Starter issues
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Starter issues
1964 convertible, 327 - 300 HP, body off resto.
Yesterday, I attempted start my rebuild for the first time. When I turned the key, the starter engaged and the motor turned, but slowly. I turned the key off but the engine kept turning. As I was disconnecting the battery cable to stop the engine, smoke started appearing from near the starter. The battery cables were soft and hot. So, this morning, I removed the starter, re-adjusted the valves ( to be sure they weren't over tightened ), and I attempted to check the starter on my bench. I'm using a battery charger to test it since my battery seems to be in need of a replacement. The armature extends out but doesn't turn.
NOTES, the motor started and worked normally before I tore it down.
I'm using new lectric limited wiring harnesses.
Questions:
Is more voltage necessary to turn the arm?
Was the over heating caused by the continual turning of the starter (about 40-45 sec)?
If the starter turned the engine and key worked, why wouldn't it shut off? To start it would have to be wired correctly, right?
UPDATE:
I tested the starter with another, again on the bench. The starter arm engages but doesn't turn. I held the screw driver (used to jump the terminals on the starter) for a couple seconds to see if the arm would spin but...no dice. The jumper cables I used to test the starter got hot and began smoking. I'm assuming at this point I may have a starter problem, even though it seemed to turn yesterday, only slowly.
Thanks for any advice.
Yesterday, I attempted start my rebuild for the first time. When I turned the key, the starter engaged and the motor turned, but slowly. I turned the key off but the engine kept turning. As I was disconnecting the battery cable to stop the engine, smoke started appearing from near the starter. The battery cables were soft and hot. So, this morning, I removed the starter, re-adjusted the valves ( to be sure they weren't over tightened ), and I attempted to check the starter on my bench. I'm using a battery charger to test it since my battery seems to be in need of a replacement. The armature extends out but doesn't turn.
NOTES, the motor started and worked normally before I tore it down.
I'm using new lectric limited wiring harnesses.
Questions:
Is more voltage necessary to turn the arm?
Was the over heating caused by the continual turning of the starter (about 40-45 sec)?
If the starter turned the engine and key worked, why wouldn't it shut off? To start it would have to be wired correctly, right?
UPDATE:
I tested the starter with another, again on the bench. The starter arm engages but doesn't turn. I held the screw driver (used to jump the terminals on the starter) for a couple seconds to see if the arm would spin but...no dice. The jumper cables I used to test the starter got hot and began smoking. I'm assuming at this point I may have a starter problem, even though it seemed to turn yesterday, only slowly.
Thanks for any advice.
Last edited by Mikey Hawks; 02-08-2016 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Update
#2
1. I do not think you can test a starter with a charger, you have no other car with a fully charged battery to test it with?
2. Did you check the starter pinion gear clearance with the flywheel gear to make sure you dont need shims? The pinion could have been jammed on the gear preventing it from returning.
3. Make sure you didnt melt the fusible link in the wire going to the starter.
4. Make sure all you connections are good including the battery ground to frame and frame to engine. High resistance could cause the cables to heat up.
2. Did you check the starter pinion gear clearance with the flywheel gear to make sure you dont need shims? The pinion could have been jammed on the gear preventing it from returning.
3. Make sure you didnt melt the fusible link in the wire going to the starter.
4. Make sure all you connections are good including the battery ground to frame and frame to engine. High resistance could cause the cables to heat up.
#3
Drifting
There are two smaller wires going to the two smaller solenoid post, make suer you didn't flip flop 'em or hook the both the post. If they are wrong starter won't shut-off...but you issue sounds different to me. Might have a bad ground some place.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
1. I do not think you can test a starter with a charger, you have no other car with a fully charged battery to test it with?
2. Did you check the starter pinion gear clearance with the flywheel gear to make sure you dont need shims? The pinion could have been jammed on the gear preventing it from returning.
3. Make sure you didnt melt the fusible link in the wire going to the starter.
4. Make sure all you connections are good including the battery ground to frame and frame to engine. High resistance could cause the cables to heat up.
2. Did you check the starter pinion gear clearance with the flywheel gear to make sure you dont need shims? The pinion could have been jammed on the gear preventing it from returning.
3. Make sure you didnt melt the fusible link in the wire going to the starter.
4. Make sure all you connections are good including the battery ground to frame and frame to engine. High resistance could cause the cables to heat up.
2. I didn't take any shims off the starter during dis-assembly. I'll check now to be sure.
3. Ill check the fusible link although I don't recall seeing one during installation.
4. I grounded the battery to the bolt attaching the starter to the motor as per the assembly manual. I'll check the grounds on the engine to frame.
Thanks.