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I hate electrical stuff

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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 09:29 PM
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Default I hate electrical stuff

Keep thinking I am ready to drive. Everything now working, BUT, gas gauge seems to be reading correctly until I put on the brakes, then it goes to FULL. I mean pegged on full. I figure a ground problem, yes? But where do I start to look? I am always reluctant to post and show my stupidity! Thanks, Don
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 62BarnVette
Keep thinking I am ready to drive. Everything now working, BUT, gas gauge seems to be reading correctly until I put on the brakes, then it goes to FULL. I mean pegged on full. I figure a ground problem, yes? But where do I start to look? I am always reluctant to post and show my stupidity! Thanks, Don
Goes to full just stepping on the brakes at a stand still, or moving and slowing down?

Oh, and showing your stupidity here is an act of courage! Ask away!


Gerry
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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The 'dancing' gas gauge is a common C1 problem...JohnZ provides a solution in this document.
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C1FuelGaugeTech.pdf (135.5 KB, 169 views)
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 62BarnVette
Keep thinking I am ready to drive. Everything now working, BUT, gas gauge seems to be reading correctly until I put on the brakes, then it goes to FULL. I mean pegged on full. I figure a ground problem, yes? But where do I start to look? I am always reluctant to post and show my stupidity! Thanks, Don
Is the car you're hating electrical stuff on the 62 in your avatar?
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Is the car you're hating electrical stuff on the 62 in your avatar?
That is the one!
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mossy66
Goes to full just stepping on the brakes at a stand still, or moving and slowing down?

Oh, and showing your stupidity here is an act of courage! Ask away!


Gerry
Goes to full whenever I push the brake pedal, standing still or moving.
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 62BarnVette
Goes to full whenever I push the brake pedal, standing still or moving.
Sounds like JohnZ's article is the fix for you.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Sounds like JohnZ's article is the fix for you.
FIGURES! I just put the cover on the gas tank over the weekend. I think there is a wire in the tank compartment that is not connected. Didn't know what it was for so I tapped the end and left it here. Doesn't really matter because I think the filler hose is leaking. Sat in a barn since 1975 so I am sure the hose is not ethanol proof. OH WELL! Spent the last 60 years working on cars by that "other company" Model 'A's and Early V8s. That didn't always go smooth either.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 12:29 AM
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You want a separate home made ground wire, about 10 ga with soldered terminals to connect the gas sender to the frame.
use one of the gas sender attaching screws for connecting one end of the wire, and drill a small hole and tap it in the frame for the other end of your new ground wire.

That will fix a lot of ground problems on your car.

Doug

Last edited by AZDoug; Sep 17, 2015 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 62BarnVette
FIGURES! I just put the cover on the gas tank over the weekend. I think there is a wire in the tank compartment that is not connected. Didn't know what it was for so I tapped the end and left it here. Doesn't really matter because I think the filler hose is leaking. Sat in a barn since 1975 so I am sure the hose is not ethanol proof. OH WELL! Spent the last 60 years working on cars by that "other company" Model 'A's and Early V8s. That didn't always go smooth either.
Any rubber parts related to fuel should prob be swapped out or else you're going to have another 'classic C1 problem'...a nasty fuel smell in the car all the time. Replace the filler neck rubber line, the long vent hose, the drain tube that exits the filler cap cavity and the little 'drop down' rubber line under the car that goes from the tank to the main 'hard' fuel line - its about 6" long. Change the fuel cap to a non-vented version too. Seal the tank cover with that gray, close cell foam insulation that's sticky on one side and get rid of the gooey strip caulk. You'll want to be absolutely sure the tank is rust free while you're re-working this area
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