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Rear harness replacement

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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 11:13 AM
  #1  
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Default Rear harness replacement

I am just finishing up installing a new dash harness which was fairly streight forward, Next Stop is the tail lights.
The rear looks like its more work, where did you start to feed the harness from :
1 from the cockpit
2 or from the rear passenger side ????

any tricks of the trade you can pass along would be apperciated.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 02:12 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (propwash)

I would like to know as well. I hope to replace mine along with the carpeting in my 65 this fall.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 02:38 PM
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (propwash)

I think the hardest part was the grommet where the wiring passes thru the body. too long ago , don't remember it being difficult. Just removing parts to get in there,sill plate,kick panel,rr 1/4 trim,spare tire carrier,maybe the left muffler.
the grommet may determine which end to start at?

I think its easy compared to the dash. rod
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 03:38 PM
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (yooperod)

First off, when I did mine ('63 coupe), it was part of a complete restoration. So, I did not have the bumpers, rear valance or spare tire in yet. I think that made it 100 times easier than what you will be going through. Also, I have side-pipes so the exhaust was not in the way either.

I fed the new harness from the outside to the inside. This way, I just had to route one big connector in rather than a bunch of smaller connectors out.

The grommet on the rear wall had a slit in it so, I put it on after I routed and completely connected the harness. I want to ensure it had enough slack in it on both sides.

The only thing I think that you need to be very careful with is ensure that the ground lugs that connect to the license plate and the tail lights are tight and good. I used a meter to measure the connections. It should be a dead short! (I assume that you new that!)

Before connecting the big connector that goes under the dash, I jury-rigged it to a battery and tested every light, one at a time. This was very easy to do and ensured me that the grounds and everything in the back was connected properly prior to connecting it to the rest of the circuit in the car.

Good luck,

Gary

P.S. I am going to be out in Portland next week for a few days, is the weather still holding up or are you into the raining season now?




[Modified by GaryC, 1:40 PM 9/5/2002]
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 05:28 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (GaryC)

Gary and guys
Thanks for the info.
I thought that starting fron the right back would be the best way, you confirmed it. I guess I don't understand how to check each light individually but the dead ground means grounding to the basels right.
I split my fire wall grommet and I plan on doing the same to the back.

The WX men have been calling for thunder storms and rain everyday since monday but typical WX reporters from Oregon they were wrong its been sunny and 70 's everyday and I think it will continue through next week why do I know that
because my car is down till next week at least. :smash:
Thanks
Steve
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 03:55 PM
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (propwash)

Steve,

You are correct about the ground.

I am not sure if you care to do this but, here is how to test it with a battery: First off, get the wiring diagram and locate the connector for under the dash for the rear harness. I will use the symbols for the wires to discuss the connections. The B/W is common (ground). Connect it to the negative of the battery. Connect one of the following at a time to the positive of the battery: (Have this connector disconnected from the connector that is under the dash.

B = all four running lights and licence plate light should light.
V = Both right blinker lights should light (not blinking)
P = Both left blinker lights should light (not blinking)

Do not connect the battery to the LG or BRN wires. These are for the fuel gage. Don't forget to connect these wires to the fuel tank.

Good luck,

GaryC


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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 10:29 AM
  #7  
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From: Portland Or
Default Re: Rear harness replacement (GaryC)

Gary
Thanks thats great information. I ran the rear harness yesterday and to my amazement you have to run it front to back , the main plug in is too big to fit through the grommet hole so that alone makes things a little stickey trying to feed all the wires to the back and along the back including the 4 rubber dust covers. Funny thing I want to start buttoning some of these projects up but they all seem to tie into each other I now have to take the inside heater box out to put in the fire wall insulation and I can't hook up the cluster cause I need the room to hook the 2 pieces of insulation together THE HARDEST job so far and the one that I find impossible to do is installing the rubber grommets through the insulation and fire wall :mad :mad I have got 1 installed and ruined 3 .. they just wont go through all the way.
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 10:58 AM
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From: da up
Default Re: Rear harness replacement (propwash)

I had a lot of problems with those also. used a 1/8" punch and pushed thru the hole in them so they would strech out some.had to be careful not to poke a hole in them. PITA rod
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 11:15 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: Rear harness replacement (yooperod)

I think that my problem is the tool that Pacific Corvette is letting me use is too big in the diameter making it impossible to push the rubber and the tool through the fire wall I may go home and cut off a smaller diameter screw driver what dou you think.
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 10:45 AM
  #10  
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From: Portland Or
Default Re: Rear harness replacement (propwash)

I finished the rear harness. It wasn't that bad but if your thinking about doing it be ready to lay new carpet also. I don't think I could have salvaged the carpetting even if I wanted ( which i didn't). The large body gromet was not the hardest part, the reverse light on the passenger side was, it took about 6 try's and an hour for that one light. the nut would not bite on the stud I finally had to take it off and reset the pattern of the screw of the nut to get it to tighten on the stud ( sounds like my 4th girlfriend ) oh well if the job was easy this would not be a very interesting hobby.
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