Starting fail
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 638
Likes: 110
From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
Starting fail
After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
If it doesn't fire and backfires you have it way out of time. Crank it and twist the dizzy until it wants to run. The dial it in with a light
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
I marked the distributor body on the intake and the location of the rotor while it was at 0 TDC. I don't see how I could have eff'ed it up. Possible...sure.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
? When it comes to the dizzy, it makes me dizzy. I'm lost. I don't know what you mean.
Before I took the dizzy out I rotated the engine to 0 TDC. Then I marked the location of the body on the intake. Then I pulled the cap and marked the location of the rotor. I put it all back in the same way.
Why would it matter at 0TDC if it went back the same way?
Before I took the dizzy out I rotated the engine to 0 TDC. Then I marked the location of the body on the intake. Then I pulled the cap and marked the location of the rotor. I put it all back in the same way.
Why would it matter at 0TDC if it went back the same way?
Last edited by Spike66; Aug 2, 2015 at 08:30 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,188
Likes: 9,476
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 196
From: Wilton Ca.
After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I also suggest that if you're running a Holley you may have blown the power valve so you might check that as well (after you've diagnose the initial issue). Easiest way to check it is to run the A/F screws in all the way (gently). If the motor dies you should be ok there. Good luck.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; Aug 2, 2015 at 11:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7,037
Likes: 603
From: Limerick Pa
I would try and figure what the smoke was. Im thinking you cooked the electronics and smoke was coming from inside distributor. Go back to basics and see if its fuel or electric. You seem sure you didn't turn dist 180? Find the smoke and you will figure the problem.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 101
From: Riverhead New York
Basics. Pull #1, Bring up to Compression Stroke, Line up Damper Line to TDC. Now check Rotor Position to #1 on Dist. Cap. Once all is proper give it a go after turning back Dist. to a slight Retard position. Attempt to start. Be careful, it might! Good Luck and keep us posted. Al W.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 196
From: Wilton Ca.
You said the motor is stock but just thought I'd ask anyway. Did you happen to have an aftermarket cam installed? If so, the distributor drive gear may be off by a 1/2 a tooth in which case you'll need to remove the distributor drive gear and turn it 180° to be able set it up proper as aftermarket cams aren't indexed to the stock distributor. Ask me how I know. 
Gary
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; Aug 2, 2015 at 11:54 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 335
From: Homewood Alabama
Read thoroughly and follow the instructions. As others have said, your distributor is not installed correctly.
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,147
Army
Check for an ignition wire shorted under the center radio shielding. That smoke is a telltale that something electrical went amiss. You don't sound confident that you connected your electronic points conversion correctly -- that may be mis-wired or blown.
Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.
IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.
Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.
IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 3, 2015 at 06:20 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,528
Likes: 444
After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
if I remember the ballast resister was deleted.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 801
Likes: 19
From: Moose country Vermont
Yup, Make sure you reconnected the plug wires to the proper location. If you have just 2 wires crossed, the engine can backfire. As far as not running at all, could be several things. I would check the wiring(all) first especially if you saw smoke. Did it smell like burning wire insulation? Something got hot. I would not go further till I figured that out. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 638
Likes: 110
From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
Check for an ignition wire shorted under the center radio shielding. That smoke is a telltale that something electrical went amiss. You don't sound confident that you connected your electronic points conversion correctly -- that may be mis-wired or blown.
Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.
IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.
Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.
IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 638
Likes: 110
From: Flakewood Wrench, FL
Read thoroughly and follow the instructions. As others have said, your distributor is not installed correctly.
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf