is necessary then you will have to remove the helix gear at the bottom and shim there or on the ring itself.
From start to finish took me about an hour.

Mark

 

I have installed MANY in the past 10yrs without any complaints. BUUUUUUUUUT, the number ONE, primary reason that I started installing the PerTronix conversion was that in the beginning I was looking for a conversion which DID NOT require ANY EXternal box, components, etc, and the PerTronix unit filled that requirement. WITHOUT QUESTION, there are ignition systems out there which DO provide a heck of a lot more firepower. But they are also exposed and can be seen. My objective was to have something dependable, an improvement over points and not visible. I will admit, that with the PerTronix unit, there is an additional red wire----------------------------------------------------BUT IT IS HIDDEN IF YOU HAVE THE IGNITION SHIELDING INSTALLED! Therefore, the PerTronix fulfills all my needs. The first one which I installed 10yrs ago on my 56 has never been touched.

 

BigBlock60,
If if took only 20 mins to install your Pertronix you must have the 1181LSC model. That's what I have in my 64. Odd thing about that unit-you have to turn the ignition to ON, take 3-5 seconds to fasten your seat belt, and then start the car.
Joe

 

SAME HERE. PUT ONE IN MY 62 FUELIE A YEAR AGO AND HAVE NOT TOUCHED IT SINCE. STARTS FAST AND RUNS WELL ALL THE TO 5500 RPM. NO COMPLAINTS AT ALL. :cool:

 

I have one in mine. Pros - less work than points, seems to be okay.

Cons - the plate that weights rest on, that rotates as the distributor rotates, is not perfectly flat always. It has some run out. So, in my case, I had checked the gap between the ring which rotates, and the module which is fixed, but after installing, driving the car, I noticed that the gap had changed, and in fact the ring was now rubbing against the fixed module. I pried the module away a bit to fix the gap. Well, this was rubbing the plastic for a while, and some is worn away.

That is one problem I found with mine.

Also, make sure the + on the pertronix unit is hooked to an ignition controlled 12 volt source, not a source that has a ballast resistor inline.

 

Thanks all....Will be installing one next week when I also install a E-Z wiring harness and rebuild the tack drive unit in the distributor. Hopefully this can be completed in 3-5 days. :crazy:

 

And Joe is correct. The 1181LSC installs in a short time and the 1181 takes somewhat longer and requires removal of the dist. I personally prefer the 1181. By removing the dist, it provides an opportunity to totally disassemble it, clean it, shim the gear and replace any worn parts as necessary. Plus, it starts instantly because no charging time is required.

But, aqgain, the 1181LSC installs faster, easier and does not require dist removal.


[Modified by DZAUTO, 10:29 AM 8/15/2002]

 

Unless you have an aftermarket coil that specifically requires a full 12 volts to the (+) terminal, do NOT remove the ballast resistor (or resistance wire); the Pertronix module wants a full 12 volts, but if you have an OEM coil, the coil still wants the reduced voltage provided by the resistor. If you run an OEM coil (which is designed to operate on 7-8 volts continuous) at 12 volts, you'll eventually fry it. Their instructions don't explain this very well - you want to bypass the resistance to get 12 volts to the module, but you still need the resistance in series with the power feed to an OEM coil.

 

I installed one just about 2 years ago now. not a single problem to report, my buddy has had his in for 3 plus now and same thing. I do feel you dont get the hot spark that one might get from a point set up but you have no headaches and worries, so unless you are going to race you car go for it.

 

I had the Ignitor and Ignitor2, both properly installed with their Flame Thrower coil. The first one died after 2,000 miles, the second after less than 1,000. I'm not the only one to experience problems. Post this in the C3 forum for more input.

:cheers:


[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 2:15 AM 8/16/2002]

 

I have read some complaints about the one where you turn the ignition on and have to wait 3-5 seconds to start the car. This sounds like it would become very annoying unless you like to play Batman and Robin and wait for your rocket thrusters to warm up.

 

Can I then use ballast resistor with Flawethrower coil? I left the resistor in place, since their instructions are not that clear.

 

ChrisP, what pPertronix unit did you use on the fuelie distributer? Did you have to remove the distributer or do anything special? Thinking of putting one on my fuelie. Tx, Ed :cheers:

 

I haven't seen their instructions for the Flamethrower coil - if they aren't clear, call or e-mail their support people on whether their coil wants a full 12 volts or the standard resistor-reduced voltage.

 

Here is what I have on my 56 and what I have hooked up on most other cars.
My 56 has a SB400, FI with a 65 vac advance FI dist, PerTronix 1181 (with the magnet wheel) Flamethrower coil, stock ballast resistor and the red wire is connected to the +side of the coil (which means it receives less than 12volts). My other cars and my boat are connected the same way. For example, my 70 Chevelle has a factory resistance wire, rather than a ballast resistor, and the red wire is still connected to the +side of the coil. All of them work great.