Spring Compressor?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 143
Likes: 8
From: Milwaukie Oregon
Spring Compressor?
I'm about to install the front springs and in the process of creating my own spring compressor. Several folks talk about using 5/8" all thread a couple of washers for the shock tower and plate steel for interleaving the spring. Question: how thick of steel should this be? 1/2"x5"x7" okay?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 725
From: Fountain Hills Arizona
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Run the all thread thru the shock mounting hole at the top, and all the way out the bottom of the lower a-arm, and use your 1/2" steel plate across the bottom with some rubber between it and the a-arm to keep from scratching the paint.
Connect the spindle to the upper and lower ball joints, make absolutely sure the spring is seated properly in the top pocket and the lower a-arm, make sure it is indexed so the ends of the spring set in the depressions. I welded the nut on top of the all thread so you can turn it with a socket while holding the bottom nut with a box end wrench.
Start cranking the nut and bring the lower a-arm front and rear mounting holes into place on the front cross member and put the bolts in. I just did this the other day, takes about 15-20 minutes per side. As others have already said, lube the all thread so the nut doesn't gall.
Connect the spindle to the upper and lower ball joints, make absolutely sure the spring is seated properly in the top pocket and the lower a-arm, make sure it is indexed so the ends of the spring set in the depressions. I welded the nut on top of the all thread so you can turn it with a socket while holding the bottom nut with a box end wrench.
Start cranking the nut and bring the lower a-arm front and rear mounting holes into place on the front cross member and put the bolts in. I just did this the other day, takes about 15-20 minutes per side. As others have already said, lube the all thread so the nut doesn't gall.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,546
Likes: 1,978
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Spring compressor
I used 5/8" all stock as mentioned above. I also used a ratchet wrench to draw the nut down. Makes the job easier. I also used double nuts for safety. Jerry
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,049
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From: St. Clair Shores MI
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
2017 C2 of the Year Finalist
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 143
Likes: 8
From: Milwaukie Oregon
thanks everyone, I'm hoping to get to it tonight.
Crawling underneath the car to bolt in the control arm while the spring is compress is a little unnerving... I'll also use the floor jack as back up.
Crawling underneath the car to bolt in the control arm while the spring is compress is a little unnerving... I'll also use the floor jack as back up.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,077
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From: Reno Nv
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 143
Likes: 8
From: Milwaukie Oregon
Installed the passenger side last night. This is the sequence I went about.
- connect the spindle to lower control arm
- placed lower control arm/spindle and spring under the shock tower
- ran all thread from the shock tower through the spring/lower control arm and attached with 1/2 plate steel under the control arm.
- this is where it got a little dicey, lifted the lower control arm/spring onto wood blocks adjusted the lower all thread nuts to take out the slack.
- align the spring 3/8" from the end stop of upper tower.
- began cranking from the top shock tower
- bolted in the upper control arm and compressed the spring further to where I could use a floor jack to lift the lower control arm's cross bar into the sub frame and bolt into place.
I had read in the forum to set the upper spring stop and not worry about where the lower spring stop ends. In doing so the lower spring stop is about 3/4" or so away from the end stop. Is this okay/typical?
- connect the spindle to lower control arm
- placed lower control arm/spindle and spring under the shock tower
- ran all thread from the shock tower through the spring/lower control arm and attached with 1/2 plate steel under the control arm.
- this is where it got a little dicey, lifted the lower control arm/spring onto wood blocks adjusted the lower all thread nuts to take out the slack.
- align the spring 3/8" from the end stop of upper tower.
- began cranking from the top shock tower
- bolted in the upper control arm and compressed the spring further to where I could use a floor jack to lift the lower control arm's cross bar into the sub frame and bolt into place.
I had read in the forum to set the upper spring stop and not worry about where the lower spring stop ends. In doing so the lower spring stop is about 3/4" or so away from the end stop. Is this okay/typical?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,738
Likes: 3,723
From: Central Arkansas
I don't know if it's typical but it's not unusual. It's OK. I've never tried the method of bolting up the spindle first and then swinging the a-arm up and bolt it to the frame. I can see where that might work better especially with the standard suspension springs that are so long.