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Orginal NOS wing nut

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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:27 PM
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Default Orginal NOS wing nut

Ok is this the real deal some say its truly hard to get part .
Maybe I can pay off my new paint job.

OK while your here see anything wrong I always like the forum input
I know if its something you all will find it .
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:56 PM
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Looks like the NOS sold by LIC which is incorrect and will get a point deduct in judging
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 07:17 PM
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Not sure what you have but I have the LIC wing nut. I recently had my car judged at both Bloomington and NCRS and received no "wing nut" deduct from either event.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jprop
Not sure what you have but I have the LIC wing nut. I recently had my car judged at both Bloomington and NCRS and received no "wing nut" deduct from either event.
You got lucky But then again the one I have passed a chapter meet but got picked up by a very well known person at a regional event.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:06 PM
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Not picking on your car but you asked if there was anything else wrong. I see several items but one may be more for convenience than correctness. It's an item that almost all 63-67 owners have wrong.

Your heater hose routing is incorrect and that causes a few issues. For one, your short hose to the supply tank is too long. That puts the long hoses and "T" fitting closer to the exhaust manifold. However, with the hoses routed the way you have them, it's probably not possible to shorten the short hose because that would place the hoses over the top of the battery.

The correct routing for the 5/8" hose is OVER the short hose to the supply tank. Not under it. Also, the "T" fitting should be rotated so the 3/4" hose comes in at a 45° angle instead of close to horizontal. These two changes would allow you to shorten the short supply tank hose and get the "T" fitting and further outboard.

Also, if you install the clamps on the short hose with the screw/nut facing to the rear instead of the front, you can rotate the supply tank CC and that gets the hose closer to the fender skirt and the tank further away from the battery. It also levels the tank.

Here's a scan of the routing from the assembly manual.

By the way, this drawing is for a 66 so the hand written hose lengths will probably be a bit different than for 63-65.
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Last edited by Critter1; Jan 28, 2016 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter1
Not picking on your car but you asked if there was anything else wrong. I see several items but one may be more for convenience than correctness. It's an item that almost all 63-67 owners have wrong.

Your heater hose routing is incorrect and that causes a few issues. For one, your short hose to the supply tank is too long. That puts the long hoses and "T" fitting closer to the exhaust manifold. However, with the hoses routed the way you have them, it's probably not possible to shorten the short hose because that would place the hoses over the top of the battery.

The correct routing for the 5/8" hose is OVER the short hose to the supply tank. Not under it. Also, the "T" fitting should be rotated so the 3/4" hose comes in at a 45° angle instead of close to horizontal. These two changes would allow you to shorten the short supply tank hose and get the "T" fitting and further outboard.

Also, if you install the clamps on the short hose with the screw/nut facing to the rear instead of the front, you can rotate the supply tank CC and that gets the hose closer to the fender skirt and the tank further away from the battery. It also levels the tank.

Here's a scan of the routing from the assembly manual.
Thanks look like the T IS under the HOSE there is a fitting or kind of
like a coupling marked with number 11 .

Last edited by rtruman; Jan 28, 2016 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rtruman
Thanks look like the T IS under the HOSE there is a fitting or kind of
like a coupling marked with number 11 .
Number 11 is a strap clamp that keeps the hoses together and used in two places.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:46 PM
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I'm confused. How is an installed part New Old Stock (NOS)?
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter1
Number 11 is a strap clamp that keeps the hoses together and used in two places.
Now that makes sense also my hose in running inside the alternator bracket to make everything fit better is would have to redone if you move one thing it wrong on other end .
Sounds like a project for
spring.
Thanks again I know there are at lease 10 items your guys have helped me with just under the hood alone. Wing nut stays its been there since 1990 s

Last edited by rtruman; Jan 28, 2016 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rtruman
Now that makes sense also my hose in running inside the alternator bracket to make everything fit better is would have to redone if you move one thing it wrong on other end .
Sounds like a project for
spring.
Thanks again I know there are at lease 10 items your guys have helped me with just under the hood alone.
Yes, the bracket under the alternator that you mention is used for 63-65. However, the drawing I posted is for 66 and doesn't show the bracket as it was removed for the new 66 model year.

If you have a 63, 64 or 65 AIM, look at the drawing and you will see the bracket.

Last edited by Critter1; Jan 28, 2016 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 10:27 AM
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The wingnut is NOT an original, production line item. You have an over the counter, service replacement wing nut. ARA
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 93RubyRedCoupe
The wingnut is NOT an original, production line item. You have an over the counter, service replacement wing nut. ARA
Ok that's it for me I am selling that POS .Cant take the pressure anymore . I am going to drive the wheels off of it.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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Default Oh God forgive!!!!!

Because I have seen the real NOS ones upwards at $200 in price!
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
Because I have seen the real NOS ones upwards at $200 in price!
There is a difference between NOS parts and the parts used in assembly.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
Because I have seen the real NOS ones upwards at $200 in price!
How would one know what's real or fake anyway.
Can you see some idiot steeling wing nuts at an NCRS meet .
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 02:46 PM
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Power brake booster is wrong.

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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
There is a difference between NOS parts and the parts used in assembly.
I am not going to study it to try to figure out anything about it!
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rtruman
How would one know what's real or fake anyway.
Can you see some idiot steeling wing nuts at an NCRS meet .
If they can get $200 for one, I can see them getting stolen. I guess I had maybe better engrave my Vin in miniature on that, just in case it is actually a real one. With the vin cut ruining it, maybe no one would steal mine, if it is a real one! Corvette logic is interesting to discuss!
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
If they can get $200 for one, I can see them getting stolen. I guess I had maybe better engrave my Vin in miniature on that, just in case it is actually a real one. With the vin cut ruining it, maybe no one would steal mine, if it is a real one! Corvette logic is interesting to discuss!
Maybe I should get two in case I loose one
Some one just emailed me with a price of 175.00 Might be NOS
that way I would not have to restore it.

Last edited by rtruman; Jan 29, 2016 at 05:37 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
If they can get $200 for one, I can see them getting stolen. I guess I had maybe better engrave my Vin in miniature on that, just in case it is actually a real one. Corvette logic is interesting to discuss!


But if you engrave it, you've made it unoriginal.

Corvette logic? Is that an oxymoron, like jumbo shrimp, pretty ugly, or military intelligence?

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