Missing steering damper
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 15
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Missing steering damper
Hi all I'm new to the forum. I just bought a 65 convertible that needs a little work. When I test drove it the steering was really loose so I suspected it needed ball joints and a steering box adjustment/rebuild. But today I got under the car and realized there is no steering damper. Even the brackets on both ends are not there. So I went to the web to buy the parts and their available but they all have a caveat that says "except for High Performance". My car is a 327 with the 4 barrel Holly. So the question is; should I or shouldn't I have a steering damper?
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From: Shamong, NJ
It depends on what your original engine was.
The 2 solid lifter engines, the 327/365 and FI 327/375, both came with a larger, 5 quart capacity oil pan. The longer sump on the 5 qt pan, precluded using the steering damper, or having power steering.
Only the 327/250, 327/300 and 327/350, came with a damper.
By the way, welcome to the Forum!
The 2 solid lifter engines, the 327/365 and FI 327/375, both came with a larger, 5 quart capacity oil pan. The longer sump on the 5 qt pan, precluded using the steering damper, or having power steering.
Only the 327/250, 327/300 and 327/350, came with a damper.
By the way, welcome to the Forum!
Last edited by gbvette62; Dec 30, 2015 at 05:36 PM. Reason: Added welcome
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 15
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
It depends on what your original engine was.
The 2 solid lifter engines, the 327/365 and FI 327/375, both came with a larger, 5 quart capacity oil pan. The longer sump on the 5 qt pan, precluded using the steering damper, or having power steering.
Only the 327/250, 327/300 and 327/350, came with a damper.
By the way, welcome to the Forum!
The 2 solid lifter engines, the 327/365 and FI 327/375, both came with a larger, 5 quart capacity oil pan. The longer sump on the 5 qt pan, precluded using the steering damper, or having power steering.
Only the 327/250, 327/300 and 327/350, came with a damper.
By the way, welcome to the Forum!
Thanks, and thanks for the quick response!!! Well I don't have FI but it could be a 327/365 even though I was told it was a 350. If they made cars without the damper, I'm now guessing that my loose steering must come from the steering box. Everything below the car feels tight but there's at least 3 inches of play in the steering wheel.
Team Owner
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un bolt one thing at a time and see where or when the play stops. it could be a list of things.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Reno Nv
Thanks, and thanks for the quick response!!! Well I don't have FI but it could be a 327/365 even though I was told it was a 350. If they made cars without the damper, I'm now guessing that my loose steering must come from the steering box. Everything below the car feels tight but there's at least 3 inches of play in the steering wheel.
The looseness has absolutely nothing to do with missing damper.
You need someone to turn the wheel while you check everything, tie rods, idler arm, ball joints and wheel bearings (on jack stands).
3 inches is a good bit but could be caused by a bad tie rod end, or you may be right, could be the box.
As NowWhere said, you need to check each piece one at a time.
BTW, a couple of my C2 daily drivers way back had the dampers missing, drove them for years that way.
Race Director
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Thanks, and thanks for the quick response!!! Well I don't have FI but it could be a 327/365 even though I was told it was a 350. If they made cars without the damper, I'm now guessing that my loose steering must come from the steering box. Everything below the car feels tight but there's at least 3 inches of play in the steering wheel.
Larry
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
And adding a dampener will just dampen any steering kickback, but will not help 3" of play.
Start with the rag joint and work your way down until you find and fix the worn out part(s).
3 inches is a lot, I would also not be driving it until I knew where it was at risk of letting go.
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Do you have any mechanical experience. Get a shop manual and focus on the critical steering parts as first suggested. If you don't know how to check ball joints, get someone who does. It's not unusual for a steering box to need rebuilding. The idler arm is a common worn part also. 
Dennis
Dennis
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Do you have any mechanical experience. Get a shop manual and focus on the critical steering parts as first suggested. If you don't know how to check ball joints, get someone who does. It's not unusual for a steering box to need rebuilding. The idler arm is a common worn part also. Dennis
DennisI have done a number of cars, just not a Vette. When I test drove the car both the steering and brakes were way below what I felt was safe so I did have it towed to my work shop. The plan is to get it safe and then drive it a little for the next few years before I do a full resto. Other than the steering and the brakes, the only other issue is the body and paint where it has some blisters and just a generally poor paint job. (although from 20' it looks good) This one will be a real fun project. My last one was a 53 Chevy Half Ton 5 Window :-)
Safety Car
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Welcome to the Corvette forum, you have a nice looking car.
