SEM Trim Black
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
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From: Miami, FL
SEM Trim Black
I must be doing something wrong. I see a lot of good reviews for this paint but I have trouble laying it down. The Krylon semi flat industrial is so much easier for me. The SEM seems to fish eye unless I spit the paint out so lightly it leaving droplets which I have to do about 10 or more times to get coverage. one saving grace is it allows to be resprayed every few minutes. But I find it very difficult to work with.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Lexington,NC,USA
C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Not sure if this is the same paint as what you used, but I used SEM Hot Rod Black on the trim on my '59. This is a two component (hardener), single stage applied with an HPLV gun and it lays down fine. Looks very similar to Krylon 1613.
Charles
Charles
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Central Arkansas
I like the old Krylon lacquer better too - I think it lays down smoother. But, I've not had that exact problem with SEM. Fish eyes are usually a contamination issue. Are you wiping the part down with something like Prep Sol first? Sometimes a couple very light, incomplete coats that are allowed to dry, will seal over light contamination and allow a bit heavier coat to be applied. Sometimes.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
I like the old Krylon lacquer better too - I think it lays down smoother. But, I've not had that exact problem with SEM. Fish eyes are usually a contamination issue. Are you wiping the part down with something like Prep Sol first? Sometimes a couple very light, incomplete coats that are allowed to dry, will seal over light contamination and allow a bit heavier coat to be applied. Sometimes.
It does seem to cover over as long as I limit to spritzing the many coats. As soon as I try to get a good wet cover it returns.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Miami, FL
Nice bumper! I'm using the rattle can product.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Temecula CA
I've used SEM Trim Black for years and never experienced any fish eyes.
If you have an autobody supply store close by, get yourself some wax & silicone remover. Good stuff to have on hand if you do much painting.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Miami, FL
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Wilton Ca.
You might try scuffing with a fine to medium grade Scotch Bright pad prior to, or even with the lacquer thinner. That should help with getting rid of any contaminants and give the paint a better surface to stick to as well.
Gary
Gary
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Reno Nv
Definitely behaves like you have surface contamination -- possibly silicone or WD-40 residue.
I've used SEM Trim Black for years and never experienced any fish eyes.
If you have an autobody supply store close by, get yourself some wax & silicone remover. Good stuff to have on hand if you do much painting.
I've used SEM Trim Black for years and never experienced any fish eyes.
If you have an autobody supply store close by, get yourself some wax & silicone remover. Good stuff to have on hand if you do much painting.
I almost never use primer under it.
And never had to respray due to a problem.
I agree with Mike, always use a good prep sol like PPG.
SEM on my 67, 2 coats.
Melting Slicks
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From: cooper city florida
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From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Miami, FL
OK, So here is my latest attempt. I picked up some Prep Sol spray, and SEM etching primer in a rattle can. Hit it with the spray, wiped with a paper towel, hit it with the primer, saw some fish eye, cleaned the area again, lightly sanding with 220 grit, prep sol again, etching primer again, then light coats of the SEM Trim Black. I'm not too impressed with the results. all the tiny light spots are where the top coat is not covering and I suspect would have been fish-eye without the primer.
Last edited by gccch; May 18, 2016 at 10:19 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,115
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From: Wilton Ca.
OK, So here is my latest attempt. I picked up some Prep Sol spray, and SEM etching primer in a rattle can. Hit it with the spray, wiped with a paper towel, hit it with the primer, saw some fish eye, cleaned the area again, lightly sanding with 220 grit, prep sol again, etching primer again, then light coats of the SEM Trim Black. I'm not too impressed with the results. all the tiny light spots are where the top coat is not covering and I suspect would have been fish-eye without the primer.
I lay down a very thick coat of paint and, as soon as the fish eyes appear I use a small brush and basically "brush them out". I then let the paint dry, (if it's metal and small enough I bake it @ about 200° for 20-30 minutes to speed up the process) then sand the brushed areas (using 400-600, just enough to smooth them out but not enough to break through the paint) then re-spray the whole piece again. You may need to do this a couple or more times to get them all but each time there should be a lot less. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; May 18, 2016 at 11:27 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: NEW YORK
Has to be a contaminent.
If the metal is pourous like cast alum or pot metal it can be residing below the surface.
Prior to painting bare metal parts I scrub the target surfaces with extra fine bronze wool and acetone.
Before spraying blow off with compressed air and wipe areas to be painted with a tack cloth.
If the metal is pourous like cast alum or pot metal it can be residing below the surface.
Prior to painting bare metal parts I scrub the target surfaces with extra fine bronze wool and acetone.
Before spraying blow off with compressed air and wipe areas to be painted with a tack cloth.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,077
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From: Reno Nv
