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67, 427 distributor alignment

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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 07:54 PM
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Default 67, 427 distributor alignment

Ok , I have been working on this all day, just got my L71 reinstalled yesterday, and I have been screwing around with the distributor position all day, thought I had it right, wouldn't start, moved the wired one position counter clockwise and it fired right up (good news lots of oil pressure) but when I set the timing the vacuum advance pot is too far clockwise to be able to install the ignition shielding. I have been moving it one tooth back and forth, changing the plug wire positions, and it is always too far one way or the other. I have searched the archives and you tube, but is there a fool proof way to get this thing positioned properly?
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 08:03 PM
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Is the gear indexed properly to the shaft? There is a divot on the gear that should align to the rotor contact. If it's out 180 degrees, you will always be "one-half" tooth off....
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SupremeDeluxe
Is the gear indexed properly to the shaft? There is a divot on the gear that should align to the rotor contact. If it's out 180 degrees, you will always be "one-half" tooth off....
I was reading about that, I will check it , but I had a mechanic friend of mine help me fire it up a couple of weeks ago and he had it in the exact right spot, can't figure out what I am doing wrong
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Cunningham
I was reading about that, I will check it , but I had a mechanic friend of mine help me fire it up a couple of weeks ago and he had it in the exact right spot, can't figure out what I am doing wrong
The bottom gear on the distributor is installed with a dowel pin. If you knock out the pin and rotate the gear 180 degrees before putting it back together the timing will move 1/2 a tooth. That 1/2 of a tooth can make the difference in fit clearance for the vacuum can and the tin shielding at the correct timing position.


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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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[QUOTE=63 340HP;1591722056]The bottom gear on the distributor is installed with a dowel pin. If you knock out the pin and rotate the gear 180 degrees before putting it back together the timing will move 1/2 a tooth. That 1/2 of a tooth can make the difference in fit clearance for the vacuum can and the tin shielding at the correct timing position.


That is very good info to know.........thank you, I'm sure there are plenty of people who appreciate this information.
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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I think the correct position for the number one plug wire is just clockwise of the window in the cap, this is not where I have it positioned now , but that won't make a difference in the location of the distributor body.
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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From the Assembly Manual>





'
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SupremeDeluxe
Is the gear indexed properly to the shaft? There is a divot on the gear that should align to the rotor contact. If it's out 180 degrees, you will always be "one-half" tooth off....


That'll get you every time...Been There done that. As stated gear not on the shaft in the correct place will cause hair to fall from your head.
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 11:22 PM
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Thanks guys, just came down from the shop, finally got it right, started from scratch, set the number one plug wire at the proper position just to the right of the window on the distributor, set the motor to top dead centre, screwed around with the oil pump drive shaft a bit to get it to drop in, got it fired up. Running a bit rough at first but figured out one of the ground shields was laying on top of the cap, sorted that out. Couldn't figure out why I couldn't see the timing mark with the light, then finally noticed I had inadvertently advanced the timing on the timing light, set it to zero, then set the timing to 4 degrees, and she runs great! Load up tomorrow and I am off to my first NCRS judging meet.
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Cunningham
... and I am off to my first NCRS judging meet.
Hey Dave a couple of hints if you have time. Remember the judging meets are fun and educational! Your photo here is a bit fuzzy but I noticed a couple of things, maybe will help you, maybe not, just thought I'd mention... Wiper blades sh/be pass side ABOVE driver's side and parallel when parked - it appears in your photo driver's side may be above, which is wrong, and could harm the gear mechanism if wiper arms tangle. Dust shield staples are generally semi-flat black (from blackout process) and should be steel (will attract magnet, yes they will check!). It appears your two C-shaped heater hose clips are missing, you have the correct bolt on clip but in front of that is one C-clip and another one is behind that area nearer to the heater box. Maybe you just don't have those on yet. The heater box is attached to the firewall with black phosphate PAL nuts, sh/not be shiny like yours, and box should be natural fiberglass appearance with fiberglass strands visible. I can't tell if yours is painted or not. I can't see if your steering box is black or not - they could be black or natural finish - if black, no yellow dab as was covered by black and if black then coupler should also be black. If natural finish steering box then yellow dab is visible and your coupler is OK. Those are just FYI, all of that is in your 1967 NCRS Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide (6th edition just came out). Also do not forget FULL operations check before you go. Big points lost if lighter doesn't light or pop out, if headlights don't roll, if blinkers don't blink etc etc. Remember headlight warning dash light flashes, e-brake warning light does not. Good luck at the Meet
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Velox
Hey Dave a couple of hints if you have time. Remember the judging meets are fun and educational! Your photo here is a bit fuzzy but I noticed a couple of things, maybe will help you, maybe not, just thought I'd mention... Wiper blades sh/be pass side ABOVE driver's side and parallel when parked - it appears in your photo driver's side may be above, which is wrong, and could harm the gear mechanism if wiper arms tangle. Dust shield staples are generally semi-flat black (from blackout process) and should be steel (will attract magnet, yes they will check!). It appears your two C-shaped heater hose clips are missing, you have the correct bolt on clip but in front of that is one C-clip and another one is behind that area nearer to the heater box. Maybe you just don't have those on yet. The heater box is attached to the firewall with black phosphate PAL nuts, sh/not be shiny like yours, and box should be natural fiberglass appearance with fiberglass strands visible. I can't tell if yours is painted or not. I can't see if your steering box is black or not - they could be black or natural finish - if black, no yellow dab as was covered by black and if black then coupler should also be black. If natural finish steering box then yellow dab is visible and your coupler is OK. Those are just FYI, all of that is in your 1967 NCRS Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide (6th edition just came out). Also do not forget FULL operations check before you go. Big points lost if lighter doesn't light or pop out, if headlights don't roll, if blinkers don't blink etc etc. Remember headlight warning dash light flashes, e-brake warning light does not. Good luck at the Meet
Thanks a lot Don, I will fix those things today, I didn't think the wipers would work that way, I will have to have a look. I know they are supposed to have a brushed finish, but the plating shop polished them by accident, and they looked so good I decided to leave them. I do have the other clips for the heater hoses, and will install them as well, the car is mostly correct, but there are a few things it will lose points on, I just thought it would be fun to get it judged to see where I am at.

Last edited by Dave Cunningham; Mar 8, 2016 at 11:13 AM.
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