Post the stamp on the front engine pad and someone will be able to tell the engine horse power. If you can post pictures that always helps and never throw anything away that comes off the car.
Post the stamp on the front engine pad and someone will be able to tell the engine horse power. If you can post pictures that always helps and never throw anything away that comes off the car.
Le Mans Master
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This is where i would start also.
I just helped a friend with a 65 that had play in his steering and the rag joint was real bad. He replaced it and the difference was amazing.
Joe
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I think you have a good mechanical foundation for doing the necessary work. The car looks good and will give you some unique experiences. The CF has a very in-depth group of experienced guys more than willing too help. Dennis
Dennis
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The Corvette steering and front suspension design is basically nearly identical to standard Impala. So trouble shooting steering looseness issues is pretty much just going through the basics looking for worn parts.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Good-looking car you acquired there.
Since you've dealt with older cars you are likely not suffering from ignorance about how 50 year old cars go, turn, and stop as compared to modern cars, so you've got that going for you.
Curious about what you said about the brakes, too. My '65 with it's completely rebuilt four wheel discs stops smoothly and quickly, but being single-circuit non-power brakes, you can't just brush the pedal like on modern cars. You have to let the pedal know that you want to stop.
Since you've dealt with older cars you are likely not suffering from ignorance about how 50 year old cars go, turn, and stop as compared to modern cars, so you've got that going for you.
Curious about what you said about the brakes, too. My '65 with it's completely rebuilt four wheel discs stops smoothly and quickly, but being single-circuit non-power brakes, you can't just brush the pedal like on modern cars. You have to let the pedal know that you want to stop.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eastern NC
SRK, welcome to the Corvette Forum. Hopefully you will find it to be as interesting and helpful as so many of us have. It is a tremendous resource and repository for an abundance of information on these cars and should relieve some of the stress of owning such and awesome classic.
Like others have suggested, check the rag joint and idler arm first. Why? Because they are a common problem in un-restored older Corvettes, the easiest to diagnose and about the easiest to repair of all the other possible sources of loose steering.
Good luck... GUSTO
Like others have suggested, check the rag joint and idler arm first. Why? Because they are a common problem in un-restored older Corvettes, the easiest to diagnose and about the easiest to repair of all the other possible sources of loose steering.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 15
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Thanks all for all of the advice!!! On my brakes it turns out that the master cylinder was only about 20% full with stuff that looked like chocolate milk. I bled all 4 brakes with clean Dot3 and I can now lock the wheels. (although they pull some) Still have to stand on the brakes to make it happen however so I'll flush it a couple of more times until I'm 100% sure I got all of the bad stuff out. Disks and pads are good and it has all stainless steel brake lines so someone did a job on them in the recent past. I did go through the steering system this morning and it looks like its in the steering box. The rag joint is solid as a rock but it takes a least a 1/8 turn on the shaft going into the box before the outlet shaft starts to move. I adjusted the lash screw until it was almost flush with the locking nut and that does not help so I believe the box is the first thing I need to replace.
Race Director
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From: NorCal
SRK, You may be aware of the Borgeson "jeep" steering box that a lot of have replaced the stock Sting Ray steering box with. If you'll be driving the car much, it will the car vastly more enjoyable to drive.
Lou
Lou
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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Thanks all for all of the advice!!! On my brakes it turns out that the master cylinder was only about 20% full with stuff that looked like chocolate milk. I bled all 4 brakes with clean Dot3 and I can now lock the wheels. (although they pull some) Still have to stand on the brakes to make it happen however so I'll flush it a couple of more times until I'm 100% sure I got all of the bad stuff out. Disks and pads are good and it has all stainless steel brake lines so someone did a job on them in the recent past. I did go through the steering system this morning and it looks like its in the steering box. The rag joint is solid as a rock but it takes a least a 1/8 turn on the shaft going into the box before the outlet shaft starts to move. I adjusted the lash screw until it was almost flush with the locking nut and that does not help so I believe the box is the first thing I need to replace.
FWIW, I have to really stand on my totally functional '65 non-power brakes in order to lock them up (but it does stop straight when I do so), which I think is normal for these cars.
There are guys that rebuild steering boxes with good reputations, quick turnaround, and good prices. They have the knowledge and special tools to do so easier and better than most of us.
Do a search on the forum to find the good recommendations. Probably don't need to replace it.