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In the process of converting the single master cylinder over to a dual outlet master cylinder.
After 3 attempts (two tries with hand operated vacuum pump, one try pump brake pedal method) to bleed the lines of air bubbles, for whatever reason the brake pedal continues to remain spongey.
The master cylinder is a 7/8" bore dual outlet disc/drum unit. It was bench bled in place on the firewall after the two new brake lines were fabbed up to accommodate the installation. A 10# residual pressure installed on the line that feeds the rear brakes. .. All new wheel cylinders, flex hoses, and new brake shoes were installed. All brake line fitting connections leak free.
Not sure what to try next. Perhaps Motive pressure bleeder? .. All ideas welcome. Thanks.
John
I have become a big fan of speed bleeder screws. They have a small check valve in them to facilitate bleeding. I loosen them about 1/4 turn, put a hose on them to the bleeder fluid jar and then pump the brake pedal slowly until I get a clear stream and then snug the bleeder tight. They have a sealer compound on them so no air gets back in the lines. It's a one-man operation. I have vacuum bleeders and pressure bleeders, and I've tried gravity bleeding - but these things have by far worked the best for me. It seems like no matter what method I try with standard bleed screws, air always gets back in the lines around the screw threads - except with the old 2-person, press the pedal, crack the screw, tighten the screw, release the pedal method.
I recently replaced all the brake lines on a Plymouth I own and installed speed bleeders while I had it apart. I had a firm pedal after the first round of all 4 wheels with minimal effort and mess. I have them on 2 cars now (but not the Vette yet) and I'm sold. If interested they are sold by Dorman and can be picked up or ordered in most local auto parts stores.
The master cylinder is a 7/8" bore dual outlet disc/drum unit. It was bench bled in place on the firewall after the two new brake lines were fabbed up to accommodate the installation.
John
Is the MC level in the installed position or is the front of it tipped up in the air?
If the rear drum brakes aren't adjusted up, that can give the sensation of a spongy pedal.
Often with new pads or shoes the pedal will feel spongy until a few miles are on the linings until they are seated properly. I just put a caliper on my diesel pickup last Friday and it was spongy until I drove it a mile or 2.
I have become a big fan of speed bleeder screws. They have a small check valve in them to facilitate bleeding. I loosen them about 1/4 turn, put a hose on them to the bleeder fluid jar and then pump the brake pedal slowly until I get a clear stream and then snug the bleeder tight. They have a sealer compound on them so no air gets back in the lines. It's a one-man operation. I have vacuum bleeders and pressure bleeders, and I've tried gravity bleeding - but these things have by far worked the best for me. It seems like no matter what method I try with standard bleed screws, air always gets back in the lines around the screw threads - except with the old 2-person, press the pedal, crack the screw, tighten the screw, release the pedal method.
I recently replaced all the brake lines on a Plymouth I own and installed speed bleeders while I had it apart. I had a firm pedal after the first round of all 4 wheels with minimal effort and mess. I have them on 2 cars now (but not the Vette yet) and I'm sold. If interested they are sold by Dorman and can be picked up or ordered in most local auto parts stores.
I can send my wife over...
She pumped the pedal for 15 minutes as I went from wheel to wheel trying to get air air out. What the hell? no luck! I calmly asked which pedal she was pushing?
Good news is there is no air in the clutch pedal.
I can send my wife over...
She pumped the pedal for 15 minutes as I went from wheel to wheel trying to get air air out. What the hell? no luck! I calmly asked which pedal she was pushing?
Good news is there is no air in the clutch pedal.
Now that's funny
But, my wife and daughter were both taught to drive manual transmission by me eons ago - guess it pays to do it
I tried everything to bleed my 57 Vett after I had installed new disks on the front, spongy every time. I took the wheel off for some reason and there , as plain as the nose on my face was a second bleeder hidden by the wheel for the other piston!
I can send my wife over...
She pumped the pedal for 15 minutes as I went from wheel to wheel trying to get air air out. What the hell? no luck! I calmly asked which pedal she was pushing?
Good news is there is no air in the clutch pedal.
That's funny. I can easily see that happening.
Last edited by DansYellow66; Apr 15, 2016 at 01:50 PM.
The brake shoes were adjusted tight enough for the drums to slip over. The car was also backed up a number of times and driven lightly to help seat the new linings.
Speed bleeders sounds good. Gonna give those a go. The car is level up on jack stands. Never had this kind of trouble before bleeding brakes. .. Thanks, guys.
John
Speed bleeders sounds good. Gonna give those a go.Thanks, guys.
John
I bought some speed bleeders from a local parts store and 2 of them would not seal properly and caused more harm than good.
The only ones that I found to be of quality are the ones packaged by Russell Performance.
Vette brakes sells them.
I bought some speed bleeders from a local parts store and 2 of them would not seal properly and caused more harm than good.
The only ones that I found to be of quality are the ones packaged by Russell Performance.
Vette brakes sells them.
I did find that there were speed bleeders on the market with factory thread sealer applied and speed bleeders without sealer. I've only used the ones with thread sealer on them and haven't had problems so far. They only need to be cracked a small amount when bleeding so the sealer should last through quite a bit of use. I think I would avoid any that don't have sealer on the threads as they may leak past the threads as bad as many standard bleeding screws.
If you're referring to this comment, the question was, "is the MC level when you did the bench bleed." Not the car level.
Just checking.
I agree. The Corvette dual master cylinder is very difficult to bleed on the car. I ended up taking mine off and bench-bleeding it as recommended by several experienced members. That did the trick.
In theory you could accomplish the same thing by lifting the rear of the car to make the MC level. However, you must be sure that you are pushing the piston all the way to the end of its travel.
The master cylinder was level when bench bled on the car. Dorman brand speed bleeders with the thread sealant replaced the standard type bleeders.
After another go round bleeding the lines with speed bleeders installed brake pedal feel is much improved. Still a bit of sponginess feel on the pedal, though. ..
Question on the Motive bleeder:
Is it better to fab up your own master cylinder block off plate and use C-clamps to hold the plate in place rather than go with the block off plate and chain hold downs that Motive offers?
John
The master cylinder was level when bench bled on the car. Dorman brand speed bleeders with the thread sealant replaced the standard type bleeders.
After another go round bleeding the lines with speed bleeders installed brake pedal feel is much improved. Still a bit of sponginess feel on the pedal, though. ..
Question on the Motive bleeder:
Is it better to fab up your own master cylinder block off plate and use C-clamps to hold the plate in place rather than go with the block off plate and chain hold downs that Motive offers?
John
It is almost impossible to get the bleeder block to seal using the chains provided with the Motive kit. Somewhere JohnZ posted a photo showing a single giant C-clamp holding the bleeder block on. I think he placed a block of wood over the Motive bleeder block to spread the C-clamp force. I had to go buy a C-clamp that was large enough to span the distance from the bottom of the MC to the top of the wood block, but the final setup worked pretty well.
These days I just use an old MC cap with a hose fitting for adding about 5 psi air pressure (not brake fluid). I fill the MC and then bleed until I think it's time to refill. The trick is to never let the MC run dry or you get to start over. So far I've never missed.
The reason I went this way is that it eliminated the problem of sealing the Motive bleeder block to the MC, and it reduced the mess that I always managed to make when bleeding was done and I had to remove the Motive bleeder block.