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Hi friends. Trying to figure out why I'm burning up power window switches. The first one burned out a few months ago. It had been in the car for the 15 years that I've owned it with no problems and then it burned. Have now replaced it twice more and they don't last long, about a month or so. When I replace the switch, the windows work fine, normal speed, no indications of any problems. After a short while the windows seem to slow down and i'm holding the switch longer and then they start to short out and smoke. I realize the switches are made from our friends in China and the quality is probably suspect but there is no alternative when you buy a new one. I'm not certain thats the problem though. Should I be looking at the power window motors? Something else? Your thought would be appreciated. Thanks, Marv
Hi friends. Trying to figure out why I'm burning up power window switches. The first one burned out a few months ago. It had been in the car for the 15 years that I've owned it with no problems and then it burned. Have now replaced it twice more and they don't last long, about a month or so. When I replace the switch, the windows work fine, normal speed, no indications of any problems. After a short while the windows seem to slow down and i'm holding the switch longer and then they start to short out and smoke. I realize the switches are made from our friends in China and the quality is probably suspect but there is no alternative when you buy a new one. I'm not certain thats the problem though. Should I be looking at the power window motors? Something else? Your thought would be appreciated. Thanks, Marv
That's probably why they added a relay to the power window circuit for 1967.
Marv - There is a Circuit Breaker in the earlier PW setups, I would have expected the circuit breaker to interrupt the power feed when there's too much draw. Backing up a bit, when this first started happening was the first switch a factory switch or was it an offshore part? You mention 'windows' (plural) so this isn't just an issue with one particular window?
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Vet65te. I believe the first switch was an original. Both windows are acting up the same in that they slow down and struggle to go up or down. Heavy current draw, the amp gauge pegs over to the left all the way with the car not running. I rewired the car about 13 years ago with no issues to date. No circuit breakers popping or such.
From: Kingston, TN, Denham Springs, LA & Agoura Hills CA
My current draw for the windows - 1965
Originally Posted by MarvBarrish
Vet65te. I believe the first switch was an original. Both windows are acting up the same in that they slow down and struggle to go up or down. Heavy current draw, the amp gauge pegs over to the left all the way with the car not running. I rewired the car about 13 years ago with no issues to date. No circuit breakers popping or such.
Up or down, each current indication was about 10 to 15 Adc. The meter is type +/_40Adc full scale.
When was the last time you cleaned the old grease out of the gear box on the motors? If never, now would be a good time. The old grease can get hard as a rock and draw resistance and your switches are going to take the brunt of it. BTW, I had a aftermarket switch go bad after a few months with new motors, wiring and circuit breaker. I rebuilt the old one and now all is fine. Jerry
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