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L71 initial startup

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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
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Ceramic Seal is not compatible with anit-freeze

All antifreeze MUST be removed before using...

Make sure you run this through "Irontite Thoro-Flush" before you put in the Irontite...
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Leave t-stat out. Keep a water hose handy to mist down radiator to keep it cool. Fill radiator with only water. Fan in front of radiator helps.
JIM
DO NOT leave T-Stat out! It is designed to put some back pressure on the water pump. Without the BP, the WP will cavitate, reducing flow and possibly overheating engine.

Yogi
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Y0GI
DO NOT leave T-Stat out! It is designed to put some back pressure on the water pump. Without the BP, the WP will cavitate, reducing flow and possibly overheating engine.

Yogi
Not even close to reality. How does it add back pressure to a water pump once it opens? A water pump just needs to have water in it with no air pockets...which you will have when you fill the system. Heck I don't even run a t-stat on my 555" all year round. Never over heats.

The point of leaving it out during break in is because we're going to be running it at high idle and there is going to be a lot of heat built up quickly as the engine seats rings. We don't need a t-stat delaying cooling things off until it hits 180*. We want LOTS of water flow and circulation immediately to slow down the tendency to overheat with no airflow moving around the engine and radiator. The old wives tale about water going through the radiator too fast is just that also....wives tale. Won't be an issue with the stuff we're dealing with here.

JIM
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 02:52 PM
  #24  
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Those GM tablets work really well also. GM puts the stuff in everything on the line these days. Lots of parts stores have them on an A/C Delco card. And they work with antifreeze.

http://www.acdelco.com/auto-parts/ve...seal-tabs.html


JIM
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Not even close to reality. How does it add back pressure to a water pump once it opens? A water pump just needs to have water in it with no air pockets...which you will have when you fill the system. Heck I don't even run a t-stat on my 555" all year round. Never over heats.

The point of leaving it out during break in is because we're going to be running it at high idle and there is going to be a lot of heat built up quickly as the engine seats rings. We don't need a t-stat delaying cooling things off until it hits 180*. We want LOTS of water flow and circulation immediately to slow down the tendency to overheat with no airflow moving around the engine and radiator. The old wives tale about water going through the radiator too fast is just that also....wives tale. Won't be an issue with the stuff we're dealing with here.

JIM
Cavitation in centrifugal pumps is due to insufficient inlet pressure, not outlet pressure.

Any tribosystem generates a lot of heat during its initial break-in. Anything that improves coolant flow or heat exchange is an asset during engine break-in.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 10:51 PM
  #26  
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With a running engine and using ceramic it works (I have used it) With a fresh rebuild pull the head and do it right!!!!!
With all the concerns of a rebuild start up taking a chance it won't swallow a valve, seat or guide along with the water.
Buy one head or a full BIG BLOCK what are you calling it L71
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by skip57
With a running engine and using ceramic it works (I have used it) With a fresh rebuild pull the head and do it right!!!!!
With all the concerns of a rebuild start up taking a chance it won't swallow a valve, seat or guide along with the water.
Buy one head or a full BIG BLOCK what are you calling it L71
Skip57, I don't understand the last line of your post
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #28  
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well here is the latest in my saga, finally got the car started today, didnt install the lower cover on the bellhousing properly and it was creating a hell of a racket that was quite concerning, the water leak is still there, its smoking out of the drivers side exhaust , so I guess I will try the irontite tomorrow. I know lots of people would consider this a bandaid, but it has been beautiful weather here in Victoria B.C. for the last two months, and I want to drive this thing. one other problem I have though , is that i can get the car running on the fuel that i dump down the carb vents, but i am not getting fuel from the tank yet, the tank was dry because I had to install a new sender, but it has a brand new fuel pump, and I pulled the line off and there is no fuel present , just wondered are you suppose to prime the fuel system somehow?
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 10:00 AM
  #29  
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Default bad head

Originally Posted by Dave Cunningham
Skip57, I don't understand the last line of your post
Buying one dated coded L71 head is a lot cheaper then a rebuild of any big block.
Or you can rebuild the head you have.
If the original builder damaged one head I wonder how he did on the other head.
BBC valve guides pass through the water jackets cracks at this point. Can cause water intrusion to the intake and exhaust ports.
A crack leaking with no pressure on it I would guess it is an open crack that may not closeup with ceramic sealer.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 10:15 AM
  #30  
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Disconnect the fuel line at the carb. pressurize the tank and push fuel to the carb. or use a vacuums pump to get fuel to the carb.
With a new can shaft at risk there is a lot to monitor. A known water leak is just one more problem you don't need.
BEST OF LUCK
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