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advice on engine oil

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Old 03-20-2016, 06:47 PM
  #21  
Godholio
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Originally Posted by 427435
Both the Mobil 15w-50 and their 5w-40 Turbo Diesel oil have plenty of zinc for flat tappet cams.

Get an oil sample kit from Blackstone (free) and take a sample. About $35 for a test including TBN. Then you can stop guessing about the condition of your engine.
I did this with a fresh sample of the Mobil. I'll link the results:
https://i.imgur.com/3Hn2hex.jpg
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bluzrocker
my grease gun took a sh*#...and looks like my (end of grease gun nipple is pretty big)....is there a smaller fitting to get INTO THE 1/2 SHAFTS to apply some grease?? I have seen some discharge nipples smaller around and sort of long and pencil shapped....any ones thought on that?
Years ago when I still ran grease-able ujoints I ground the sides of a grease gun nozzle to fit. Rotate the shafts till you get the widest opening. Worked very well.
Of course now I run the solids cuz I got tired of breaking the weaker greasables. If I ever have the shafts out I check the non greasables and they don't need greasing.

Last edited by 00fxd; 03-21-2016 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:29 PM
  #23  
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Default u joints

superb reply....I asked if rotating the shafts would open up the joint to the widest point....but YOU are the one who has done it and willing to share it....as I have learned to ask the forum guys... before you start something ....even if its a dumb question...txs



Originally Posted by 00fxd
Years ago when I still ran grease-able ujoints I ground the sides of a grease gun nozzle to fit. Rotate the shafts till you get the widest opening. Worked very well.
Of coarse now I run the solids cuz I got tired of breaking the weaker greasables. If I ever have the shafts out I check the non greasables and they don't need greasing.
Old 03-21-2016, 07:21 PM
  #24  
KENS78SILVERANNIV
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Why are you guys constantly trying to re-invent the wheel? These cars rolled out of the factory 50 years ago with 30W.

I buy the cheapest, best quality 10W-30 out there... change it every 3000 miles and have never had a single problem.

Drive it... don't over-think it.
Old 03-21-2016, 08:07 PM
  #25  
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Ken - normally I'm with you on the "don't overthink it".. but realize that 10W-30 is not the same as it used to be. Stuff (zinc and phosphor) have been been lowered/removed because modern engines don't need it. Lots of old threads to search on this.
Old 03-21-2016, 09:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by KENS78SILVERANNIV
Why are you guys constantly trying to re-invent the wheel? These cars rolled out of the factory 50 years ago with 30W.

I buy the cheapest, best quality 10W-30 out there... change it every 3000 miles and have never had a single problem.

Drive it... don't over-think it.

Not sure I understand the correlation between "cheapest" and "best quality"............ ???
Old 03-21-2016, 11:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tuxnharley
Not sure I understand the correlation between "cheapest" and "best quality"............ ???
Simple math Tux... 1 qt. of Pennzoil 10W30 at Walmart = 3.99
1 qt. of Pennzoil 10W30 at O'reillys = 5.49

C'mon man.
Old 03-22-2016, 12:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by KENS78SILVERANNIV
Simple math Tux... 1 qt. of Pennzoil 10W30 at Walmart = 3.99
1 qt. of Pennzoil 10W30 at O'reillys = 5.49

C'mon man.
Ah - least expensive source of the same item, not the cheapest oil. Not even simple math, just common sense!

Old 05-15-2024, 11:15 AM
  #29  
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I have read everyone's responses on this thread and other threads about engine oil plus read @SWCDuke 's informative article. Though there is some variety in the opinions on best engine oil, most people seem to go with 15W40 viscosity. The info I can't find anywhere is why are so many people going with 15W40 even though GM originally recommended 10W30 for our C2 engines? Is it a matter of convenience because it is difficult to get 10W30 with the CJ-4/CI-4 service category, or is 15W40 now better than 10W30 for some reason beyond the service category designation? Thanks to anyone who can clarify regarding this aspect.
Old 05-15-2024, 11:38 AM
  #30  
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10-30 was common in the 60s. 15-40 is common now.. We use 15-40 because it's what's out there.
The label is different and the price has gone up, but this is still the stuff to use.

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Old 05-15-2024, 12:21 PM
  #31  
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Thank you, @65hihp . I bought some yesterday, and this question re-emerged in my mind since the current labeling says "Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil. Low Emission Diesel.", which got me thinking why everyone is recommending this. It seems to be the thing, though!

Just for additional thread reference, here is the current label (currently priced at $11.67 per gallon):

Walmart SuperTech 15W-40 engine oil
Old 05-15-2024, 12:51 PM
  #32  
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Any good 10-30 regular oil or 10-40 mid summer. Then add 1 bottle of Zdd at every oil change.

It works as my 1980 truck has over 400k miles on it and runs great, with no rebuilds. Also run it in my 67, 71, 72, 85( worked) , but not the C8.

Keep an eye on diesel oil as they have been dropping the additives due to DEF.


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