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My 64 is in final assembly, tackling the electrics. When I bought the car and before stripping it to the last bolt, some electrics did not work, so I could not check. The headlight switch was even missing.
I am a bit confused about how the red dash 'light' indicator behaves.
Is the following true?
1. Pulling the lighter switch out 1 step powers the parking/tail/instrument panel lights, red light indicator is off
2. Pulling the lighter switch out 2 steps powers the low beams and red lights indicator is on
3. Pressing the toeboard high beam switch puts on high beams and red lights indicator stays on
4. flipping the headlights switch any direction does not influence the on or of state of the low or high beams, but red lights indicator flashes during the open/closed transition of the light housings.
5. low and high beams can be on even while the housings are closed.
All true. As to the red light flashing during the transition of the headlight buckets: the limit switch should cut the light off once both buckets are open.
Also, if you LEFT the hi beams on when you last used the headlights (via the foot switch) they will be on again when you pull the switch fully out.
Other than that, yes, you've got it right...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 10, 2016 at 08:47 AM.
All true. The red light flashing during the transition of the headlight buckets is vague as the limit switch should cut the light on/off pretty sharply once the buckets are moving.
Also, if you LEFT the hi beams on when you last used the headlights (via the foot switch) they will be on again when you pull the switch fully out.
Other than that, yes, you've got it right...
Thanks
One I forgot is: can the high beams be on (foot switch) while the low beams are not?
So anyway it's possible to drive around with all lights on and buckets closed... I believe with my relay mod (see other thread) it should be possible to disable that (when wired to the tan low beam wire, the bucks come up while at the same time powering on the low beams...)
The red light doesn't go off until BOTH buckets are fully open. It should flash anytime the headlight switch is pulled to the second position and both buckets are not fully open, even while buckets are still moving. On a stock configuration, on high all four lights are on. On low, only the two outside lights are on.
One I forgot is: can the high beams be on (foot switch) while the low beams are not?
So anyway it's possible to drive around with all lights on and buckets closed... I believe with my relay mod (see other thread) it should be possible to disable that (when wired to the tan low beam wire, the bucks come up while at the same time powering on the low beams...)
Edited my post above to include 65GGVert's more accurate description of the warning light operation...
And yes, you can drive around until the cows come home with the headlights on and buckets closed -- that's the point of the warning light -- to prevent that...
If you want to eliminate the whole headlight warning vs lights-on vs bucket-synchronization scenarios then the Detroit Speed conversion kit would do it....but you lose originality.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 10, 2016 at 08:41 AM.
All true. As to the red light flashing during the transition of the headlight buckets: the limit switch should cut the light off once both buckets are open...
Just to be sure: the red rectangular 'lights' warning is never ever solid on? The smaller round light below te lights warning is on ONLY when the hi beams are on, and NOT when the Low beams are on?
Just to be sure: the red rectangular 'lights' warning is never ever solid on? The smaller round light below te lights warning is on ONLY when the hi beams are on, and NOT when the Low beams are on?
Yes. But I want to be more careful with my descriptions.
The flashing "LIGHT" indicator MAY be solid for a few seconds until the bulb warms up to start the flashing cycle (its internal to the bulb itself)...
All cars have an idiot light to indicate hi beams are on. That is the small round light below the two flashing warning lights. The two flashing idiot lights use bulbs that have flasher elements in them. So, if you have the correct 257 bulbs in the fittings for the Brake and Lights idiots, they will always flash when active (after a few seconds of warming up).