Headlight Problems
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Mansfield Ohio
Headlight Problems
The headlights on my 1960 have decided to give me problems. They will turn on and work fine, but after several minutes they will shut off. Then after a minute or two they will work again... and the cycle continues. The taillights and turn signals work fine. I have steady power into the switch (one year old and the wiring is all new. My guess is that it is a poor ground somewhere, but not really sure of a process for zeroing in on the problem spot. Any suggestions?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
There is a thermal breaker in the headlight switch that 'strobes' the lights when there are issues; theoretically - that will let you see well enough to limp to a stop. Could be the switch itself or old wiring/corroded connectors...any of these items can overload the breaker. Headlights are not fused in the traditional sense.
If its a repro switch that could be an issue (you say your wiring is new) I've heard some of the repros are junk...
If its a repro switch that could be an issue (you say your wiring is new) I've heard some of the repros are junk...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Mansfield Ohio
Any suggestions on diagnosing the switch> Even if it was a repo, it was an expensive repo and electric parts are usually non returnable. I'd like to be sure before I buy another. Also, if I do, where should I go to get a reliable switch? Thanks for the quick replies.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,145
Army
OK - are the headlights T3s, Halogens, or what ? Some of those light upgrades draw more current. Is ALL the wiring new...all the way from the switch to the 2 and 3 prong headlight connectors ? Does the problem occur on lo beam or just hi beam ?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Mansfield Ohio
Just noticed I did not answer one question - when it goes down it is both high and low beams, but not any other electrical parts.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
Halogens aren't your problem and the new wiring seems to exonerate that as the issue. I think you got a bum repro switch and I don't know of a way to evaluate those; you'd have to simulate an active load and then determine if the thermal reset point is too low. I certainly have no equipment for that.
You have three options:
1) Add relays to the headlight hi-amp circuit and eliminate the switch carrying all of the load. Eckler's and Mad Electric sell the kits.
2) Return the switch to Paragon and roll the dice on another one.
3) Only drive during the day.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Mansfield Ohio
The headlights are on a dedicated circuit and a malfunction there won't affect any other lights or other components.
Halogens aren't your problem and the new wiring seems to exonerate that as the issue. I think you got a bum repro switch and I don't know of a way to evaluate those; you'd have to simulate an active load and then determine if the thermal reset point is too low. I certainly have no equipment for that.
You have three options:
1) Add relays to the headlight hi-amp circuit and eliminate the switch carrying all of the load. Eckler's and Mad Electric sell the kits.
2) Return the switch to Paragon and roll the dice on another one.
3) Only drive during the day.
Halogens aren't your problem and the new wiring seems to exonerate that as the issue. I think you got a bum repro switch and I don't know of a way to evaluate those; you'd have to simulate an active load and then determine if the thermal reset point is too low. I certainly have no equipment for that.
You have three options:
1) Add relays to the headlight hi-amp circuit and eliminate the switch carrying all of the load. Eckler's and Mad Electric sell the kits.
2) Return the switch to Paragon and roll the dice on another one.
3) Only drive during the day.
I have a fourth possibility. I once owned a 74 MGB (Lucus Electric!!!!!!!) and the headlights both went out one night. I went to the local Dollar store and bought two flashlights. Drove home with my girl friend standing over the windshield holding the flashlights. It worked with slow driving but it's kinda tacky. Think I'll go for the new switch.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,528
Likes: 444
The quartz headlights are an up grade when you put both high and low beams on it draws more current and the breaker will open up that's how it works headlight switch is fine .
They make a kit that you have to use as an up grade it plugs into
dimmer switch on floor no splicing wires plug and play .
I did come directly of the battery with help from forum guys.
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HR-56
Last edited by rtruman; May 23, 2015 at 02:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Mansfield Ohio
Headlight issue
I pretty sure that I know what it is,Think about this did it just give you problems or you just noticed it while driving at night
The quartz headlights are an up grade when you put both high and low beams on it draws more current and the breaker will open up that's how it works headlight switch is fine .
They make a kit that you have to use as an up grade it plugs into
dimmer switch on floor no splicing wires plug and play .
I did come directly of the battery with help from forum guys.
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HR-56
The quartz headlights are an up grade when you put both high and low beams on it draws more current and the breaker will open up that's how it works headlight switch is fine .
They make a kit that you have to use as an up grade it plugs into
dimmer switch on floor no splicing wires plug and play .
I did come directly of the battery with help from forum guys.
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HR-56
Pro
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 707
Likes: 45
From: Portland Oregon
Headlights
Headlight relays also offer the advantage of brighter lights due to less voltage drop at the sockets. Additionally they route some of the load off the headlight switch. The headlight switch would only control the relay coils a much lighter load. Power for the headlights is taken from the battery or horn relay buss. Check archives for more details
Randy
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,528
Likes: 444
Yes , take the load off of light switch and the new harness wiring by running fused at battery #12 wire to in put at relay in foot well location . it was easy to tuck behind stock wiring on front engine bay. lights will be brighter and wiring protected for long run. This job should take 1 hour tops.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,145
Army
The relays are indeed a nice upgrade, I made up my own kit and stuck the relays W-A-Y up under the windshield washer fluid tank. You would have to nearly do a headstand to see them from under the hood.
Do you know why I did this conversion in my '61?????
Because the repro headlight switch I bought started strobing the lights about the third time I used it....
Do you know why I did this conversion in my '61?????
Because the repro headlight switch I bought started strobing the lights about the third time I used it....
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,528
Likes: 444
The relays are indeed a nice upgrade, I made up my own kit and stuck the relays W-A-Y up under the windshield washer fluid tank. You would have to nearly do a headstand to see them from under the hood.
Do you know why I did this conversion in my '61?????
Because the repro headlight switch I bought started strobing the lights about the third time I used it....
Do you know why I did this conversion in my '61?????
Because the repro headlight switch I bought started strobing the lights about the third time I used it....
I did my own relays and spliced into dimmer switch .Cant remember when they came on market anybody remember.
