changing to alternator
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
changing to alternator
I'll be changing my generator to a one wire alternator. I've got the needed brackets, but my question is do I go directly to the battery, or the red primary wire coming off the voltage regulator. I know I have to abandon the voltage wiring. Please help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,537
Likes: 280
From: Egg Harbor Township NJ
2015 C2 of Year
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Regulated is better...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Alot to read but you will see that a one wire for your car is not the best way to go.
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; Jun 3, 2015 at 09:35 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,001
Likes: 1,056
From: Arlington TX
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 Restomod of the Year Finalist
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Read This First...
Regulated is better...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Alot to read but you will see that a one wire for your car is not the best way to go.
Regulated is better...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Alot to read but you will see that a one wire for your car is not the best way to go.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,537
Likes: 280
From: Egg Harbor Township NJ
2015 C2 of Year
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Very Popular with Hod rodders who have limited Accessories. But has no way of sensing loads like A/c Headlights and other current draining items. If Your load is heavy then your fine
Will work fine except when it is charging the battery at full Bore with out a heavy load is Sort like water torture..More then needed which makes for a shorten life and water consumption in the battery.
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; Jun 5, 2015 at 05:03 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,537
Likes: 280
From: Egg Harbor Township NJ
2015 C2 of Year
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Here's one I did Form the Mad man...What a difference in brightness in low beams and High Beams..A little work but those Rice Burners got nothing on me..No more Yellow dim Head Lights..
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 65
From: Sugar Land tx
Read This First...
Regulated is better...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Alot to read but you will see that a one wire for your car is not the best way to go.
Regulated is better...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Alot to read but you will see that a one wire for your car is not the best way to go.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,481
Likes: 8,961
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Real remote-sense power supplies have four wires:
V+
V-
V+sense
V-sense
To get remote regulation, you connect V+sense to V+ at the load and, obviously V-sense to V- also at the load.
In an automotive context, V- would connect to chassis ground as would V-sense.
The 3 wire alternators have only one sense wire, V+sense and the load is distributed throughout the car, so it can't possibly provide accurate remote sensing. Your best regulation, which is far from perfect, will be at whatever point the V+sense wire is connected. Regulation everywhere else will be poorer.
Your best bet, regardless of what type of alternator you select is to run large enough conductors that the Voltage drop between the alternator and the load is minimal.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,537
Likes: 280
From: Egg Harbor Township NJ
2015 C2 of Year
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
True and, IMHO, it's much ado about very little.
Real remote-sense power supplies have four wires:
V+
V-
V+sense
V-sense
To get remote regulation, you connect V+sense to V+ at the load and, obviously V-sense to V- also at the load.
In an automotive context, V- would connect to chassis ground as would V-sense.
The 3 wire alternators have only one sense wire, V+sense and the load is distributed throughout the car, so it can't possibly provide accurate remote sensing. Your best regulation, which is far from perfect, will be at whatever point the V+sense wire is connected. Regulation everywhere else will be poorer.
Your best bet, regardless of what type of alternator you select is to run large enough conductors that the Voltage drop between the alternator and the load is minimal.
Jim
Real remote-sense power supplies have four wires:
V+
V-
V+sense
V-sense
To get remote regulation, you connect V+sense to V+ at the load and, obviously V-sense to V- also at the load.
In an automotive context, V- would connect to chassis ground as would V-sense.
The 3 wire alternators have only one sense wire, V+sense and the load is distributed throughout the car, so it can't possibly provide accurate remote sensing. Your best regulation, which is far from perfect, will be at whatever point the V+sense wire is connected. Regulation everywhere else will be poorer.
Your best bet, regardless of what type of alternator you select is to run large enough conductors that the Voltage drop between the alternator and the load is minimal.
Jim
I use a Power master 140 Amp Alternator with an internal Voltage regulator. The sense + wire is connected at the Horn Bus terminal where one leg of the Dash Battery gauge is connected.
Since my Vette has dual electric Spal Fans and A/C with a Electric clutch as well as other added accessories The alternator does a great job keeping everything in check.
This is not brain surgery, but a Viable working system. I have an Under hood digital Voltage Meter which shows me what goes on when loads are applied to the system.
I can see that the 3 wire keeps up with the changing loads as they are applied and then removed.
Never had a problem running everything at once. So to me it makes sense. As a Friend once told me... "It's your Corvette..Do what you want with It."