Brake O-Ring Conversion - Advice needed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 145
Likes: 17
From: Centerton, AR
Brake O-Ring Conversion - Advice needed
After a rather scary drive that involved the brake pedal going to the floor, panic, and a very slow stop, I decided to redo the brakes on the '65. Upon further inspection, it looked like the pistons were leaking on three out of four calipers. I don't drive the car very often, so it wasn't too surprising to see that the lip seals were the culprits.
I decided to do an O-ring conversion. I'm following a tutorial from CSSBInc. And it says to degrease using a soap like Simple Green. I did that, and the stainless steel cylinder walls have a mirror finish and look great. But everywhere else, including the bottom of the cylinders and the fluid ports, has what appears to be a fine layer of surface rust.
Do I need to worry about it? If so, what's the best way to remove it?
Thanks,
John
I decided to do an O-ring conversion. I'm following a tutorial from CSSBInc. And it says to degrease using a soap like Simple Green. I did that, and the stainless steel cylinder walls have a mirror finish and look great. But everywhere else, including the bottom of the cylinders and the fluid ports, has what appears to be a fine layer of surface rust.
Do I need to worry about it? If so, what's the best way to remove it?
Thanks,
John
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 145
Likes: 17
From: Centerton, AR
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 31,804
Likes: 2,398
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
John,
I recently did this job on my '65, after the brake pedal went to the floor, fortunately for me in the garage. I cannot imagine having the brakes go out at speed.
The sleeves only cover the cylindrical bore, and the bottom of the bore is just the iron of the caliper body. Clean it as best you can - I used stainless steel wool, coat them with a light coat of brake fluid, and reassemble them.
In the absence of water and oxygen (air) no significant amount of oxidation will occur before you get them back together, and filled with fresh brake fluid, and you will be fine.
Btw, it's also a great time to replace old rubber brake lines, and in my case, hard lines as well.
Good luck.
I recently did this job on my '65, after the brake pedal went to the floor, fortunately for me in the garage. I cannot imagine having the brakes go out at speed.
The sleeves only cover the cylindrical bore, and the bottom of the bore is just the iron of the caliper body. Clean it as best you can - I used stainless steel wool, coat them with a light coat of brake fluid, and reassemble them.
In the absence of water and oxygen (air) no significant amount of oxidation will occur before you get them back together, and filled with fresh brake fluid, and you will be fine.
Btw, it's also a great time to replace old rubber brake lines, and in my case, hard lines as well.
Good luck.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
Now would also be a very good time to hit them with some "Cast Blast" or some hi-temp clear. I also like to "bake" them in the oven on LO (or 200 degrees) before and after painting them for about 30 minutes. (But be sure to wait for a time when the wife is away... most have no sense of humor when it comes to baking car parts!)
It will keep them looking good for years.
Good luck... GUSTO
It will keep them looking good for years.
Good luck... GUSTO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Denatured alcohol
Looks like the Evapo-Rust did the trick. I don't know if will leave a residue that will not mix well with brake fluid. I would clean the bores and passageways with denatured alcohol and pipe cleaners. As others have mentioned, I would use brake fluid as a coating and lubricant. Good luck. Jerry